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I have: 83 F150, I6 w/DSII
I swapped out clusters so I could have the factory tach (either 83 or 84 3/4 ton donor)
----now the oil gauge(formerly light) and temp gauge don't work, the temp. did before.
Gas gauge works
---charging system is a work in progress (but not working yet), I'm keeping Batt. light (added resistor at back of cluster, Lt grn/red + red/Lt.grn) and am replacing wiring from the alternator.
Oil gauge needs the proper sending unit to function, temp gauge may just be bad, did you try using your old one? Also did you splice in the new wiring or use the new connector and repin it? As for the charging system, when I put a tach cluster in my original idiot light truck, a previous ingenious idea solved that issue, though most people probably wouldn't take that route.
I re-pinned, and checked pin placement about 100x's so I cant see the plug being the problem. But then again, I do pick sticks for a living and fiddle with the truck cause dad doesn't pay enough for a real mechanic. lmao
What does the oil pressure sender look like for the gauge? We have extra/old parts in the shop.
The temp worked fine before, so I don't see it going bad like that.
Do you have a meter to measure voltage with? If not, then purchase one.
Power comes from the ignition switch into the dash voltage regulator 9which reduces current to ~5.5V).
From the regulator, power is distributed to the three gauges...
I only remember the Temp & Oil Pressure wires; one is red/white-stripe and the other white/red-stripe but I forget which is which.
From the gauges, power then leads to the sending units on the engines (which ground the electrical circuits); those sending units vary the resistance to ground, thereby resulting in varying gauge readings.
(IIRC the gas gauge uses a yellow/white wire but I'm not at all positive on that so don't take my word on it.)
So, get yourself a meter and do some diagnosis.... turn the ignition on (don't start the engine) and test for power at the oil pressure and temp senders, you should have ~5.5V.
Seeing as how you changed the cluster wiring, there's a 99.98% something is wrong there and is causing your symptoms... I would trace the copper traces on the printed circuit board to make sure the correct wires are connecting to the correct places, my guess is they're NOT but this is assuming the JY cluster you have is in working condition.
Not to highjack the topic, but I saw someone mention swaping the tach to the old gauge housing.
Is this even possible? I saw a reference on either LMC or NPD that was stating that the gauge housing itself that the gauges mount to are specific and you cant mount a tach in an orignal housing that has no tach. I would like to think this is incorrect as I am looking for just the tach to install in mine as I can get a tach circuit board from LMC.
Not to highjack the topic, but I saw someone mention swaping the tach to the old gauge housing.
Is this even possible? I saw a reference on either LMC or NPD that was stating that the gauge housing itself that the gauges mount to are specific and you cant mount a tach in an orignal housing that has no tach. I would like to think this is incorrect as I am looking for just the tach to install in mine as I can get a tach circuit board from LMC.
It depends.
Clusters with idiot lights instead of gauges, you absolutely cannot mount a tach in a cluster not designed for one.
Clusters with gauges... if the OE configuration didn't include a tach, one can be added pretty easily; ideally, one would replace the printed circuit on the back with one designed for use with a tach, but a tach can be hardwired in so it's not strictly necessary.
Clusters with idiot lights instead of gauges, you absolutely cannot mount a tach in a cluster not designed for one.
Clusters with gauges... if the OE configuration didn't include a tach, one can be added pretty easily; ideally, one would replace the printed circuit on the back with one designed for use with a tach, but a tach can be hardwired in so it's not strictly necessary.
Mine has gauges, its just currently has the cover plate with the giant "plus" in the middle of it. I can get the printed circuit board for a 1982 with or without tach from LMC, just wasnt sure if the cover plate could be unbolted and a tach installed in its place. I really would like to get rid of the column mounted tach.
I pick up spare clusters when I can, of all types, and some have dead gauges. I combine them sometimes to make one good cluster. The switch for the oil light screws into the block, it's a small round thing with a threaded post sticking out. The proper sender is the same concept, it's just bigger and bulbous looking.
I'll go ahead and mention my fix for the charging circuit: once upon a time when my original alternator went out, I "borrowed" one from my Wagoneer, standard GM style Delco-Remy. I used a hybrid one-wire method, it self-excites but I also ran one of the original wires (red plug) to the stator terminal so my remote idiot light still worked, and the resistor is not needed in my case. As for the cluster, I installed a digital gauge in its place. There are options.
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