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That sounds interesting. Is this tool available to (and affordable by) mere mortals like us? I'd be curious just to see the procedure on its use. I wonder if this functionality could be programmed into AE, something like - shim the sensor, turn the engine by hand, record the resistance/signal as the reluctor notches pass the sensor, rinse, repeat...
Really interesting, let us know more about this. OK?
Well I pulled out the CPS and is very similar like the new Black one (Ford), I took some measurements and was the same, even has the same number. I post some pics for you, you can see the o-ring almost melted in the old CPS and I tried to messure the AIR GAP and its very difficult, but I get about 0.30 in. I didnt find any shim; changed the bolt and the install was very easy, I used vaseline in the o-ring and some dielectric grease in the seal of the connector not in the pins. I started the truck normally if wanted to notice something different, it seems that its a little quieter, really IDK.
That sounds interesting. Is this tool available to (and affordable by) mere mortals like us? I'd be curious just to see the procedure on its use. I wonder if this functionality could be programmed into AE, something like - shim the sensor, turn the engine by hand, record the resistance/signal as the reluctor notches pass the sensor, rinse, repeat...
I've yet to be able to find the tool for purchase, at a reasonable price. Was around $700 IIRC.
OTCZTSE4414 is the part number.
Basically ultimate air gap(distance between sensor and cam/timing wheel) is .025, with numbers up to .030 being in the ok range.
Based upon my knowledge of the tool it is designed to facilitate run out conditions of the cam wheel, which lead to running problems.
I am convinced that this tool along with the applicable shim kits would correct some of the weird symptoms that people are talking about switching back and forth between CPS's. Some talk about stronger magnets and such in the CPS/CMP Sensor, but I believe some sensors are longer/shorter with the idea that they can be swapped out as endplay of the cam wheel increases( to a limit .020 IIRC) , but still maintaining factory spec air gap.
That's all I got on that tool though, and don't know how cps part number relates to necessary shims, or which part number to get to decrease air gap.
I sent reps to Glove for the info, but I agree with the above comments. Just you have to have the correct gauge, because the space there is tight with the pulley, belt and fan.
BTW, that info was in the link that Jim (Hussler) post above IIRC.
Sorry to drag up an old thread, but it's better than starting another one for the same thing. I was going through some pictures of what I was doing on my truck on my phone and came across a picture of a CPS. It got me thinking, so I watched a no-start video I took before I left.
And here I am.
I ordered a grey one ! It said IH, so I didn't think anything of it at the time. It came with 2 copper shims, not knowing what they were for I put them in my spare parts bin. I'm really kicking myself in the butt for this one. This could seriously be the reason why so many months have been wasted because I failed to see the obvious until now.