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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Removing windshield trim - almost impossible. Any tips?

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Old May 10, 2014 | 01:50 PM
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Removing windshield trim - almost impossible. Any tips?

I need to replace my '82 windshield and therefore need to remove the bright trim. I am having a tough time getting it off. I have bought/tried about every known windshield-trim removal tool (except the one the service manual calls for - which is no longer available), and for the life of me I can't get it to budge.
I had some of it off once before a couple of years ago (trying to fix a leak), and it was even tough to reinstall.

Any tricks or tips on getting off the trim without breaking/bending it?.

Thanks
 

Last edited by CountryBumkin; May 10, 2014 at 02:52 PM. Reason: Typo in Subject line
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Old May 10, 2014 | 06:34 PM
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From what I understand, there are two types of clips. One for the bottom and one for the sides/tops. I've only done the bottom so I'll comment on that.

It's really as easy as just prying it apart. Just make sure you put your pry bar right on top of/next to the clips when you pry and you might have to use a LOT of pressure.

I used the Harbor Freight trim removal tools (around $8 iirc).



Base




Trim

 
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Old May 10, 2014 | 08:34 PM
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I take a wide stiff putty knife and pry on the sides. Just observe what's happening when you pry, you will find as it bends up you can tell where the clips are, so make sure to pry at the clip, not inbetween the clips. You will also find the clips may pull out of the pins on the cab and stay in the trim. Doesn't seem to cause any problems, though you might have to tweak the clips back into shape.

I then try to pry and slide the top and bottom trim off.
 
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Old May 11, 2014 | 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by DoesItReallyMatter?
From what I understand, there are two types of clips. One for the bottom and one for the sides/tops. I've only done the bottom so I'll comment on that.
Parts catalog pic: Clips are identified/located by circled letters.

AC = D1AZ-6542413-A .. W/S Moulding Retainer Clip.

MN = E1DZ-6629100-A .. W/S Moulding Retainer Clip.
 
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Old May 11, 2014 | 07:43 AM
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What the HELL would we do without Bill ?????????????????
 
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Old May 11, 2014 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by DoesItReallyMatter?

The last time I had the lower trim piece off - the black clip(s) shown above broke, they can't be bought. You have to get the entire trim piece (if you can find one) as the black piece does not have a part number.
I assumed I was using too much force. maybe that's just the way you have to do it.
 
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Old May 11, 2014 | 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by CountryBumkin
The last time I had the lower trim piece off - the black clip(s) shown above broke, they can't be bought.
Sure they can, how many would you like?
See parts catalog pic in post 4.

E1DZ-6629100-A .. W/S Moulding Clip-Lower / Identified as MN in parts catalog pic / Obsolete

GREENWAY FORD in Orlando FL has 4 = 407-249-3270.

AUTO NATION FORD in Bradenton FL has 4 = 941-708-4506.

GUS MACHADO FORD in Hialeah FL has 4 = 305-822-8338.

There are another 300+ scattered across the US at FoMoCo dealers, obsolete parts vendors.
 
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Old May 12, 2014 | 05:14 AM
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The clip you can buy is the "rusty metal clip" shown in the second post. You can't get the just the "black plastic clip" by itself. You have to buy the entire molding piece. I have a parts book. The plastic piece has no part number.

At this point I have the lower trim and side trim removed. Nothing broke.

Now I have to remove my Lind Sunvisor and upper trim. Then I can call the windshield replacement company to come out with a new windshield.

I may try to remove the windshield myself as there is some rust along the lower edge and I can't do a good repair job with the windshield in place. If I can't get it out using a razor knife, I'll need to wait until the new windshield is n place then do the repair.
 
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Old May 12, 2014 | 11:58 AM
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When I did mine the caulk/adhesive holding it in place was so brittle and dry that I was able to push the windshield out from the inside of the truck. The only thing holding the windshield in place was the molding... SMH
 
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Old May 13, 2014 | 03:27 PM
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CountryBumpkin, try using a thin guitar string or fishing line. Run one end of it thru the urethane and under the windshield. Once there, wrap a couple of sticks with the ends to make handles. Then saw back and forth to cut the urethane and it will release the windshield.
 
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Old May 13, 2014 | 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by KC Ray
CountryBumpkin, try using a thin guitar string or fishing line. Run one end of it thru the urethane and under the windshield. Once there, wrap a couple of sticks with the ends to make handles. Then saw back and forth to cut the urethane and it will release the windshield.
I've heard that using piano wire will do the same. I'm not sure how easily the fishing line will work as the urethane is pretty stiff. I needed a wire brush on my angle grinder to clean out the channels.
 
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Old May 13, 2014 | 08:26 PM
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This is the RIGHT tool to take the trim off. But unless YOIU are installing the windshield(WHY) then let the glass guy do his job for the $250 he is charging you. BTW he also has access to the clips(aftermarket). If you are SMART, you will let him remove the window and let him leave. then you can fix the rust. Otherwise it WILL be back, I guarantee it. Then after you fix the rust, have him install the new window
K-D Tools 2038 and it is STILL AVAILABLE
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/kd...FXIF7AodpyoAQA
 
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Old May 13, 2014 | 08:51 PM
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I agree with Brad. If they're going to charge full price then let them do the work. Mine was easy because it was already out and I cleaned the channel but if it's already in and you're having a hard time getting the trim off they'll have the skill to take the trim off and get the window out properly.
 
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Old May 15, 2014 | 05:13 AM
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I agree having the Glass company remove the windshield then come back is the best way to go. I'm sure there will be an addtional charge to have him come back (I'm in a rural area) but I think it is the smart choice.

Is there any value in me cleaning the channels or should I just leave that to the glass guy?
I only need to make repairs along the bottom edge.
 
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Old May 15, 2014 | 08:17 AM
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Cleaning the channel isn't difficult. I just put a wire wheel on my angle grinder and went to town. That way I could see if there was anything else I needed to repair before the glass was put back in. It's messy so you may want to be outside when you do it.
 
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