Clutch Adjustment
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Clutch Adjustment
I replaced the motor in my 1960 F-350 and put a new clutch, pressure plate & throw out bearing in at the same time. It's a 292 V8. I have very little clutch pedal and mostly all free travil. It does not grind going into gears and does not slip but I know this is not correct so my question is how do I get more pedal and is the only adjustment on the rod at the fork? Do I adjust it longer or shorter? I think I had a bit more pedal with the wore out disk but not much and nothing was touched in the adjustments. Thanks for any help anyone can provide!
Carl E.
Carl E.
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From: tujunga, calif
You will need to make it longer, run the adjusting nut up towards the fork until you have appox 1/8" between the nut and fork with the spring removed, then attach the spring. Then check the pedal freeplay and adjust as necessary. I like about 1" to 1 1/2" at the pedal myself.
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Jim,
I adjusted the nut back all most the hole way and then had to bring it forward as I had no clutch. Once I got it to go in gear I left it alone but I still have a bunch of free travil in the pedal. Now what? I think my slave cylinder developed a leak as well? I took it off to remove the shaft and clen it up so the nuts would turn. It now has a little fluid dripping from the boot so I may need to replace that soon?
Ware are you located? I like your panel truck! I use to have one that someone pu a 68 Pontiac 400 ci motor in and 400 turbo transmission. The truck was a factory automatic and the markings on the column match up to the Pontiac transmission pattern perfectly. I would like to find another panel but they are hard to come by not all chopped up and modified. I'd like something as close to all original as I can get.
Carl E.
I adjusted the nut back all most the hole way and then had to bring it forward as I had no clutch. Once I got it to go in gear I left it alone but I still have a bunch of free travil in the pedal. Now what? I think my slave cylinder developed a leak as well? I took it off to remove the shaft and clen it up so the nuts would turn. It now has a little fluid dripping from the boot so I may need to replace that soon?
Ware are you located? I like your panel truck! I use to have one that someone pu a 68 Pontiac 400 ci motor in and 400 turbo transmission. The truck was a factory automatic and the markings on the column match up to the Pontiac transmission pattern perfectly. I would like to find another panel but they are hard to come by not all chopped up and modified. I'd like something as close to all original as I can get.
Carl E.
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From: tujunga, calif
Carl,
Did you push the rod and piston all the way back before making the adjustment? I'm sorry if I forgot to tell you that, I just do these things automatically and assume people know how the hydraulics work. If it's leaking it should be replaced or rebuilt.
I'm in S. California and my panel is about 90% original.
Jim
Did you push the rod and piston all the way back before making the adjustment? I'm sorry if I forgot to tell you that, I just do these things automatically and assume people know how the hydraulics work. If it's leaking it should be replaced or rebuilt.
I'm in S. California and my panel is about 90% original.
Jim
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No Jim, I did not press the clutch in before working on it. I muddled around trying to get the rod out and finally took the slave cylinder off to get the rod out to clean up the threads and get the nuts loose. I had it cocked in there and don't know if I scored the cylinder? I never had to mess with a hydrolic clutch in all my years of trucks with them so it's a learning curve for me. I know it must work like a break cylinder but the pedal travil adjustment is ware I'm totaly lost?
I'm in Carlisle, PA. Wish we were closer I'd like to see that panel up close!
Carl E.
I'm in Carlisle, PA. Wish we were closer I'd like to see that panel up close!
Carl E.
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From: tujunga, calif
Yes, it works the same way as a brake cylinder. Be sure to push the piston and rod forward to the bottom of the bore and the clutch fork rearward so the throwout bearing is against the clutch fingers, then run the adjusting nut up to the fork leaving about 1/8 gap. After the adjustment if there is still know pedal the problem is probably in the hydraulics. Did you try bleeding the slave cylinder?
I've had the system get low on fluid and afterwards had to pump the pedal dozens of times before it started working and then bled it.
I've had the system get low on fluid and afterwards had to pump the pedal dozens of times before it started working and then bled it.
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I know the master cylinder was low on fluid when they swaped the motor and the guy tried to bleed it but nothing happened. It had just a little more pedal before they replaced the motor & clutch. Maybe the slave cylinder was going bad before this job was done? Do you think if I replace it I'll get my pedal back? I replaced the master & slave cylinder a couple years ago but I gues they don't make things like they use to!
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From: tujunga, calif
I know the master cylinder was low on fluid when they swaped the motor and the guy tried to bleed it but nothing happened. It had just a little more pedal before they replaced the motor & clutch. Maybe the slave cylinder was going bad before this job was done? Do you think if I replace it I'll get my pedal back? I replaced the master & slave cylinder a couple years ago but I gues they don't make things like they use to!
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