In December while driving to Virginia from Michigan 10 hours into my trip while I was stopped at a light the truck stalled. Started back up but was running extremely rough. Took fuel filter off cleaned out and put back it. Still running rough but running turned around to go back to nearest town 2 miles away. When I reached my location the truck started running fine. So I went on to finish my journey. Two miles later again it quit.Coasted off road , tried restarting it coughed and black smoke when held to floor. Had it towed to garage 30 miles away and they replaced the map sensor. Picked it up drove 250 more miles as pulling into fuel station it stalled again.Took to Ford dealer they had it 1 1/2 days and couldn't find anything wrong. Picked up again drove 30 miles and started missing and cutting out 2-3 times and then ran fine. 100 miles later cut out again replaced cam sensor and crank sensor. Ran fine for about 100 miles and started acting up again. Went to deisel shop this time and they did diagnostic on it and couldn't find anything wrong, second deisel shop said it was the fuel sock in the tank and he replaced all that and we picked it up. Drove 90 miles and again same thing. finally threw a code of IPC.Had dealer replace and drove for a month short distances and it stalled twice at a stop sign. Started right back up and ran fine. A week later it did the same thing under power and back to the Ford Garage and they checked and again can't find anything wrong with it..HELPPPPPPPP

 

When I had nearly those same symptoms, it did turn out to be fuel starvation. Is your fuel tank steel or plastic? Do you have an aftermarket fuel filter anywhere in the system that may have been overlooked? I found a small, inline filter that had plugged up. If I had a fuel pressure gauge in the truck at the time, I would have save a lot of aggravation and mis-diagnosis.

 

It's a plastic tank, we had the sock and all the hoses replaced and added an in line clear fuel filter

 

One thing you can check easily that could also cause similar symptoms (and is a fairly common problem) is to remove the connector to the engine wiring harness, and check the underside of the wires for chafing where it crosses over the left valve cover. Often when that happens, you'll get a check engine light, though. Do you have any way to read codes yourself?

 

Lets review

Already Replaced:
- CPS
- Fuel Filter (sorta..)
- In tank screen

Thats a very good start. However, I believe the problem is your IPR. The ICP code leads me to believe that. What was the code exactly? My guess is ICP low.

Lets make sure the CPS was a factory one, if not, get one when you can. The aftermarket ones fail a lot.

The fuel tank screens do gum up sometimes, but that seems to have been addressed. Steel tanks only came on F350+ cab/chassis trucks, so thats not an issue. Drain the fuel bowl using the lever on the back, then turn the key on. It should start pouring out fuel again. This is to make sure you have good pressure. Obviously it doesn't tell you what pressure you have, but the presence of flow is a good sign.

I would try and check your ICP readings. This needs to be done with a scan tool. Anyone with an advanced scanner (or a Torque App) near you can check this quickly for you. Unplug the ICP sensor on the drivers head near the front, and try to start it. This will cause the computer to default to a safe value and rule out a bad sensor, the truck can run with no ICP sensor plugged in.

I believe you may have a failing IPR, which is not uncommon.
Tell tale signs of a bad IPR include:
- Cutting out suddenly, on or off power.
- Inability to restart immediately
- Intermittent, seemingly with no pattern
- Sometimes accompanied with low ICP, if the orings are bad.

 

Like Trey said, it definitely could be an IPR issue, too. While you're at it, make sure the IPR solenoid still has the spacer and tin nut on it, and it's secure.

 

I will give all this a try...at this point can't hurt...will let you know thanks for the help

 

Had a similar issue & mine was IPR related - the nut & spacer on the IPR had come off and the sensor/plug was sliding around. Truck wouldn't accelerate & randomly stalled once you feathered it enough to get rolling.
Put a zip tie around the IPR to hold the sensor/plug in place until I could replace the hardware, worked perfectly & had no more issues with the temp fix in place.

 

Great info Vin. Thanks for sharing. I wonder what if anything was found out by the original poster?

 

We had this issue with a 7.3 at work. The fuel stem in the fuel filter that acts as a check valve (I think that's what it does, regardless) it was plugged and once we pulled it out and cleaned it it ran 10 times better.

 

I haven't had time to check any of the thoughts out,,,once I do I will post if any were the problem.thanks all