Distributor issues
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Distributor issues
Here's the deal: I installed a Pertronix ignition kit in the stock distributor of my '72 F-250 (with a '75 390) a few months ago. When setting the timing, I realized that the mount bolt wouldn't tighten because the previous owner had stripped out the bolt hole in the aluminum manifold. I recently had to pull the distributor so I could re-thread the hole with a helicoil, and I marked the cap where the rotor had been pointing so I wouldn't have trouble with the timing. When I removed the distributor, a hexagonal rod came out with it (oil pump-related?), and it took a few tries of starting the engine and having it backfire before I realized I hadn't put the rod back in right, and the rotor wasn't quite aligned right. I pulled the distributor again, did TDC on #1 plug, etc, and it still won't start. The engine cranks but won't fire up, and every few seconds I get a puff out of the carb when cranking with starter fluid. Did I screw something up or is it just a timing issue still, and I need to try again?
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 3,512
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From: Panama City
iF YOU DIDNT GET THE OIL PUMP DRIVE SHAFT BACK IN CORRECT BE GLAD SHE WONT START. That is the first thing to make sure is correct b4 you go any further. Make sure it is engaged in oil pump and check oil pressure by spinning it with a drill and socket/extension. Then do your TDC and distibutor reinstall.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Austin, TX
What about starting the engine made you realize the pump shaft was installed incorrectly? If there was an issue with the shaft going in, the distributor wouldn't even seat properly in the first place, unless the shaft was left out completely. Please clarify.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
FE oil pump drive shaft (B8AZ-6A618-A same 1958/76) has a star washer (6229) on it.
People make the mistake of installing the drive shaft on the dizzy with the star washer missing. When this occurs, the shaft will fall down into the oil pan.
People make the mistake of installing the drive shaft on the dizzy with the star washer missing. When this occurs, the shaft will fall down into the oil pan.
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I had marked the dist cap where the rotor was pointing when I pulled the dist in the first place, so I could work it back into correct position without having to deal with TDC. When I pulled the dist and the rod came out, I set the whole thing aside, fixed the stripped hole, and then tried to install everything back the way it was, which seemed to work fine because the distributor went all the way in, completely seated in the manifold, with the rotor pointing apparently where it had been before removal. I didn't realize the rod was in crooked until I took everything apart again because the engine was backfiring and running really rough, showing me that the timing wasn't actually in the right position. I did TDC, realigned the rotor with#1, realigned the pump rod, but still won't start.
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Can you explain more about this? I've set TDC to the best of my limited understanding of the process. The rotor only goes on the shaft one way, and the distributor only goes back in all the way if it's pointed at the #1 plug wire. Are you saying I might have somehow re-installed it so it's pointing at 6 instead of 1?
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Cranky Old Guy
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Raphine, Virginia
Timing marks will come up TDC twice. Once on compression stroke and once on exhaust stroke. TDC is set with #1 cylinder at top of compression stroke.
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From: Sioux Falls Area
Can you explain more about this? I've set TDC to the best of my limited understanding of the process. The rotor only goes on the shaft one way, and the distributor only goes back in all the way if it's pointed at the #1 plug wire. Are you saying I might have somehow re-installed it so it's pointing at 6 instead of 1?
very easy to get it set TDC on the exhaust stroke after a few failed attempts at starting. (been there and done that)
re-check and report back.
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Ok, so then I know I did that right because I pulled the #1 plug and checked for top of compression on the piston.
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From: DOWN UNDER!!
because the piston moves up and down twice to perform its 4-stroke cycle: intake, compression, power, exhaust....
easiest way is pull all your plugs except cyl #1, spin the engine by hand (the correct way, should be clockwise) until you feel it getting hard to turn. this means you're on the compression stroke.
Once you start to feel resistance, stop turning the engine. Pull the plug and put a long, thin screwdriver (or welding rod, or whatever fits) in the hole and begin to turn the engine again, letting it push the rod/screwdriver out of the hole. when it stops pushing it out, put a small mark on the crank pulley at your timing indicator, then continue turning the engine until the rod starts to move down again. Stop turning and put another mark. TDC of the compression stroke (and therefore 0-deg timing) is in the centre of the 2 marks you just made.
It's a little bit rough but it's enough to get your base timing sorted... it's also a quick way to see if your balancer has slipped and needs replacing. I'm sure if I left something out somebody will fill the gaps
easiest way is pull all your plugs except cyl #1, spin the engine by hand (the correct way, should be clockwise) until you feel it getting hard to turn. this means you're on the compression stroke.
Once you start to feel resistance, stop turning the engine. Pull the plug and put a long, thin screwdriver (or welding rod, or whatever fits) in the hole and begin to turn the engine again, letting it push the rod/screwdriver out of the hole. when it stops pushing it out, put a small mark on the crank pulley at your timing indicator, then continue turning the engine until the rod starts to move down again. Stop turning and put another mark. TDC of the compression stroke (and therefore 0-deg timing) is in the centre of the 2 marks you just made.
It's a little bit rough but it's enough to get your base timing sorted... it's also a quick way to see if your balancer has slipped and needs replacing. I'm sure if I left something out somebody will fill the gaps
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Thanks for the help, everyone, especially meborder and xran. Turns out I had set initial timing to the exhaust stroke on #1 instead of compression, so I was 180˚ off. Took your advice and tried again, and it's running fine now. Glad to know it's a fairly common mistake because I'm definitely a rookie at this, and it felt like a pretty bone-head move.
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