i need to install a frame-mounted trailer hitch on my 1994 f250.
this will entail some drilling, something that always makes me cringe ... probably due to my collection of cheap drill bits more than anyrhing else.

i have always believed that one needs to start with a small bit and work ones way up in order to drill larger holes ... true or false .

i was told that drilling through surface rust will instantly dull a drill bit ... true or false .

any other dos and donts pertaining to drilling would be greatly appreciated.

 

I always mark my holes then use a center punch, then a starter bit. Can't tell you it is the right way, but it works for me. Good drill bits make a world of difference...

Always... always wear safety glass drilling metal, especially overhead... your eyes are to precious to fool with

 

X2

Also, using a drop of oil on the bits helps cut better and lessens the dulling. Take your time, don't rush the bit, use firm pressure, but don't overdo it.

Also be wary of what is on the other side of what you are drilling. It sucks to break through the metal, then hit a bunch of wires, or a fuel line, etc...

 

The proper bits and drill motor are absolutely essential to getting good accurate drill holes.

First time any bit I use seems dull its replaced, no questions; so long, its been good knowin' ya!

I find the best brand to be Champion which are NOT available at the big box home improvement stores. Typically an industrial supply or fastener house has the best stuff.

 

thanks for the input ...so it looks like my biggest enemy is myself with my cheap bits !

what about this notion that drilling through rust will quickly dull a good bit ... any truth to that ?

 

I used to buy drill sets but now I buy a couple of cobalt bits for any hole I need to drill instead since they last much longer than HSS bits. I buy TWO so I'll have a spare as most holes you drill once you will drill again.

I use machinists "center drills" in hand drills to start holes after learning about them in machine shop class.. They are absolutely worth owning.

Rust is harder than steel, so I knock it off with a grinder, flap disc or needle scaler (which are nice if you have the air to run them).

I drill pilot holes to reduce the effort needed for large holes. A pilot hole removes the metal which the tip of a larger drill would have to displace. You'll learn how to drill this way effectively with practice. A pilot drill should exceed the web thickness of the next drill, and so on.

Drilling and Reaming On GlobalSpec

I use step bits/unibits for sheet metal and copper cable lugs because they don't "lift" the workpiece as twist drills do.(I don't buy battery cables, I make my own from welding cable and lugs. Welding cable makes auto store and OEM battery cable look like utter garbage by comparisonm and is very flexible due to much finer stranding.)

http://www.webmachinist.net/wpimages/wp60120969_06.png

Center Drills | MSCDirect.com

Step Drill Bits | MSCDirect.com

Note that MSC and McMaster-Carr are awesome sources if you have to get a tool ASAP, but you can do much better on price via Ebay. I like their sites for reference too.

My machine shop owner bud saves MANY thousands of dollars on tooling by getting it via Ebay, but uses MSC etc for items he needs immediately to turn out work. I follow that lead when I buy tools, and over the years I stopped bothering with most stores other than one "real" hardware store in my area.

 

My experience has been in purchasing drill bit kits is the common bits wear before the others and after 2-3 kits I end up with several unused duplicates. As mentioned, now purchase 2-3 each of the commonly used bits that are of the highest quality. X2 using a punch, predrill w/ starter drill, use drops of oil, and run at a slow speed.

 

More than you will ever need:

http://www.irwin.com/uploads/documen...ents_guide.pdf

 

When I click on that link I get the "Aw snap....something went wrong...." (error) page----any ideas or is it just me?

 

Loads for me. You can also right click "save link as" and save the .pdf directly instead of opening it in a browser. I prefer to save them.

 

Opens into a PDF format so if you don't have the current Adobe PDF reader you can go to their website and should be able to download PDF reader for free??

 

Foxit Reader is also free, and light and fast on older machines.

 

Just because a bit says high speed does not mean you run the drill full tilt.



Use a very slow speed keeping pressure on the bit.

 

All good info above. Aside from safety glasses/goggles, a full face shield might be helpful, and long sleeves (chips can be hot) . I used 5/16 then 3/8, then 1/2" bits when installing my hitches. Also be prepared if the bit suddenly catches.

 

^^^^Great post!!!!!

All too often, I've drilled holes and all-of-a-sudden, the bit gets 'hung up' and the drill motor wants to twist in my hands!!!!!!

A face shield makes a LOT of sense, especially if laying on your back and drilling above you.

All-in-all, that post is VERY spot on!!!! Reps earned and sent!!!!!!