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Okay, another question from this ignorant new truck owner.
When you go over a bump and the headlights are on, they shut off. I know it would be a wiring issue, but where would I get into to fix it? Under the hood?
I have no idea, I know little to nothing.
For the lights to go out it has to loose power. Something is dirty or there is a bad or broken wire. There is only one to fix it, get a circuit tester like the photo below or a meter the get in there and find it.
You didn't say if the lights come back on immediately, or if you have to recycle the switch to get them back. Or something else. There is a circuit breaker that's built into the headlight switch. If the switch is very old and the C/B is failing, that is another possibility for the source of your problem. If you don't find any issues doing the check John suggested, it might be time for a new headlight switch. You can still get American made Motorcraft ones for some truck models. Don't buy a cheaper imported one. Good luck!
If have not done so already I would like to welcome you to the family of Ford Truck Enthusiast, Welcome to FTE! Was going to post diag. of the headlight circuit then realized you have a 62. Purchased the wiring diagram manual for the 65 thru Jim Osborn reproductions, best $7 spent and found it very helpful tracking down the electrical gremlins. In the JO online reproduction catalog, appears earliest wiring manual they carry is for the 63. Perhaps member can advise if the 63 manual is same/similar to wiring circuits with the 62, may be the best $7 spent.<a href="http://s300.photobucket.com/user/goatfarmer_photos/media/hmmm1.gif.html" target="_blank"><img Looking forward to your input, post pic's if and when you can. src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn25/goatfarmer_photos/hmmm1.gif" border="0" alt="hmmm photo hmmm1.gif"/></a>
x2 on Jowilker, get a test light and trace the problem when the lights are out, in my experience,most common bump failures on electrics is rusty grounds.
On old cars and trucks I used to restore, many upon many would have issues like this. Do yourself a HUGE favor: From the negative battery terminal, make sure the ground strap itself is good to the frame. From the point it makes contact to the frame, run a new ground wire (not as thick as the battery cable) to the body of the truck. Run another to the bed. Many times the ground is bad between battery to frame to chassis. Once you are sure the ground is good, then you can start diagnosing the positive power components like dimmer switch, headlight switch, etc. ALWAYS start with a solid found. My 2 cents from years of aggravation working on rust buckets....
Had the same problem before, sounds stupid, but kind of what number dummy is on to. The grounding of the dimmer switch to the floor, unbolt it clean it and rebolt it. I guess you checked the fuse? Like ND said stomp on the dimmer switch a few times.
Charlie