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Hello All! I finally have the chance to upgrade the brakes on my 53. So far I have purchased a power brake booster (under floor) and two 10 lb check valves. For the time I will be keeping the stock drum/drum configuration. Any tricks/advice about this job? I plan on replacing the brake lines too. I am uncertain on what size line to install also.
Brake lines should be 3/16. The best advice I can offer is to either buy new lines that are made to fit your truck. If you plan on fabricating them practice making double flares a lot!!! It looks easy, but getting a good leak-free flare takes a little practice and know-how. I'm still learning how to do them correctly, about half the time they leak.... I thought my brake system was done until I tried to bleed it, what a mess!
Yes, it is a dual MC...sorry about not saying that first-off. I planned on making my own lines but now I question my ability to pull off a good flare. It's about time I learn I guess. I have watched a few videos online and I get the gist of it but only with doing it myself can I truly learn. A more accurate statement would be only after I've failed over and over do I learn. I've only removed one line so and it was completely packed with crud and dirt. I didn't bother pulling the rest until I get all my parts in this weekend.
For yrs I used the standard flare tools you buy at tool dealers. I finally in vested in a Mastercool kit. Very easy to use and faster than the old hand tools. The kit was around $350 on line if you shop. Its paid for its self in the first two uses. I do a lot of lines for my vechiles and family and friends. Its easy to use and you can even flare lines under a car. It does bubble, metric, and std flares.
Yes, it is a dual MC...sorry about not saying that first-off. I planned on making my own lines but now I question my ability to pull off a good flare. It's about time I learn I guess. I have watched a few videos online and I get the gist of it but only with doing it myself can I truly learn. A more accurate statement would be only after I've failed over and over do I learn. I've only removed one line so and it was completely packed with crud and dirt. I didn't bother pulling the rest until I get all my parts in this weekend.
When I replaced my lines I bought stock length pieces at O'Reilly (any big box auto store should have pre cut brake line). I took the old ones off measured them and then took those length numbers to the store. Everything was close enough to lengths they had that I only had to flare the left rear line. To flare the line I just bought a Harbor Freight flaring kit and practiced a few times. I'd suggest to make the line a little long just in case you need to "fix" a leaking flare job.
Trick to double flares is to not overdo the 2nd step. Get the bubble done and then when doing the 2nd step dont crank the tool all the way down. That way when making the connection the inside flare on the fitting will complete the flare and the line will match the fitting's flare angle perfectly. Go too far with the flaring tool and it may not ever seal.
I also have the mastercool set, works great, but I still use the same technique as the manual tool.
BJ, that sounds like what I was hoping for. I have the HF flaring tool also. GJCAT, I did find the Mastercool Kit for $289 and it looks way better built than the HF one I have but I am limited in funds right now. Thanks for the guidance!
Well, I received most of the parts I ordered and I think I have a major problem. I've attached a pic of the brake booster/mc I purchased. I took the original pedal off but quickly figured out that the setup I purchased might be for an automatic instead of my manual. No instructions were given so I have tried to find what I could online (Mid-Fifty). Nothing for the application/model I purchased. At no point was I asked what trans I have nor did I think of it being an issue at the time. Is there a manual trans adapter I can make or purchase? Am I missing something (it is 100 degrees outside and I'm a little loopy right now so I wouldn't be surprised if I missed something).
The one pictured is for an automatic. OBTW it won't fit in a panel without moving your gas tank as Panels have their thanks inside the frame rails. Don't ask how I know.
Here's some info from Hotrodtrucks.com look on page 2.
I'd ask the seller if you couldn't swap it for the right one.
Why does it seem that the one I actually need is more expensive than the one I ordered yet technically has less parts? I paid $149. I did find this correct one for $289:
After looking at pics it looks as though the only difference is the actual mounting bracket and I'm wondering if they might just send me that to me instead. I will find out Monday when they open.
It does seem odd that you get more parts for less but that seems to be universal. If you can find the manufacturer you can probably get the right mount. I'm reasonably sure your right about the Master and Booster. I bought mine from eBay and it came in unmarked white boxes.
Same here...everything is unmarked. Hopefully I can get the right mount from them tomorrow. I'm wondering if I can just cut off the pedal portion and basically cut it down like the one I need...
I thought about that but chopping up a new bracket just seems wrong. if you can't get any satisfaction from the vendor then I think you could modify yours to work though.
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