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Ok, so I have a 73 standard cab shortbed with a fresh high octane 390. Currently, I have a set of Flowtech headers installed and no matter how hard I try I cannot get them to seal. My next task is going to be to once again take the headers loose, install a new gasket and load both sides of it up with copper based rtv. Any suggestions?
Now these headers have been a pain ever since I installed them initially. The collector is really close to the shift linkage on my c6, enough so that I had to weld the exhaust pipe to the reducer rather than use a clamp as well as flip my kickdown to the back so it didnt hit the collector.
My question is does anyone elses have issues like I do, or are these pains self inflicted because I have the wrong headers?
Any help is appreciated I am kind of at my wits end with these headers and am considering just going to a set of Hedman's.
This is a long shot, but I'd be curious if welding the reducer adds the leverage of that entire exhaust run onto the header bolts, rather than letting some level of flex at the reducer. That might force the header loose somewhat.
You can get locking header bolts with a tab that prevent them from turning. Also note that dirty threads will give you false torque.
Your best best is to clean the gasket mating surfaces really really well and use ultra copper RTV. If you have overtightened them and bent the flanges they need to be straightened on a belt sander
Lots to check.
Since you have a 73, I'm assuming (and you know how that goes) you have D2 heads so fit should not be a problem with most headers (also assuming the headers are Ok). You do have to make sure you get the correct gasket fit though.
Gasket companies have different numbers for different FE heads.
Ports are not uniform through the years.
Here is an example of different port location. So make sure you get the right gasket and install correctly (second pic).
I like copper gaskets. A little copper RTV as mentioned above doesn't hurt either if you think you have a rough fit.
Flat surfaces, install, couple of heat cycles, re tighten.
That 4134 pn is the SCE pn for D2s
You using studs or bolts? You using grade 8 hdwr? You using Nord Lock washers? Have you checked the flange for straight-ness? Are the bolts you are using already have a washer on them?
Yes make sure you are getting the correct gaskets for your eng/head application!
A little Permatex Ultra Copper max temp never hurt a thing, and a correct torque sequence. Cold torque, then run to op temp then hot tq.
Anti-seize the hardware!!! Make sure there is NO grease or oil on the gaskets, your hands or the heads on install time (can cause a early burn out/fail spot).
I had the exact same problem with my old 351m w/ flow tech headers. I tried a belt sander to get the flanges flat. The best header gaskets out there are made by a place called remflex. You can order them through Jeffs bronco graveyard. The sealed up perfect.
I'm thinking maybe your header flange isn't quite flat and has a slight curve causing the leak. Maybe check using a straight edge or maybe have them machined flat if there's enough material.
I am using bolts with lock washers, no additional locking mechanism. Would you guys recommend the remflex in case the headers aren't straight? If the flange is junk I would just buy another set but, I am willing to try one more time with the set I have. As you guys know, changing the header gaskets on an FE and in a dent with that massive fan box in the way is no easy task.
If the flange is junk I would just buy another set but, I am willing to try one more time with the set I have. As you guys know, changing the header gaskets on an FE and in a dent with that massive fan box in the way is no easy task.
Yeah it's crappy job.
Have you put a straight edge to the flange yet?
I figured out the issue. The flowtech headers that I have, actually protrude through the flange, and after the gaskets are on the protrusion causes a gap at the top and bottom of the gasket. The fix is either scrap the ****ty flowtechs or buy a gasket with a 2" opening rather than a 2-1/4" opening.
I will most likely go with the remflex gaskets with a 2" opening. I may go with some rtv as well, Do I put rtv on both sides of the gasket?
No, they actually make gaskets for these scenarios. The protrusion is actually where the pipes are welded to the flange, grinding them off would mean re-welding and at that point I may as well buy a different set of headers.