Arrgh!! Header Gaskets!
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 510
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From: Charlotte
Arrgh!! Header Gaskets!
I love headers but man I hate exhaust leaks. I got stock 66 heads C6AE-U with Dynomax headers. I cannot find a gasket that will not leak or even fit worth a flip!
Any suggestions guys? I measured my ports with a ruler (sorry, no calipers handy) but they seem to be 1.25 in wide and 1 7/8 in tall.
Any suggestions guys? I measured my ports with a ruler (sorry, no calipers handy) but they seem to be 1.25 in wide and 1 7/8 in tall.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 423
From: Long Island USA
Try those first.
I used 330 exhaust gaskets and enlarged the holes enough to match the headers. They are a metal/ceramic type gasket, metal on one side, some kind of clay/ceramic stuff on the other.
Then I put Red Hi-Temp RTV all over them.
They held for 15 years until I pulled the motor last year (scrapped the highboy).
I used 330 exhaust gaskets and enlarged the holes enough to match the headers. They are a metal/ceramic type gasket, metal on one side, some kind of clay/ceramic stuff on the other.
Then I put Red Hi-Temp RTV all over them.
They held for 15 years until I pulled the motor last year (scrapped the highboy).
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
Likes: 21
From: Texas
I run the fel-Pro 1442 gasket as recommended by Stan at FPA (the header guru). I've had no issues and they've been on and off many times.
My opinion, it's not your gaskets, it's your headers. I tried the Dynomax headers before the FPA and never got them to seal. the Dynomax had a "lip" where the pipe protruded through the flange making for a very difficult sealing surface. you'll need a gasket that matches that "lip" perfectly.
My opinion, it's not your gaskets, it's your headers. I tried the Dynomax headers before the FPA and never got them to seal. the Dynomax had a "lip" where the pipe protruded through the flange making for a very difficult sealing surface. you'll need a gasket that matches that "lip" perfectly.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,934
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From: iowa
Originally Posted by gtex
the Dynomax had a "lip" where the pipe protruded through the flange making for a very difficult sealing surface. you'll need a gasket that matches that "lip" perfectly.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Turlock CA
Had to bring this one back.
I had to replace my starter this weekend and along with that you know how it goes you have to drop the right header.
Well I have been running the headmann header gasket for two years no leaks. Well the only gaskets in town were the Mr.Gasket ones. Everything else had to be ordered.
So I bought them.
Arrrrrghhhhh DAMN LEAKS..........
I ordered a set of headmann from Jegs and can't wait to get them in I got to drive this thing for the next week and will have to put on about 175 miles think this will hurt anything? The leaks are not that bad you can only here them under a heavy exceleration.
I hate header leaks..........
jd
I had to replace my starter this weekend and along with that you know how it goes you have to drop the right header.
Well I have been running the headmann header gasket for two years no leaks. Well the only gaskets in town were the Mr.Gasket ones. Everything else had to be ordered.
So I bought them.
Arrrrrghhhhh DAMN LEAKS..........
I ordered a set of headmann from Jegs and can't wait to get them in I got to drive this thing for the next week and will have to put on about 175 miles think this will hurt anything? The leaks are not that bad you can only here them under a heavy exceleration.
I hate header leaks..........
jd
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 45
Likes: 1
I got this tip from an old timer once:
Soak the header gaskets in water until they are good and wet, but not so wet they want to fall apart, just a minute or so should do the trick. Cut the lower parts of the bolt holes out if possible so you can start the bolts in the headers, then just drop the gaskets on afterwards. Torque the bolts to the recommended spec. Warm the engine to normal operating temperature, shut the engine off and immediately retorque the bolts before the engine cools.
This has worked with great success for me in the past, and should work for you, as well.
Soak the header gaskets in water until they are good and wet, but not so wet they want to fall apart, just a minute or so should do the trick. Cut the lower parts of the bolt holes out if possible so you can start the bolts in the headers, then just drop the gaskets on afterwards. Torque the bolts to the recommended spec. Warm the engine to normal operating temperature, shut the engine off and immediately retorque the bolts before the engine cools.
This has worked with great success for me in the past, and should work for you, as well.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 709
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From: Mesquite, Texas
I used the stock Headman paper looking gaskets on my 352 that came with the headers. Soaked them and retightened them 2 times. No leaks. On my new 390 I used the Felpro gaskets that came in my engine gasket set for my Hooker Comps. Retightened them 2 times and no leaks. My muffler shop guy thought I had a leak and he used a piece of vacum hose about 3 feet long and stuck it in his ear and ran the other end all around each header flange to listen for small leaks. He didnt find any. IMO the retightening is more important than the gasket used.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,111
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From: Turlock CA
Ok
I used the soaking method I also heard of that years ago and it worked on the headman set of gaskets, but it failed on the MrGasket. I have retorqued twice it got a little better but still leaks. The new headman gaskets will be here soon.
Thanks guys
jd
I used the soaking method I also heard of that years ago and it worked on the headman set of gaskets, but it failed on the MrGasket. I have retorqued twice it got a little better but still leaks. The new headman gaskets will be here soon.
Thanks guys
jd