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So in my quest to learn the basics I have managed with the help of FTE to successfully replace my output seal on my transfer case and now I need to replace the u joints. I had an issue with my output seal not fitting the first time we ordered one from napa so I don't want to have the same issue on my u joints. My truck downtime was a week and I can't afford that with my u joint replacement.
I will be replacing the u joints on my front drive shaft as they are squeaking awful when I drive. My question is another silly newb one: how do I size my u joints to napa for replacements? Are they a standard size or will I have to remove them first before sourcing???
I would guess they are standard size, unless some custom work has been done to the d/s or input/output flanges?
Take one out and take it with you to be sure, or at least have the measurements cap to cap width.
There are probably a few options for u j-joints brands. Like cheap, sealed house brand, or a little more $ and have a grease zert that threads in. I like the option to lube it like the rest of the drive train.
Moog, Lakewood Performance, Dana-Spicer and Duralast Gold are maybe some options.
There is always aftermarket high dollar CTM, but now were are talking changing flange sizes.
Spicer joints are pretty darn good. If you can find them go for it. I am also doing my U joints and all I could find were the parts store hose brand.
For some mutual help here: Does anyone know some tips for getting the darn joint out of the shaft? I was using two sockets and a vice. The vice ended up snapping off at the base from too much leverage.
O'reilly's has a ball/u-joint press that you can use for free. Just have to leave a deposit that is refunded when you return it. I just used it to replace all my u-joints on my driveshafts. I replaced them with spicer joints I got off e-bay. Very easy to use.
So in my quest to learn the basics I have managed with the help of FTE to successfully replace my output seal on my transfer case and now I need to replace the u joints. I had an issue with my output seal not fitting the first time we ordered one from napa so I don't want to have the same issue on my u joints. My truck downtime was a week and I can't afford that with my u joint replacement.
I will be replacing the u joints on my front drive shaft as they are squeaking awful when I drive. My question is another silly newb one: how do I size my u joints to napa for replacements? Are they a standard size or will I have to remove them first before sourcing???
Thanks!
You probably have either a 1310 or 1330 u-joint. Measure end of cap to end of cap. Also measure the cap diameter.
For reference my 1330 u-joint is 3 5/8" with 1 1/16" cap diameter.
To remove and install I purchased a press tool a few years ago. Looks like a big C clamp with hollow ends. Works great and was a good investment.
Thanks y'all! I have splicer joints currently as I could read it on the visible cap. I forgot about tool rental from o Reilly that is a great suggestion. I guess I will try and source some new joints first before undertaking the replacement
I just got my Bronco back together Friday after getting new ball joints and front axle u-joints. Used Spicer u-joints and XRF ball joints. I used the rental tool from oreillys. I bought my own OTC socket for the balljoint adjusting sleeve. I already had the 4 toothed socket for the front wheel bearing nuts.
Use the rental tool. If front housing and xfer case are both flanged, remove driveshaft and compare u joint in store, I've read that there are many many different u joints used from 73-79.
You many want to get the u joints with no grease fitting. They are solid, not hollow, thus stronger.
The "to be sealed and solid" or "have a grease zert, thus a real small grease channel to have grease in and that means weaker....." is a long heated discussion in some circles.
I have to google search every term y'all use, I am that inept at wrenching. I found some spicer joints on ebay and they aren't too expensive. Now I have to figure out how to measure my joints!
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