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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Reverse lights not working

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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 08:55 AM
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Reverse lights not working

I have a 81 f100 ranger and my reverse lights don't work anymore, I've checked the bulbs and they are still good and the switch looks to be good, what else could cause the lights not to work?
 
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 09:05 AM
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Now sure what "looks good" means.
Did you test with a meter?
Is there 12v on 1 of the wires (KO EO)?
Continuity test on the switch?
Broken/corroded harness?
 
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 09:09 AM
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Yea it was tested with a meter and it had good current, and I'm not sure if their is a 12v on the wire and I have not done a continuity test yet
 
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 09:23 AM
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This is a good start for you. Kinda like "follow the electricity" If voltage is getting from the battery past the switch, follow the wire right to the sockets.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 09:31 AM
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How do I go about checking the wire through out to see if their is a break in the current
 
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 09:43 AM
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As Ford states, "use a pin to pierce the insulation to check voltage"
I usually will go to the end of the circuit and test the plug.
If the front end of the circuit has power and the end of it does not, visually look down the wire (you have to twist it to see the other side for chafing).
If no luck on finding a break, start using the pin method.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 12:30 PM
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Reamer is on the right path. But those lights usually fail due to a bad ground.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 12:47 PM
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Oh yeah, the ground thing
 
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 04:49 PM
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Alright, I'll check the grounds first and see if that's the problem
 
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 04:49 PM
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Thanks guys!
 
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Reamer is on the right path. But those lights usually fail due to a bad ground.
Ain't that the truth.......
Of course, the grounds in the sockets for reverse, and stop/turn/tail & front marker/turn are known to be rather poor. The little metal tab that is supposed to contact the side of the bulb base can get bent and/or corroded after this many years.......
 
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 07:44 PM
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Most testlights have a very sharp point on them to poke the wire, they are better for checking light circuits than a digital voltmeter.

Have you checked the fuse?
 
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 08:49 AM
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Yea I've checked the fuses and all of them were good, I even replaced the one for the lights and nothing changed
 
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 09:23 AM
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Well, if you have a meter, do like was said and follow the electricity... test for power on the incoming side of the switch, then the outgoing side of the switch once the switch is activated... then at the other end of the wire that connects to the outgoing side of the switch... then to the socket, then to ground.
 
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