Well the other day out of no where my SES light came on and my 2001 suddenly started running like crap. Seems like it only has half the power it should. It will still get up to freeway speeds, but definatly isn't right. Sounds terrible and rough. Last few days it seems to be getting a little harder to start, temps have been in the upper 40's and it seems harder to start then when it was -20 a couple months ago. Haven't noticed any smoke when driving or at startup. It had a full tank of fuel at the time and have cycled a full tank through since. Replaced the fuel filter and switched the CPS back to the original one that I had stashed in the glovebox. I suspect the uvch, none of the wires are frayed that I can see on the outside. I really don't want to pull the covers so wanted to see if there was anything else I should check first. I don't have a way to pull the codes unless I take it to the dealer here in Billings, but I guess I will prob make an appointment for monday if I can't figure it out in the meantime. Any suggestions appreciated guys.

 

I think you are on the right track with the UVCH.

 

x2. I did break down and find a shop that would read the codes for free when it happened to me, because I was uncertain and unwilling to crack the valve covers, but the codes confirmed it. If your '01 has more than 100K on the clock, I'd get 'em changed out. They've redesigned the harness latch and it seems to hold well.

 

So I assume at 287,000 its probably time then. Is this a real difficult thing to do? I'm kind of a low skilled mechanical type dude. Just spent the day putting a new set of rear leaf springs in and questioned my sanity several times. Of course the last bolt I took out of the shackle was the one that wouldnt come out. Nut came off fine, but the bugger was stuck in the bushing and wouldn't come through.

 

It's really pretty straight forward, it just is a little time consuming the first time. Ratchets, extensions, a swivel, sockets and some patience is all you need.

 

Do I need a new harness or do you just plug the old one back in and put the quarter in?

 

Personal preference. I think the UCVH runs about $50 each? Or you can grab a couple quarters out of the cup holder.

 

If you understand a volt meter, I would check the ohms at the valve cover connectors first before you spend hours ripping off valve covers without confirming the possible disconnect inside the cover. Could be it through, I did the 50c mod and found one of mine coming apart and when i did my dads both of his was coming apart inside the cover. I was suprised dads didn't give him problems and i was glad i was proactive about this mod. Both jobs costed me a $1.00 total. That reminds me, Dad never paid me back.

If you do the 50c mod you will need a belt sander, bench grinder or a few beers and a file.
If you want to use clips ($15 ?? ) instead of the quarters. http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...-harness-clips

Quick search on youtube gives you the idea the issue. Thanks to HHOJUNKIE85 for putting this up.

 

Click here: [LINK]

 

Something else that comes to mind here, is the Tin nut on the back of the Ipr valve. It has a tendency to come loose and eventually fall in to the engine valley and your truck will run just as you stated. A pair of tin snips will easily trim a Quarter as well. Also, there is a member here that is in Billings Mt that can offer some help, I just can't remember his name right now.

 

His name is Tom (Onelionhunter) but he lives acouple hrs west of you in Belgrade MT. His father lives in Billings. My father in law live in Billings also. Great place to live, I really like that Town.

 

As the guys already said, the UVCH connections would definitely cause what you're seeing. Look at Tugly's link. That 42-pin connector is above the drivers side valve cover. Loosen the 10mm (?) bolt and unplug it. The half of the connector that's still attached to the bracket above the valve cover is where you need to test with an ohm meter. Put your meter in resistance mode. If it's not an auto-ranging meter, put it on the next higher setting above 1 ohm - you're going to be metering about 3 ohms on each injector, if the UVCH connection is good. So, one probe goes into the Passenger Side Supply pin, and with your other probe, check 1P, 3P, 5P, and 7P. Then, move the probe from Passenger Supply to Drivers Side Supply, and with your other probe, check 2D, 4D, 6D, and 8 D. Most likely, you're not going to see any resistance on either the entire passenger or entire drivers side, while the other side will give you around 3 ohm readings for each injector. The side that shows no resistance on each injector is the culprit side that you need to tackle first.

A couple of thoughts:
1. You've got 287k on this truck, and like me, you live in Montana. If the glow plugs haven't been changed, now would be a good time. Reply back if they haven't been changed and I'll give you the breakdown of what to get (Motorcraft or Beru brand ONLY) and what tools you'll need to make it easy.
2. If the drivers side is the culprit, and you have a stock air intake, it'd be a great time to spend $87 on the 6637 filter kit from Riffraff, or any other site that sells a similar 6637 kit.

I've been inside the VC's a lot lately, so hit me up for info. I'd offer to help this weekend, but I'm booked up. If you wanted to wait until the following weekend, I could lend a hand if you drove to Bozeman.

 

If you do happen to have an issue with one (or both) of the valve cover harness connectors, do not simply install a quarter or washer unless you want to take the valve covers off again. I still want to see how it takes some people more than about half an hour to get both valve covers off and have a good start on getting them back on again.

Once the terminals have fretted or gotten warm and lost tension, the damage is done. High resistance equals no worky.

 

Nice to see you Cleatus, you were missed.

 

Thanks Guys, I am going to pull it into the shop tomorrow and try and ohm test it. Ill also check the ipr nut. Mtsteve it had new glow plugs about 60,000 miles ago. Replaced number 8 injector recently. Had the 6637 but switched it out for the AIS. Its got a 38r with 4inch exhaust, frx, new boots. I was gonna just drop it off at dealership but I think I will try and figure it out this weekend.
Cleatus are you saying that if the uvch is loose I should replace it instead of just plugging it back in and adding the quarter? Thanks for the help, I'll let you know what i find. Also I've been driving the truck all week, am I doing any more damage to it doing that?