Exhaust info Needed
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,182
Likes: 380
From: Near Los Angeles
Exhaust info Needed
Hello, all--
I'm upgrading my exhaust and need a bit of guidance. I'm going dual 2.25" pipe, both on one side from a 300 inline. The heat of the header is killing me, so I'm going to split efi manifolds and dual pipes down the passenger side and exit rear at bumper.
I'd like to put in a junction so it can be taken apart in sections, but don't know where to buy slip joints and clamps. Of course it will unbolt at the manifolds, but want another joint somewhere. Can someone please explain how this is done and hopefully where to buy the parts.
Thx. k.
I'm upgrading my exhaust and need a bit of guidance. I'm going dual 2.25" pipe, both on one side from a 300 inline. The heat of the header is killing me, so I'm going to split efi manifolds and dual pipes down the passenger side and exit rear at bumper.
I'd like to put in a junction so it can be taken apart in sections, but don't know where to buy slip joints and clamps. Of course it will unbolt at the manifolds, but want another joint somewhere. Can someone please explain how this is done and hopefully where to buy the parts.
Thx. k.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
You can use this type of clamp. It's made to connect two pipes of the same diameter.
So basically you can cut the pipes wherever you want to and use this clamp to reconnect them.
I forget where I saw these but I'll go back and see if I can find the info.
So basically you can cut the pipes wherever you want to and use this clamp to reconnect them.
I forget where I saw these but I'll go back and see if I can find the info.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
I've used them. It's called a band clamp. Summit and Jegs carry them. Maybe your local parts house does too....
Two types... one for a butt connection and the other for slip fits. Go with the latter to avoid exhaust leaks and a stronger union between the tubing sections. About $9 each IIRC.
Two types... one for a butt connection and the other for slip fits. Go with the latter to avoid exhaust leaks and a stronger union between the tubing sections. About $9 each IIRC.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,182
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From: Near Los Angeles
On the other hand, I've spoken with forum members who could not tell a performance diff when they changed from header to efi mannies, and got a world of difference with the heat. And by selling the header the swap pays for itself. Yes, I admit the header looks awesome.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
Just curious, what is the particular issue you're having with heat coming from the header? Do you mean the exhaust run under the driver side of the cab is causing you problems?
I have the Hedman header with 2.25-inch duals all the way back, and the jump to the driver side starts pretty far toward the front of the vehicle. If there are any pictures I can provide that would help, let me know.
I have the Hedman header with 2.25-inch duals all the way back, and the jump to the driver side starts pretty far toward the front of the vehicle. If there are any pictures I can provide that would help, let me know.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,182
Likes: 380
From: Near Los Angeles
Just curious, what is the particular issue you're having with heat coming from the header? Do you mean the exhaust run under the driver side of the cab is causing you problems?
I have the Hedman header with 2.25-inch duals all the way back, and the jump to the driver side starts pretty far toward the front of the vehicle. If there are any pictures I can provide that would help, let me know.
I have the Hedman header with 2.25-inch duals all the way back, and the jump to the driver side starts pretty far toward the front of the vehicle. If there are any pictures I can provide that would help, let me know.
Band clamps: Thanks for the info guys. The two types are Lap and butt joint band clamps. The lap type is for connecting id to od tubing, like from a muffler to a pipe where one slips into the other. The butt joint type is for joining two pipes of the same size. Either can be had at Summit for about $8 a shot.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,806
Likes: 8
From: Langley, BC
Yes, that may be an option. Trouble is, I've only heard from those who want to do it, no one who has done it and mentioned the heat difference. Also, if I go that route I have to purchase a mini starter and probably have a spare for trips. $200 for the coating, plus over $100 for a starter X2, for an untried system.
On the other hand, I've spoken with forum members who could not tell a performance diff when they changed from header to efi mannies, and got a world of difference with the heat. And by selling the header the swap pays for itself. Yes, I admit the header looks awesome.
On the other hand, I've spoken with forum members who could not tell a performance diff when they changed from header to efi mannies, and got a world of difference with the heat. And by selling the header the swap pays for itself. Yes, I admit the header looks awesome.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
Hello. Thanks for jumping in. The problem is with a 300 inline engine the exhaust is all on one side, right under the intake/carb. Not only did my fuel perk in the bowls, but it locks in the starter too. Heat in the cab is tolerable. I'm tossing around the option of doing away with the header in favor of the later efi exhaust split manifolds, solving the heat issue and the starter problem in one swoop.
I might be getting lucky with fuel boiling; I haven't had an issue. I have an Offy DP intake and it seems to hold the carburetor far enough away. If anything, I need to add a heat plate underneath to splice into the heater hoses (I believe you've done a lot of research with that). That's one of the many to-do's. It's funny how things that start out as temporary end up staying there for years to come. I did the swap exactly 6 years ago.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,806
Likes: 8
From: Langley, BC
Gotcha. I can vouch for the starter being a huge pain. I swapped to a mini-starter so that I could service the starter; heat soak does not seem to be a problem. But it felt like brain surgery trying to route the wiring so as to not come into contact with the header.
I might be getting lucky with fuel boiling; I haven't had an issue. I have an Offy DP intake and it seems to hold the carburetor far enough away. If anything, I need to add a heat plate underneath to splice into the heater hoses (I believe you've done a lot of research with that). That's one of the many to-do's. It's funny how things that start out as temporary end up staying there for years to come. I did the swap exactly 6 years ago.
I might be getting lucky with fuel boiling; I haven't had an issue. I have an Offy DP intake and it seems to hold the carburetor far enough away. If anything, I need to add a heat plate underneath to splice into the heater hoses (I believe you've done a lot of research with that). That's one of the many to-do's. It's funny how things that start out as temporary end up staying there for years to come. I did the swap exactly 6 years ago.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,182
Likes: 380
From: Near Los Angeles
I was making/selling the heating plates for a while. They ensure better smooth running, no puddling of fuel. Both the offy Dp and the C intake have a provision for the plate on the bottom. The newer Clifford intakes have a coolant passage built in; the old ones do not.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,806
Likes: 8
From: Langley, BC
I was making/selling the heating plates for a while. They ensure better smooth running, no puddling of fuel. Both the offy Dp and the C intake have a provision for the plate on the bottom. The newer Clifford intakes have a coolant passage built in; the old ones do not.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 348
Likes: 4
From: Bakersfield,CA
Have a 1980 ,300 6 going into a 1973 F250 just for the fun of it.
Recently picked up a pair of EFI CI manifolds.
Plan on running 1-3/4" from the each manifold to a Y at the trans cross member.
2" single exhaust with one or two cylindrical glass packs.
300 6 is low RPM rated engine with max torque at ~1800 rpm.
To develop torque for the 300, increased exhaust back pressure from a smaller pipe is required, compared to a 302 high rpm engine, where a larger exhaust diameter would be more desirable.
Ordered some exhaust wrap. Going to wrap the exhaust pipe for heat control.
and leave the CI EFI manifolds unwrapped.
Ceramic coating the CI manifolds will increase the temperature gradient and may result in a thermal stress cracked manifold depending on the geometry.
The right side engine mount has a factory sheet metal plate for heat control to the intake manifold and carburetor.
Heat from the exhaust manifolds definely needs to be diverted.
Recently picked up a pair of EFI CI manifolds.
Plan on running 1-3/4" from the each manifold to a Y at the trans cross member.
2" single exhaust with one or two cylindrical glass packs.
300 6 is low RPM rated engine with max torque at ~1800 rpm.
To develop torque for the 300, increased exhaust back pressure from a smaller pipe is required, compared to a 302 high rpm engine, where a larger exhaust diameter would be more desirable.
Ordered some exhaust wrap. Going to wrap the exhaust pipe for heat control.
and leave the CI EFI manifolds unwrapped.
Ceramic coating the CI manifolds will increase the temperature gradient and may result in a thermal stress cracked manifold depending on the geometry.
The right side engine mount has a factory sheet metal plate for heat control to the intake manifold and carburetor.
Heat from the exhaust manifolds definely needs to be diverted.