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Hi again, you folks were so helpful to me a few months ago when I was trying to diagnose why my 2001 escape's cold start stuttering problem. That turned out to be the lower intake gaskets. It runs like a champ now, but Im having trouble with the AC.
When I got the Escape last fall, I was told the AC probably just needed charged. I tried running it last month when it was warm, got nothing but warm air. So this weekend I got it charged, but when they went to release the pressure, they found it had alot more pressure than it should have. Once the pressure was released and the system drained/vacuumed (hope Im saying this right) when they tried to put more freon in, it took a little but not much. The pump kept trying to start, it would start and stop right away, and would do this about every 10 seconds. Finally had to give up. What could it be?
Hi again, you folks were so helpful to me a few months ago when I was trying to diagnose why my 2001 escape's cold start stuttering problem. That turned out to be the lower intake gaskets. It runs like a champ now, but Im having trouble with the AC.
When I got the Escape last fall, I was told the AC probably just needed charged. I tried running it last month when it was warm, got nothing but warm air. So this weekend I got it charged, but when they went to release the pressure, they found it had alot more pressure than it should have. Once the pressure was released and the system drained/vacuumed (hope Im saying this right) when they tried to put more freon in, it took a little but not much. The pump kept trying to start, it would start and stop right away, and would do this about every 10 seconds. Finally had to give up. What could it be?
Do you mean they evacuated the system? If they released refrigerant into the air, that's highly illegal. Maybe when they evacuated and it removed more than it was listed to hold? Normally they evacuate, vacuum and charge.
Maybe you mean that the A/C compressor clutch wasn't cycling ON then OFF? The only way to start is charge the system to the listed amount and go from there.
Sorry, part of the problem is I dont know how it works. Anyway, he kept saying vacuum the system. When he started, there was way more pressure than there should have been, he thought it was overcharged before. After he vacuumed it, it was when he was trying to charge it that the pump/compressor would kick on then immediately off every 10 secs or so.
Sorry, part of the problem is I dont know how it works. Anyway, he kept saying vacuum the system. When he started, there was way more pressure than there should have been, he thought it was overcharged before. After he vacuumed it, it was when he was trying to charge it that the pump/compressor would kick on then immediately off every 10 secs or so.
If the system hasn't just run even if it has been working properly, it will only have static pressure depending on the ambient temperature. At 70F, it will be around 70 psi. If that comes out, it may look like lots.
The compressor clutch will cycle ON/OFF much more frequently if your low on charge but as you add more refrigerant it'll stay engaged longer.
Did he have one or two machines, etc. that needed electrical power? There is a vacuum pump to remove the air, etc. but there is also a recovery machine that removes the refrigerant in the system and that is normally weighed to see how much was in there.
Using the small cans, you can put them into a bucket of warm water no higher than 125F to speed up charging and put a large floor fan in front of the vehicle.
I remember one little machine, I'm guessing that was the one that removed the air. that makes sense regarding the static pressure, it was pretty warm that day, at least 70 degrees. After that I remember a contraption with 2 gauges and a 2 or 3 hoses. One 2 hooked into the ac on the car and one hooked into the freon bottle. I had the engine running and the A/C on, I guess that was supposed to make it suck the freon out of the bottle?
Its also quite possible I am not explaining it properly. Or maybe the process differs from car to car? I watched him charge the A/C on his hyundai tiburon right before he tried to charge mine. Would the process be much different between the 2 cars?
I remember one little machine, I'm guessing that was the one that removed the air. that makes sense regarding the static pressure, it was pretty warm that day, at least 70 degrees. After that I remember a contraption with 2 gauges and a 2 or 3 hoses. One 2 hooked into the ac on the car and one hooked into the freon bottle. I had the engine running and the A/C on, I guess that was supposed to make it suck the freon out of the bottle?
Freon bottle, tank, small cans or what??
There are 12oz cans and 30lb of refrigerant. There are also 30lb tanks used for storing of removed refrigerant too.
How many devices did he use that needed to be plugged in or power by electricity?
Sorry, just one electrical device that needed plugged in. It did the evacuating/vacuuming all the way down to negative pressure. And we were using the 12 oz cans
Sorry, just one electrical device that needed plugged in. It did the evacuating/vacuuming all the way down to negative pressure. And we were using the 12 oz cans
You need to use a vacuum pump after using that machine unless that's a very high end all in one machine like big shops use but I doubt that since your using small cans. It sounds like a recovery machine but after it's used, a vacuum pump should be used as those machines won't/don't pull enough vacuum.
So theoretically, all I may need to do is take it to a shop to have it charged and it might be ok? Im driving the kids to texas this summer.. will be a long hot drive with no ac!
So theoretically, all I may need to do is take it to a shop to have it charged and it might be ok? Im driving the kids to texas this summer.. will be a long hot drive with no ac!
In theory, yes but you won't know for sure till it has the proper charge which is step #1.
Have them draw the proper vacuum, check that the vacuum holds (no leaks), then charge by weight of refrigerant.
They say use vacuum for checking for leaks but I can't tell for a fact that it doesn't always work. I've had them hold vacuum but not a charge. The best way is to test for leaks is with dry nitrogen to 150psi then vacuum but they can leak either way.