Bubble Bubble at the spark plug
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,031
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Bubble Bubble at the spark plug
I put the pressure washer and a can of Gunk to my engine last night (covered up carb, coil and pulled a couple of wires loose that I did not want torn up).
After washing it, it started right up.
But I noticed water bubbling up from around the second from front spark plug.
Shut her down. wiped the water away from the plug area and pulled it. Oily (not good), cleaned it and then reseated it. I guess I should have sprayed some more water around it. Any thoughts?
I probably should replace the plugs, wires, install a points-less ignition. I have done a fluid change on engine and tranny.
Did a carb rebuild last weekend.
Idling a little rough this morning and last night after the cleaning.
Going in for a knee surgery Friday, so won't be doing anything to it this weekend.
After washing it, it started right up.
But I noticed water bubbling up from around the second from front spark plug.
Shut her down. wiped the water away from the plug area and pulled it. Oily (not good), cleaned it and then reseated it. I guess I should have sprayed some more water around it. Any thoughts?
I probably should replace the plugs, wires, install a points-less ignition. I have done a fluid change on engine and tranny.
Did a carb rebuild last weekend.
Idling a little rough this morning and last night after the cleaning.
Going in for a knee surgery Friday, so won't be doing anything to it this weekend.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,949
Likes: 6
From: Earth
It's tough to imagine you could blow water past a properly torqued spark plug but pulling the plugs and cranking the engine for a few seconds would blow anything out. If you've driven it, though, it's probably gotten hot enough to burn off anything that may have blown by.
Post hoc ergo propter hoc, just because it's running rough after cleaning doesn't mean the cleaning is the cause. Replacing the ignition part you mentioned (assuming they're well used) will make a big difference. Point ignition is fine, no need to change just for the sake of change. You could also use the module from an EFI Ford with points for a cheap electronic ignition. Check gofastforless.com
Post hoc ergo propter hoc, just because it's running rough after cleaning doesn't mean the cleaning is the cause. Replacing the ignition part you mentioned (assuming they're well used) will make a big difference. Point ignition is fine, no need to change just for the sake of change. You could also use the module from an EFI Ford with points for a cheap electronic ignition. Check gofastforless.com
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2014
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I have definitely driven long enough to evaporate any water that might have gotten in there. And after washing it I made sure it ran long enough to evaporate any water in the hood area.
But anyway did pick up a new set of plugs and wires. Gapped the plugs and installed the wires. Ran fine, it seemed.
Took a longer drive and (after getting warmed up) it started hesitating/pulsing when accelerating and did not have much power when accelerating from higher speeds. So I have other things to look at. Did note a couple of things under the hood now that a large percentage of the gunk is gone.
Master cylinder appears to be leaking at the top (whole master cylinder is damp);
There is oil on the frame under the fuel pump/distributor. So I have leak in that area. I need a better seal under the cap containing the PCV valve. Oil leaks from it as well.
But anyway did pick up a new set of plugs and wires. Gapped the plugs and installed the wires. Ran fine, it seemed.
Took a longer drive and (after getting warmed up) it started hesitating/pulsing when accelerating and did not have much power when accelerating from higher speeds. So I have other things to look at. Did note a couple of things under the hood now that a large percentage of the gunk is gone.
Master cylinder appears to be leaking at the top (whole master cylinder is damp);
There is oil on the frame under the fuel pump/distributor. So I have leak in that area. I need a better seal under the cap containing the PCV valve. Oil leaks from it as well.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Did you replace the spark plug? It's probably rare but the seal can fail. Back in the day when plugs were routinely pulled for inspection and cleaning (every five or ten thousand miles, say) one of the tests on the bench was for air leaks under compression. A leaky plug would absorb fuel or water and misfire or fail altogether. Usually plugs have a torque value around 15 or 20 ft.lbs. if they aren't installed tight enough they will eventually back out.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2014
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Replaced both plugs and wires
Starts OK. Runs rough on take-off and middle range acceleration - wish I had a tach.
Like I said, I probably have more to look at now.
Not really having the resources (space, lift, etc.) to pull the engine myself. It may end up at a local mechanics shop to replace all gaskets on the engine and transmission. Obviously would have him look at the internals to see what needs to be done to make it more dependable.
May be dreaming there with taxes due.
Might be getting rid of the Harley, so that might offset some of the expected expenses associated with the f100 repairs.
Starts OK. Runs rough on take-off and middle range acceleration - wish I had a tach.
Like I said, I probably have more to look at now.
Not really having the resources (space, lift, etc.) to pull the engine myself. It may end up at a local mechanics shop to replace all gaskets on the engine and transmission. Obviously would have him look at the internals to see what needs to be done to make it more dependable.
May be dreaming there with taxes due.
Might be getting rid of the Harley, so that might offset some of the expected expenses associated with the f100 repairs.
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