My question is simple. Will a 351W Y-Pipe clear the transmission crossmember if bolted to a 302?

My issue is an exhaust leak after installing these shorty headers below:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g9035/overview/

The collector on them is 2.5in. Which is larger than the 302's stock Y-Pipe flanges. I've tried gaskets and tried Sealers and it will not hold.

SO...the stock 351W's Y-Pipe is 2.5in at the flanges but I know that the engine has a taller deck height.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mpe-93312/overview/

I have never compared them as this is the first Windsor family engine I've owned so I don't even know if it's a direct bolt on or if the 351W is also a little wider.

If it does bolt fit do you think it'll drop too low and hit the crossmember?

I'm just trying to get rid of this exhaust leak there without having to remove the headers cause I am sure I can't return them. The description says they bolt right up, which they did, just don't seal haha. Oh and I've pretty much bent up the flanges on my Y-Pipe so I'm ready to replace it but I want to eliminate this issue at the same time.

 

Won't work. The 351 is wider. Your options at this point are to either have a custom one made that fits, or get an aftermarket on for the 5.0.

 

Hey Dready, Virginia Beach here. If you have a friend with a welder it wouldn't take much to mod your existing y so that everything sealed up. I would offer but my job has me swamped currently.

 

As previously stated the 5.8L y - pipe is made for a wider engine and manifold outlet angles are different too.

 

A muffler shop should be able to message your 5.0 Y pipe to better fit the headers.

 

Thought I'd post here instead of starting a new thread. This issue has been resolved. To the tune of $300, which is the same price I would've spent to buy the correct headers. Truck's nice and quiet now and I doubt I'll make it louder. I deer hunt and a quiet truck has it's advantages in my mind.

I do have another issue I need to tackle though. I have the idle problem that has been discussed before I believe. Sometimes when disengaging the clutch (pressing the pedal in) the idle won't drop. It'll stay as high as 2500. You snap the throttle it'll drop to where it's supposed to be. This is after the truck is warm mind you.

I'm going to redo my plenum gasket as I'm using RTV right now, but the truck did this before I ever removed the plenum. And that gasket wasn't broken I just don't reuse them. I broke my brand new one and had to RTV it just to finish up that night. But like I said truck did this before I did any engine work to it. I swapped my 300 I6 IACV onto it and that didn't help. The 302 one is back on it. Once truck is warm if I unplug IACV truck idles right at about 500rpms, with it plugged in idle is like 900RPMS. But it won't start unplugged without opening throttle of course. I don't think IACV is bad but I plan to replace anyways. I'm thinking some other vacuum leak besides the plenum or maybe a bad input to the PCM causing it to jack idle up.

Anybody know what it is right off bat?

 

Engine coolant sensor? Could keep the engine in the cold start cycle. Did you check for codes?

 

Yea I thought about that and haven't replaced it yet. And no I haven't had the chance to check my codes lately. When I first got the truck and it was doing this the only code I had was that the EGR wasn't completely closed. Which shouldn't be there now cause I have a brand new EGR Valve and tube and sensor.

I'm gonna try and check them today I just been too busy fixing everyone else's cars.