removing rivets
Agree but I've needed to go a step further by drilling into the center of the rivet to about 1/4" depth or close, then have used a drift to drive the rivet out. Drilling the hole allows the remaining wall of the rivet to collapse in toward the drift thus releasing its grip on the surrounding hole. Stu
I have removed the head completely with a cold chisel then punched out the rest. Normally use a three pound hammer on the chisel.
Later I used a cut off wheel to grind an X in the head of the rivet and remove the rest with a cold chisel, much easier and saves on grinding disks. With the X cut it can be much easier to remove the rest of the head and might not even need a 3 lb hammer.
Later I used a cut off wheel to grind an X in the head of the rivet and remove the rest with a cold chisel, much easier and saves on grinding disks. With the X cut it can be much easier to remove the rest of the head and might not even need a 3 lb hammer.
I've had rivets that held so tight in the holes that I bent a frame rail trying to get them out without the pilot holes. Others have come out fine with just the BFH. Have also had some where the holes didn't line up right at the factory but the rivet got squeezed in anyway. The rivets were put in cold and set under huge hydraulic pressure. Stu
I've had rivets that held so tight in the holes that I bent a frame rail trying to get them out without the pilot holes. Others have come out fine with just the BFH. Have also had some where the holes didn't line up right at the factory but the rivet got squeezed in anyway. The rivets were put in cold and set under huge hydraulic pressure. Stu
Yes I have seen them where they mushroom out a little inbtween the frame rail and cross member. Makes them much harder to remove.
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