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Old Apr 3, 2014 | 11:33 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Bonanza35
I hate to say your wrong because I like your posts but I bought the first picture last year from ford. The part number is#F81A 6A949AB. I haven't even installed it yet so I have it in my hand. The last one was broke by a fool who was suppost to be resealing my Diff. What he was doing up there I don't know. Anyway I just thought I would post this guys.
I'm GLAD you said I was wrong. That is the whole point of a "forum"... crowd sourcing everyone's experience. Mine wasn't as good as yours, and I hadn't revisited the issue in over 10 years, ever since I was sent the newest cover even though I ordered the 2000 one (with VIN, correct part number etc.)

I've not been successful in finding the cover that you got last year Bonanza35. What was the full part number you ordered? F81Z-6A949-AA?

F81Z should be the prefix to the one the OP is looking for. (1st picture).

YC3Z is likely the prefix to the one the OP received. (2nd picture).

The engineering number to the second picture is YC35-6A949-AB.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 12:39 PM
  #17  
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Figured I would post a link to the one I ordered since that will be easier than trying to take a picture and do all that ....

www.dfuser.com/mfg/powerstroke/73/Accessories/Engine%20Covers.php
 

Last edited by HAMMERDOWN103; Apr 4, 2014 at 12:42 PM. Reason: Correcting link
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 01:16 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by HAMMERDOWN103
Figured I would post a link to the one I ordered since that will be easier than trying to take a picture and do all that ....

www.dfuser.com/mfg/powerstroke/73/Accessories/Engine%20Covers.php
Linky no worky.

I think you're trying to post a link to this one, yes?



Stewart
 
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 01:36 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Stewart_H
Linky no worky.

I think you're trying to post a link to this one, yes?



Stewart
Yes thanks!
 
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 07:31 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Y2KW57
I'm GLAD you said I was wrong. That is the whole point of a "forum"... crowd sourcing everyone's experience. Mine wasn't as good as yours, and I hadn't revisited the issue in over 10 years, ever since I was sent the newest cover even though I ordered the 2000 one (with VIN, correct part number etc.)

I've not been successful in finding the cover that you got last year Bonanza35. What was the full part number you ordered? F81Z-6A949-AA?

F81Z should be the prefix to the one the OP is looking for. (1st picture).

YC3Z is likely the prefix to the one the OP received. (2nd picture).

The engineering number to the second picture is YC35-6A949-AB.
I don't have the paper work any more but the number I posted was the number on the back of the new cover. I would go down and use that number. I believe I posted this also way back and somebody else got one as well. No problem, I just thought I would post what I got. I wasn't happy with the guy that broke it when he wasn't even suppost to be working there to begin with. I would of done the work myself except it says 450# torq on the nut on the dana 80 diff.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 08:11 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by HAMMERDOWN103
Yes thanks!
That is going to look cool on your truck. When I seen the one you got last year it gave me the idea of making my own similar in concept. I just haven't finished figuring it out. I want mine to cover more of the engine. When I get it done I'll post a photo of it.
It won't be until it warms up around here.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 08:31 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by BadDogKuzz
That is going to look cool on your truck. When I seen the one you got last year it gave me the idea of making my own similar in concept. I just haven't finished figuring it out. I want mine to cover more of the engine. When I get it done I'll post a photo of it.
It won't be until it warms up around here.
Should I check back in June or July ?
 
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 09:00 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by nlemerise
Should I check back in June or July ?
Neal at the rate it is warming up around here this spring or should I say the lack of warming up. ...I think it just might be at least June. LOL

Also my E99 had the plastic bracket that I broke. But thanks to IndyF350/ Bill for hooking me up with a late model metal mount bracket that is going to work for me.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 09:54 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Bonanza35
the number I posted was the number on the back of the new cover.
Sure enough, my eyes glossed over the engineering number you posted the first time. Thank you!

Originally Posted by Bonanza35
I would of done the work myself except it says 450# torq on the nut on the dana 80 diff.

I have a 600 ft lb torque wrench for just those occasions. But setting up a rear end right is a talent best honed with practice, so I might have deferred that work as well, even with the right tools on hand.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 10:01 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by guitarpicr
Thats my preference also - Makes it easy to change the filter
Me too....That piece of plastic went the way of the Dodo AGES ago....
 
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 10:35 PM
  #26  
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What isn't clear to me is how much that little piece of plastic contributes to managing the engine driven airflow over the top of the engine toward the turbo.

In all four factory designs, despite their differences in coverage and shape along their sides, there is one thing in common:

They all have a very smooth radius curve over the top of the HPOP reservoir, as if they were intended to swiftly sweep engine fan directed cooling air efficiently over the top of the engine toward the heat trapping dog house in the firewall, where the turbo sits.

The engine cover would appear to help prevent the engine fan driven air from being buffeted back or made more turbulent by the blocky haphazard "cityscape" along the top of the engine, particularly that flat front HPOP reservoir. The smooth curve over the top afforded by the cover would appear to decrease the resistance to air flowing over the top of the motor and down the dog house, to manage elevated under hood temperatures at the turbo and down the transmission tunnel, where the torque converter is cooking also.

This is conjecture on my part. But Ford and GM have taken steps to manage the underhood airflow and heat rejection within the tighter confines of diesel pickups. Witness Ford's fender vents, and GM's hood mounted cowl vents. By comparison, the same diesel engines in medium duty TopKicks and Kodiaks, as well as the International 4300s and 4400s with the same 7.3L, had larger engine bays than pickup trucks. The t444e does not have the engine cover that swoops over the top.

Absent of heat releasing features like hood vents or fender vents, I would imagine that most of the heat rejection air flow in a 99-03 is expected to be pushed down and out via the transmission tunnel. If none of this make sense, or if anyone has clarifying information, it would be a great addition to this thread on these engine covers.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2014 | 08:32 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Y2KW57
What isn't clear to me is how much that little piece of plastic contributes to managing the engine driven airflow over the top of the engine toward the turbo.

In all four factory designs, despite their differences in coverage and shape along their sides, there is one thing in common:

They all have a very smooth radius curve over the top of the HPOP reservoir, as if they were intended to swiftly sweep engine fan directed cooling air efficiently over the top of the engine toward the heat trapping dog house in the firewall, where the turbo sits.

The engine cover would appear to help prevent the engine fan driven air from being buffeted back or made more turbulent by the blocky haphazard "cityscape" along the top of the engine, particularly that flat front HPOP reservoir. The smooth curve over the top afforded by the cover would appear to decrease the resistance to air flowing over the top of the motor and down the dog house, to manage elevated under hood temperatures at the turbo and down the transmission tunnel, where the torque converter is cooking also.

This is conjecture on my part. But Ford and GM have taken steps to manage the underhood airflow and heat rejection within the tighter confines of diesel pickups. Witness Ford's fender vents, and GM's hood mounted cowl vents. By comparison, the same diesel engines in medium duty TopKicks and Kodiaks, as well as the International 4300s and 4400s with the same 7.3L, had larger engine bays than pickup trucks. The t444e does not have the engine cover that swoops over the top.

Absent of heat releasing features like hood vents or fender vents, I would imagine that most of the heat rejection air flow in a 99-03 is expected to be pushed down and out via the transmission tunnel. If none of this make sense, or if anyone has clarifying information, it would be a great addition to this thread on these engine covers.
I don't know if Ford intended the design to work that way on the 99-03 7.3. But it makes sense and I do believe that there are benefits to be gained by creating better air flow over the top of the engine. I think you have make some great points. This is exactly why I am trying to come up with a design of a engine cover that not only looks good but also help improve air flow under the hood. So here are a couple of things I am trying to do with my design.
1: Try to create air flow around the IC pipes. Or at least restrict the heat from the engine coming up on the bottom of the IC pipes.
2: Direct the fan air flow smoothly over the top of the engine and to the doghouse area. So it goes up over and down and out.
3: I do not want to cover the front of the hpop res. I want to keep some air flow under the cover. This way you have layers of air flow from the fan and air coming though the front of the truck.
4: I want it to clean up the look under the hood. The 7.3 really isn't much to look at.

Thank you for pointing these things out it helps comfirm some of things I was thinking about.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2014 | 07:50 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by BadDogKuzz
Also my E99 had the plastic bracket that I broke. But thanks to IndyF350/ Bill for hooking me up with a late model metal mount bracket that is going to work for me.
My plastic mounting bracket has broken 3 times now. Epoxied it twice and I just broke it again. Done with it. I am thinking about going the newer style cover and ditching the early 99 one. Do you have a part number on the metal mounting bracket?
 
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Old Apr 5, 2014 | 08:28 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Firefighter 1406
My plastic mounting bracket has broken 3 times now. Epoxied it twice and I just broke it again. Done with it. I am thinking about going the newer style cover and ditching the early 99 one. Do you have a part number on the metal mounting bracket?
Seth I just went to the garage looking for the bracket 20 minutes later I found it and an other 15 minutes to find my old bracket and E99 cover. I need to spend more time out there finding things> LOL
Well the old metal mount bracket is so rusty I did not see any part# but I did take the time to match it up to the old busted up E99 bracket and cover. It looks like you can use the metal bracket with the E99 cover, the metal studs are in the same place as the E99 cover. The only difference I seen was the metal bracket might be 1/2" taller. But it was hard to tell since my E99 bracket was busted up on the bottom end.

When I sand blast the mount bracket if I find part# I post it here on this thread.
 
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