I have a 1985 f250 manual 300l6.
I'm rebuilding the feedback carbed motor and putting a 4brl on it.
I will have to get rid of the feedback electronics.
I'm looking at a dui dizzy with built in icm and coil.
So it only needs a start wire and kill wire. How would I wire this up to my ignition system, meaning key switch.
And would I have to get a new harness? Or could I just wire a flip switch to start the motor and leave the harness be? I have real gauges so I'm not worried about anything but Speedo and fuel and odometer.
Thank you

 

Did you have DSII or TFI before?

You don't need a kill switch, you just need to stop feeding power to the coil.

 

I have the feedback set up, so I think it's the tfi. It has the same module that mustangs had

 

How can I do that if the coil and distributor are integrated?

 

TFI had no inline coil resistor.
Just connect the old coil+ wire to the DUI, or use a relay like KsCop did.

I think his writeup is in the stickies at the top of this section.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...emissions.html

 

How can you do -what- if the new DUI is an all in one?

 

I don't think your getting what I'm saying.
The distributor I'm getting has the coil and icm built into. I only need a start wire and spark plugs and spark plug wires and my ignition setup complete.
How can I integrate that into my tfi wiring harness.

 

Follow the TFI harness back to the connector and pick up the coil positive wire.
That should have full voltage in start and run.

You don't need the whole TFI harness, only the coil wire.

 

Okay, is there a spot on the harness that has a plug that I can remove most the wiring? I'd like to clean up the bay since I'm not going to need all the wires and vacuum lines anymore.

 

Oh, you got the "racing" version without any vacuum advance?

Just follow the wires back.
It should be pretty obvious where the connectors are beneath the brake booster.

 

I got the only one for a 300 it's like 350$ but has it all. I have deployment money aha.

 

Look for a blue/white or white/blue wire going to the old coil. You can get a testlight and put it on this wire to make sure it works the way it should. Key in start and run, testlight on, key in off, testlight off.

 

I see the "Street/Strip" version for $369 on their website.

I guess you'll need ported vacuum for that one.

 

I think I'll let the engine builders figure that out.

 

The manufacturer suggests manifold vacuum.
http://performancedistributors.com/w...ordownerss.pdf

Why are you even asking if someone else is doing the work for you?