i need help!!!
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i need help!!!
i need help!!!
i have a 64 f100 with an early 80's carbureted 302. i have had trouble with the alternator light on the instrument cluster staying on, it finally killed my battery and so i charged it up and then i had starter solenoid problems so i replaced it and hooked it up the same way as the bad one had been. it fixed that problem so i focused back on the alternator. I cut the harness off and discovered that one of the wires had broken. it was a yellow one to be exact. i hooked this back together with a but connection and stated the truck up. after i got the rpms up the light went off and the alternator was charging. i drove it down the road and stopped a couple places and truck cut off fine but when i drove home and turned the key off the truck continued to run like i hadn't turned it (runs like a motor should, sits and idles fine). i pulled the battery cables off and it continued to run. only way i got it to cut off was to choke it out. does this every time i try to cut it off with the ignition switch. can anyone tell me what could be wrong?
i have a 64 f100 with an early 80's carbureted 302. i have had trouble with the alternator light on the instrument cluster staying on, it finally killed my battery and so i charged it up and then i had starter solenoid problems so i replaced it and hooked it up the same way as the bad one had been. it fixed that problem so i focused back on the alternator. I cut the harness off and discovered that one of the wires had broken. it was a yellow one to be exact. i hooked this back together with a but connection and stated the truck up. after i got the rpms up the light went off and the alternator was charging. i drove it down the road and stopped a couple places and truck cut off fine but when i drove home and turned the key off the truck continued to run like i hadn't turned it (runs like a motor should, sits and idles fine). i pulled the battery cables off and it continued to run. only way i got it to cut off was to choke it out. does this every time i try to cut it off with the ignition switch. can anyone tell me what could be wrong?
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2005
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It is obviously getting 12v from someplace it shouldn't. You can start by disconnecting the wire from the "I" terminal on the solinoid. .If that fixes it the solinoid you bought is bad.
If it doesn't, disconnect the plug under the dash on the pink resistor wire, if that fixes it the ignition switch is bad.
If neither of those things fix it, you shorted something out so your gonna have to look around under the hood and see what happened.
If it doesn't, disconnect the plug under the dash on the pink resistor wire, if that fixes it the ignition switch is bad.
If neither of those things fix it, you shorted something out so your gonna have to look around under the hood and see what happened.
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i just went outside to try what you told me. i stuck key in switch and turned it to on. truck has no power what so ever and will not even blow horn. do you know what the problem is now that this has happened?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2005
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IF you had to choke the engine to shut it off, then the coil had power and killed the battery. It's part of the same problem. Charge the battery and start it up and see if one of those wires will kill the engine.
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Ok so I charged the battery and put it in and started the truck and turned off the key and it cut off so I drove it for aproximity 45 mins and came home and turned the key and it didn't cut off so I took the I wire off solinod and it stayed on so I took the connection at the coil loose and truck turned off. Noticed that coil connection had power so I left it unhooked. Does this sound like I need a key switch?
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From: Simi Valley, CA
should I have it running?61.49" long / Color coded pink / 1.30-1.40 ohms resistance / #20 gauge wire.
Applications: All 1960/70 FoMoCo vehicles.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Yeah - it does, kinda. Assuming everything is connected/wired up right. They are pretty cheap too. Just remove the lock cylinder and replace just the switch part. Gotta be a contortionist to get to it, other than that not too bad.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2005
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All you proved is what we already knew, there was power to the coil.
At this point the switch is still a guess.
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so i noticed that the wire i disconnected on the solenoid was the s wire but when i hooked it back up every thing ran fine for a couple days but to day i had it do the same thing. went under the hood and made sure i disconnected the i wire this time. and it cut off. so 100% sure that i need to get a new solenoid. could it be bad if it starts the vehicle no problem?