This is the casting number for the trans case only .. it's not the trans ID number.

The trans ID tag is located under one of the bolts that retains the servo cover to the case (left side). I don't see it, so it's probably missing by now, which is common.

This is not a 1974 only case, in fact the casting prefix is related to 1973 (D3OP). but...

1973/79 Passenger Car C4 with 200/250 I-6 & 302/351C/351W: There are two different cases. One has an hole for the dipstick tube, the other does not.

351C = 1970/74 Passenger Cars/Ranchero's only.

 

So you think the engine/trans came as a combo from the same car?

My power steering pump & bracket research told me early 70s torino on the engine but I figured the trans to be from something else. Not sure why I thought that other than the scarcity of 351c/t4 combos.

 

I'm any case I dropped the tranny off @ the shop this morning. Should be back by the end of the week.

I picked up a harbor freight atv/motorcycle jack. It was $ 12 more than the trans jack & I figured it would get more use.

 

Just got the call from the tranny shop. Trans is done!

I asked him what the issue was with it - was it the pump or what?

He said "the last guy that was in there didin't know what the he!! he was doing, he had the drum all messed up".

So there you have it - I'll pick it up on the way home from work tonight. Heck - I may even be able to get it installed before this weekend. I have some committments this week, but I also have a few evenings free.

Though I am disappointed in having to shell out the cash to have this done - it was seriously less expensive than I expected it to be. Plus, there are a number of things I have been wanting to get to but have avoided because I could drive the truck.

With it up on blocks & half torn down, why not go ahead & re-bush the rear end & adjust the exhaust the way I want?

I'll let you guys know how the install goes with my new atv jack.

 

$400 - rebuilt trans


More casting markings




I spend last evening working on fixing the rear end. The builder did kind of a half correct job of locating the Jag crossmember in the frame - he used stacks of washers.

The washers are smaller in diameter than the rubber bushing in the end of the cross member


So when I step on the gas hard - the entire rear end pushes forward compressing the rubber bushing & driving the drive shaft into the back of the trans. It moves forward so far it actually shifts the transmisison from drive into 2.

I pulled all of these silly washers out & installed a new solid rubber bushing that is of larger diameter than the one in there.

Believe it or not - I'm actually using hockey pucks! The pucks are hard rubber of the perfect thickness so no washers are needed. They locate the axel right where I want it & are large enough that they do not slip inside the rubber bushing.

Tonight I need to drill the holes & install the new bolts. Then I can start installing the trans.

I also painted the exhaust that I had to remove with a ceramic 2000 degree exhaust paint. That should keep it looking new for some time.

 

Do you have an over all view of that jag rear end installation ?
Something just doesn't seem right , it should not move much at all under hard acceleration .

 

Congrats on the tranny. Was the rebuilder not able to ID the unit???
Hockey pucks are quite handy to have around. I drilled and installed 4 under the feet of my compressor. reduced the noise by ~ 1/2 and it hasn't moved an inch on my urethane coated concrete floor. I also use them to make custom shaped resilient body dollys since they saw, drill and sand to shape pretty easily, and you could even drill and handle one or two to make a round rubber hammer. They are cheap and easy to find if you are in a hockey area.

 

I thought I added pics of the rear last night.

Oh well.

Yes the pucks worked great! They were the perfect thickness for the space I needed to fill in front.

Plus they cut easily on the band saw if I need one thinner.

I ran out of time yesterday & have things going on tonight, but should have it back in & all buttoned up by Saturday afternoon.

Though I've turned lots of wrenches in my day this is the first trans I've pulled.

On these old trucks at least they are not that bad.

Not that I want to do this again, but I have enjoyed the wrench time.

Unfortunately I blew the budget for the year on this, so now I need to raise money to do the work I had planned.

I want to get the gas tank out of the cab & build a good set of seats & seat belts.

 

Holy crap I made a MAJOR MISTAKE!!

OMG I can't believe what a stupid rookie screw up I am.

I installed the new transmission last night. I had the truck buttoned up by 9pm & was checking everything out.

I had the rear wheels up & put it in gear.

The drive shaft was happily spinning but not the wheels. Oh SNAP! It wasn't the transmission I blew it was the stupid jag rear end!

What am i going to do now?

 

LOL, sorry but I can only imagine the look on your face. I wonder if the trans was bad too??

About all you can do economically is find another Jag rear end.

 

Just think of it as insurance. Now you know the trans is good.

 

Rear should be a lot cheaper and easier to repair unless you broke a CV joint, those are a bit pricy. Parts are easy to come by too.

 

CV joints are good - its the pinion & ring - I suspect the teeth blew off the pinion.

Now you can't just leave me hanging like that - how/where do I find the parts?

I've never tried to rebuild the rear - from what I've seen from my 4x4 days - its about $1000 per pumpkin.

I've seen a couple on ebay - but the cheap ones are no where close to me.

What a mess - I wish I could swap in a 9 inch.

 

are the internals really just a Dana 44?

Can I get any ring & pinion from a 44 & install them into this carrier?

I'm going to be crying about this for weeks - but if its really a 44 then I may be able to find the parts & find a local shop to rebuild it for me.

 

I've heard it is based on the D44, but who knows? It sure appears to be a Dana unit from this page, but it also depends what year your unit is:

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