BLOWN transmission - need help
#16
#19
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#21
Sorry to hear about your C4.
If you do buy a used automatic transmission expect to rebuild it/have it rebuilt. Installing a unknown used one is a crap shoot at the best.
If you are mechanically inclined the C4 is pretty easy to rebuild. I would say the hardest part is rebuilding the valve body. And that isn't too bad if you lay things out in order as you disassemble it. Get a good manual and a rebuild DVD wouldn't be a bad idea either. Sometimes it helps seeing someone else do it first.
But like some others have said if you do rebuild yours, replace the torque convertor.
And make sure to flush out( or replace ) all your coolers & cooler lines.
And the biggest thing is when you reinstall the torque convertor make sure it is seated completely or you will destroy your transmission pump.
If you do buy a used automatic transmission expect to rebuild it/have it rebuilt. Installing a unknown used one is a crap shoot at the best.
If you are mechanically inclined the C4 is pretty easy to rebuild. I would say the hardest part is rebuilding the valve body. And that isn't too bad if you lay things out in order as you disassemble it. Get a good manual and a rebuild DVD wouldn't be a bad idea either. Sometimes it helps seeing someone else do it first.
But like some others have said if you do rebuild yours, replace the torque convertor.
And make sure to flush out( or replace ) all your coolers & cooler lines.
And the biggest thing is when you reinstall the torque convertor make sure it is seated completely or you will destroy your transmission pump.
#23
Here it is.
I can't stress enough the difficulty of removing a transmission from a vehicle that is 4 inches off the ground!
It still looks new
1974 pad fill C4
I will repaint the bell housing black before reinstalling - the cross member too.
Interestingly enough the torque converter has a sticker that says
"if sticker removed warranty is void 6/28/2013"
I received a folder of receipts with the truck when I bought it - I went back through & no luck - nothing on who built the trans
I did find a $1650 receipt for the top end rebuild in 2008 - rebuilt the heads etc.
I'll drop the tranny off at the shop tomorrow.
Now I need to turn my attention to what is destroying transmissions on my truck.
Couple things about my truck - 1) from the first day I got it - I could hear a loud clunk when I shifted into drive or reverse from park. I've been around long enough to know this is usually u-joints - it wasn't - I never could figure out where the noise was coming from. Now I suspect it was something inside the trans - its been jacked up since I got it.
2) the jag rear end is mounted to a cross member with rubber bushings at each side of the frame. This is centered in the frame by washers. When I would step on the gas (sometimes not that hard - but definitely under hard acceleration) the rear end would push forward far enough to move the shifter from drive into 2nd gear. I need to remount or re-bush this rear axel cross member so I don't keep slamming the drive shaft yolk into the guts of the trans. I suspect this is what is eating transmissions - or it could just be completely over powered by the 351c.
We shall see!
I can't stress enough the difficulty of removing a transmission from a vehicle that is 4 inches off the ground!
It still looks new
1974 pad fill C4
I will repaint the bell housing black before reinstalling - the cross member too.
Interestingly enough the torque converter has a sticker that says
"if sticker removed warranty is void 6/28/2013"
I received a folder of receipts with the truck when I bought it - I went back through & no luck - nothing on who built the trans
I did find a $1650 receipt for the top end rebuild in 2008 - rebuilt the heads etc.
I'll drop the tranny off at the shop tomorrow.
Now I need to turn my attention to what is destroying transmissions on my truck.
Couple things about my truck - 1) from the first day I got it - I could hear a loud clunk when I shifted into drive or reverse from park. I've been around long enough to know this is usually u-joints - it wasn't - I never could figure out where the noise was coming from. Now I suspect it was something inside the trans - its been jacked up since I got it.
2) the jag rear end is mounted to a cross member with rubber bushings at each side of the frame. This is centered in the frame by washers. When I would step on the gas (sometimes not that hard - but definitely under hard acceleration) the rear end would push forward far enough to move the shifter from drive into 2nd gear. I need to remount or re-bush this rear axel cross member so I don't keep slamming the drive shaft yolk into the guts of the trans. I suspect this is what is eating transmissions - or it could just be completely over powered by the 351c.
We shall see!
#26
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#28
I stopped in harbor freight the other day & they had a trans jack for just under $100.
I wasn't expecting to drop money on a new trans this month, so another Hundo for a jack is a pinch.
That said.....$100 jack is less than my deductible in case I drop the tranny on my head.
I'll drop the tranny at the shop in the morning & will pick up the jack by the end of the week.
YUCK - more showering her with gifts.
My wife's birthday is in a couple weeks - maybe I can get her a trans jack?! Think she will like it?
I wasn't expecting to drop money on a new trans this month, so another Hundo for a jack is a pinch.
That said.....$100 jack is less than my deductible in case I drop the tranny on my head.
I'll drop the tranny at the shop in the morning & will pick up the jack by the end of the week.
YUCK - more showering her with gifts.
My wife's birthday is in a couple weeks - maybe I can get her a trans jack?! Think she will like it?
#29
As far as killing transmissions make sure that nub on the converter fits ok into the crankshaft and there is no binding or anything holding it from seating, like an old pilot bushing left over from a stick shift setup (seen that often). Excessive crankshaft freeplay can also be a problem.
If there is any pressure on the converter it will take out the pump in the trans in short order. With the trans bolted up to the engine you should be able to slide the converter forward to meet the flexplate easily and it should spin by hand easily before you bolt it up to the flexplate.
I am curious to hear if the front pump is shot.
Before I got a lift I used to take the trans out by jacking up the front of the vehicle and putting ramps under the front wheels and jackstands under the frame. Plenty of room with the vehicle about a foot off the ground.
If there is any pressure on the converter it will take out the pump in the trans in short order. With the trans bolted up to the engine you should be able to slide the converter forward to meet the flexplate easily and it should spin by hand easily before you bolt it up to the flexplate.
I am curious to hear if the front pump is shot.
Before I got a lift I used to take the trans out by jacking up the front of the vehicle and putting ramps under the front wheels and jackstands under the frame. Plenty of room with the vehicle about a foot off the ground.
#30
I feel your pain, I went thru this with an EBAY rebuilt C4 not long b4 you joined, I have had it out 7 times now (so I really do understand). I have one album of my rebuild woe's, one of swapping it out, one on adjusting the bands, and one of adding the block/trans seperator plate. I'm an amateur and I had problems since the PO had put parts in backwards which I copied, so do not use my work as a how to, use the books and videos for that like the ones that have already been mentioned. But at least you can get an Idea of what's inside, and I do have comments for each pic. All in all, IM glad I went thru the process, If it had been correct when I disassembled, it would have gone pretty well. My changing tranny year From a 68 to a 70 also caused trouble with input shat spline count. Best of luck to you. Oh yea do yourself a favor invest in a transjack or equivalent.