When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So a few weeks ago my truck shut down on me on the highway. Turned out to be a sensor. But the dealer informed me that my up-pipe and high side turbo are in need of replacing. I knew I had an exhaust leak, and now I can see the soot right above the turbo on the hood, as well as the flexible part of the pipe. They want almost $5K to pull the cab and replace.
I haven't had time to get another quote, as I can't afford anything near that right now anyway. But I'm wondering 2 things. First, if I jack up the cab 8", can I replace these myself? Or, even better, if I get a tuner to turn the DPF and EGR off, won't this stop the exhaust from even coming through this pipe? That would give me 1 1/2 years to either pony up for the repair to pass emmissions, or move away from this city, which has been a thought anyway. And it would be a really good reason for the wife to ok the tuner.
There has been a celophane flapping sounding whistle since I bought the truck last November. My BIL looked at it, and thought it was an exhaust manifold. But the exhaust smell is very strong in the cab at startup, and almost unbearable during low speed regen, which it has been doing every 100 miles or less lately. It was around 200 miles until I went on a cross country trip for Christmas.
The flexible joint on the drivers side is sooty, as well as the joint that connects the turbo to the turbo cooler(?) closest to the master cylinder. The codes they found were P200E Catalyst over Tem Bank 1, and P242E EG sensor fault bank 1. They fixed the sensor, and said the leak is coming from the high side turbo charge and egr to turbo pipe, causing frequent regen, clogging of dpf, loss of power and exhaust smell.
I am dealing with Turbo issue as well. I found outIF EGR is operating properly you can delete EGR without installing a kit and DPF delete by changing pipe (gearbox.com). The problem I found with that is the coolant can still run through your EGR coolers etc. If there is any issue with them, PROBLEM. Easiest to get a EGR/DPF delete kit and install. The UP pipe is definitely a pain. If you are just replacing the Turbo without doing the EGR delete, it is not fun, but can do. There is a thread in here that helped me considerably. Don't forget that once the EGR/DPF is done, you now have a farm or race truck. I also found a EGR delete kit by sinister, and you don't have to remove the UP pipe. It caps after second EGR cooler as it enters the UP pipe. This was all new to me at first, but this forum and powerstrokehelp.com was helpful. There are some you tube videos that are very informative.
BTW. Don't feel bad. I had mine for 4 months now and spent more fixing than have made payments. It had 170,000 miles. First diesel has not been a joy. Truck is beautiful though. Expensive yard ornament.
Just an update: Hauling a big load last Monday into the mountain zoo, the firewall insulation right above the leaks caught fire. Luckily I got it out before it did any damage, other than the insulation. So took the truck to a reputable diesel mechanic in town that changed the DOC and both upipes for just over $2300.
Man does this thing have some power now! I don't know if my economy will go up, but it seems the DPF cleaning cycle frequency is a LITTLE less.