Long story short: Had an old build thread, it was a mess, so new year, same truck, we're starting fresh.

The truck: 1996 Ford Bronco XLT (pictures to come)

Mass Air Flow 351Windsor:
-Hedman long tube headers, MSD plugs/wires,
-K&N air filter
-301,000 miles (no smoke, no leaks)
E4OD transmission married to a BW1356 manual shift t-case.
-Rebuilt in 2013, has ~4,000 miles on them both

Axles:
Front - Dana 44 TTB. 4.10 gears. stock internals
Rear - Ford 8.8. 4.10 gears. Stock internals
Wheels/tires - 33" Pro comp A/T's with 15" Wagon wheels

Body:
- "DISASTER"

Frame:
- Solid yet typical rust covered

 

Upgrades: (I am willing to take all opinions/advice - Negative/positive)

Engine:
-Turning the old 451W into a 408w (Got talked out of all other engine choices)
-Get tuner
-Air raid intake? (Dry not wet)
-Forced induction? Price v necessity

Parts: (90% summit racing)
-Probe pistons (PN:PBP-12355-030)
-BBK Power plus series throttle body (PN:BBK-1503)
-Comp cams Xtreme energy camshaft (PN:CCA-35-320-8)
-TFX Fuel Injectors (PN:TFS-89024)
-Trick Flow R-Series intake (PN:TFS-51511004)
-Federal Mogul Re-ring kit (PN:FEM-2056116M311)
Edelbrock Performer RPMs Aluminum Heads 170cc ported, double spring (no rockers but PO had aluminum 1.6 rockers)
Summit wish list didn't save my rocker choice so I will have to find those again

Transmission/t-case:
-Untouched (maybe shift kit)

Axles:
Front - Dana 60 High Pinion (Found one in Fenton $700 with 4.10s)
Rear - Sterling 10.25 (Still looking, haven't checked boneyards)
Want to try for 8-lug, all disc brakes

Body:
Exterior:
-FiberwerX Fiberglass fenders ($350 for pair)
-FiberwerX Fiberglass quarterpanels ($400 for pair)
-New tailgate shell
-Possibly try to sand frame
-Redo last years mistakes on doors, hood and roof
-Weather stripping

Interior:
-New door panels
-Repair/replace all trim pieces
-Upgrade seats? (Newer seats - Leather v cloth)
-Rubber front flooring, redo bed liner in rear
-Replace center counsel with fabricated one

Electrical:
-Electronic door locks (quit working 1-2 years ago)
-Blower fan only works on high
-Replace bulb in gauge cluster
-check on rear defroster
-Replace exterior tailgate window switch (only works one way)
-Rewire front foglights
-Wire new foglights

 

I'll bite . I like build threads some times. My own is a few pages deep but I haven't touched it in a while. Maybe one day I'll re-read though it all...

 

The biggest hold ups right now:
1) weather
2) crappy welder
3) garageless

 

I have an Eddie Bauer edition (Mocha) passenger side interior panel for electric windows and door locks. $125 plus shipping.

richard72942@gmail.com

 

I think I'm going to make fiberglass door panels, seen a few things and I like how I can make it how I want.

 

Well it's been a while, but it has been difficult without a garage/coverage from the weather. Been having a passenger rear brake issue so I took that apart.









The whole brake had disassembled itself on the lower half. It dislodged the adjuster and that got squished between a bad and the drum, grinding it down to unusable. The lower spring and adjuster cable were off, but the top springs stayed on. After fixing it (took way to long since it's been.. too long) It was fine and dandy for about a day. I loosened it up and had some issues sliding the drum back on (the pads refused to squeeze together on the bottom.)

Now when I roll backwards it's fine, but going forward it drags like crazy and the brake is hot hot hot! I stopped at a self wash to clear off some fluid on the rear axle, felt the driver side drum (after 20-25min drive) and I could touch the drum. Felt the passenger side and it burned my hand which was about 3" off the rim. Suggestions?

 

Saturday I was able to get over to the Hudsonville parts swap for a few hours

Saw some very beautiful trucks (will post pics.) and of course picked up some nice parts.
Blacked out grille - $10.

Beauty rings - $10 ea.


Universal flexi lite fan - $10.


8 lug front axle (forgot to get more information on it :banghead ) So I'm hoping to get some serial numbers on it. - $150 came with 2 sets of hubs, 2 sets of spindles, 5 lockouts, and leaf spring mounting brackets.


Also got a nice Dick Cepek light bar to replace my other one - $100


As for work, I got one mounting side of the light bar off, sanded (wish I could have media blasted it,) primed and painted with some stainless steel rattle can paint.




While waiting for layers to dry I got the passenger side of the axle torn down the spindle before it rained. More to come!

 

Did you replace the star adjuster? Also I'd recommend putting antiseize on it so it will adjust better. Also, how new are the wheel cylinders?

 

The wheel cylinder on that side is brand new because it went bad late last year. I replaced all the springs, adjuster and cable with new parts too since I got the kit.

 

Today I swung by the local pick-apart. Got a new headlight assembly/bezel with the trim piece underneath for $80 (pics tomorrow) and a 3/4 or 1 ton 8 lug rear axle for $250. They were very unknowledgeable about it.

Got the other side of the front axle torn down to the spindle and with the winter weather heading in that's where I had to stop. Didn't get a chance to work on the other mount for the light rack either.

Now it's on to researching what part numbers I could on the axle.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tion-help.html
any help is appreciated.

 

Today I made a discovery. In reverse the truck doesn't drag, but when I go to drive, (occasionally) it makes a clunk then it starts to drag.

 

It's probably something simple but I can't think straight right now. I've been awake for over 24 hours now... my brain is toast.

 

That's okay after I get the new axle, I will convert it to disc brakes and be done with drums on this truck forever.

Now discs all around means I have to change the master cylinder correct?

 

I'm not too sure, I remember seeing something about changing the pressure switch(I forget the name). A master cylinder upgrade might not be a bad idea anyways.