The Do-over
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,019
Likes: 2
Today I was able to get to Broncograveyard and pick up quite a few parts.. $511 worth to be exact. Saved me over $100 in shipping. Got back and was able to get the outside weatherstripping piece on the tailgate not 2 minutes before the sky grew black and it rained like hell.
Does anyone know how exactly the outside rubber pieces. Weatherstrip End, Right
How they fit on the tailgate. I think I got it, but I didn't put a screw into them because I want to make sure it's right before I put unneeded holes in the new tailgate.
Also I found out my new front axle is a D44, but I think I'm going to sell it and get a D60.
Does anyone know how exactly the outside rubber pieces. Weatherstrip End, Right
How they fit on the tailgate. I think I got it, but I didn't put a screw into them because I want to make sure it's right before I put unneeded holes in the new tailgate.
Also I found out my new front axle is a D44, but I think I'm going to sell it and get a D60.
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,019
Likes: 2
I hate having drive train opinions/options.
408 stroker - Torque monster (with my set up) have the base of what I need (block/wiring/etc.) No fabrications needed
7.3L diesel - Good fuel economy in a light truck, can be built for good power/torque. Requires donor truck which means additional money spent on getting good donor truck before being able to rebuild stuff - i.e. engine, trans (transfer case should work)
408 stroker - Torque monster (with my set up) have the base of what I need (block/wiring/etc.) No fabrications needed
7.3L diesel - Good fuel economy in a light truck, can be built for good power/torque. Requires donor truck which means additional money spent on getting good donor truck before being able to rebuild stuff - i.e. engine, trans (transfer case should work)
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,019
Likes: 2
So I've been looking around and it seems that the Ford/Sterling 10.25 doesn't have a huge variety of aftermarket support in terms of lockers and axle shafts (chromoly).
Should I keep the 10.25 or try and go with some Dana 60s? i.e. http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/pts/4462669130.html
Should I keep the 10.25 or try and go with some Dana 60s? i.e. http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/pts/4462669130.html
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,019
Likes: 2
I'm going to be keeping the Sterling 10.25 since it is a 35 spline axle compared to 30-31 spline D60s.
As for the front axle I'm not looking for ANOTHER D44 out of a f150/bronco instead of the leaf sprung HD d44 I currently have, but I will be using the spindles and such from the 8 lug on the 5 lug.
I was able to press 3 of 4 ball joints out of the D44 steering knuckles, the 4th one I will have to take into the local shop and have them press it out with a actual press.
Also since one steering knuckle is joint-less I have it in my Electrolysis rust remover at the moment. Electrolysis - Rust Removal Maybe a $25 investment for (from what I hear) quite a lengths time of investment. Larger parts just require a larger tub.
I think if you had the cash you could do a whole frame in a small pool.
Pictures to come when they finish uploading.
As for the front axle I'm not looking for ANOTHER D44 out of a f150/bronco instead of the leaf sprung HD d44 I currently have, but I will be using the spindles and such from the 8 lug on the 5 lug.
I was able to press 3 of 4 ball joints out of the D44 steering knuckles, the 4th one I will have to take into the local shop and have them press it out with a actual press.
Also since one steering knuckle is joint-less I have it in my Electrolysis rust remover at the moment. Electrolysis - Rust Removal Maybe a $25 investment for (from what I hear) quite a lengths time of investment. Larger parts just require a larger tub.
I think if you had the cash you could do a whole frame in a small pool.
Pictures to come when they finish uploading.
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,019
Likes: 2
The past 2 days have been very nice so the top has been off but not much cruising since (In personal hate/spite) I think she's an eye sore.
This is the electrolysis setup I have. 7 pieces of re-rod (18" pieces $1.68 ea.) Connected together by steel wire. Then a steel framing square on top with the steering knuckle connected to it via steel wire. Positive to the re-rod, negative to the part.
First put it in
After ~1 hour.
Currently it's still going. Has been nearly 2 hours.
This is the electrolysis setup I have. 7 pieces of re-rod (18" pieces $1.68 ea.) Connected together by steel wire. Then a steel framing square on top with the steering knuckle connected to it via steel wire. Positive to the re-rod, negative to the part.
First put it in
After ~1 hour.
Currently it's still going. Has been nearly 2 hours.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,019
Likes: 2
Current lists I have for parts:
1978/9 D44:
-Stock axle shafts vs Ultimate Dana 44 CV Axle Set for Ford F-150 ('68-'79) & Bronco ('78-'79) vs Chromoly axle shafts
-ARB air locker
-Motive 4.10 gears
-XRF steering parts
-Warn lockouts
Sterling 10.25:
-Chromoly axle shafts vs stock axle shafts
- ARB air locker
-Disc brake conversion
-Motive 4.10 gears
Engine/drivetrain:
408 stroker vs 7.3 PSD (leaning toward PSD)
-Trans rebuilt with ~3,000 miles
-Transfer case rebuilt with ~3,000 miles
Exterior body panels:
FiberwerX front/rear fenders 80-96 Ford Bronco Fenders 96 Headlight Conversion - FiberwerX Off Road Fiberglass
80-96 Ford Bronco Bedsides - FiberwerX Off Road Fiberglass
Scoop hood?
Redo body work on doors
Custom bumpers/push bars
Interior panels:
Custom fiberglass door panels
Paint or upholster dash
Carpet vs rubber floor
Roll cage
Electronics:
Add 3rd set of speakers by tailgate
Indoor/outdoor speakers
Dual batteries Dual batteries - FSB Forums
Roof rack w/ lights (suggestions on types?)
Paint:
Dark/military Green like
or a 2 tone paint job
(Picture courtesy Diesel_Brad)
I'm open to suggestions and opinions from everyone on ideas.
1978/9 D44:
-Stock axle shafts vs Ultimate Dana 44 CV Axle Set for Ford F-150 ('68-'79) & Bronco ('78-'79) vs Chromoly axle shafts
-ARB air locker
-Motive 4.10 gears
-XRF steering parts
-Warn lockouts
Sterling 10.25:
-Chromoly axle shafts vs stock axle shafts
- ARB air locker
-Disc brake conversion
-Motive 4.10 gears
Engine/drivetrain:
408 stroker vs 7.3 PSD (leaning toward PSD)
-Trans rebuilt with ~3,000 miles
-Transfer case rebuilt with ~3,000 miles
Exterior body panels:
FiberwerX front/rear fenders 80-96 Ford Bronco Fenders 96 Headlight Conversion - FiberwerX Off Road Fiberglass
80-96 Ford Bronco Bedsides - FiberwerX Off Road Fiberglass
Scoop hood?
Redo body work on doors
Custom bumpers/push bars
Interior panels:
Custom fiberglass door panels
Paint or upholster dash
Carpet vs rubber floor
Roll cage
Electronics:
Add 3rd set of speakers by tailgate
Indoor/outdoor speakers
Dual batteries Dual batteries - FSB Forums
Roof rack w/ lights (suggestions on types?)
Paint:
Dark/military Green like
or a 2 tone paint job
(Picture courtesy Diesel_Brad) I'm open to suggestions and opinions from everyone on ideas.
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,019
Likes: 2
Been working so much haven't had any time to do much work/update.
Little update:
Have been having some issues with the tailgate opening. Actually have to remove the panel piece and pull the levers by hand.
Problem 1 was that the driver side rod was trapped under the new torsion bar and problem to is that they are probably both well worn out. The driver's side one won't open all the way.
Here is how the handle sits normally.
Here is how it's supposed to sit.
Part of the problem is that the rod from the handle to the mechanism is bent so I think I need a new one of those.
Does anyone have these pieces on their tailgate?
The driver's side one sits like this nice and flush (no screws in it yet as per suggestion from JBG.)
But this is as good as I can get the passenger one to rest.
Thoughts?
Lastly and update on the Electrolysis:
Before:
After: (Not the exact same one but they turned out the same.)
You can even read the parts numbers now.
That's all for now, not that anyone but me reads this.
Little update:
Have been having some issues with the tailgate opening. Actually have to remove the panel piece and pull the levers by hand.
Problem 1 was that the driver side rod was trapped under the new torsion bar and problem to is that they are probably both well worn out. The driver's side one won't open all the way.
Here is how the handle sits normally.
Here is how it's supposed to sit.
Part of the problem is that the rod from the handle to the mechanism is bent so I think I need a new one of those.
Does anyone have these pieces on their tailgate?
The driver's side one sits like this nice and flush (no screws in it yet as per suggestion from JBG.)
But this is as good as I can get the passenger one to rest.
Thoughts?
Lastly and update on the Electrolysis:
Before:
After: (Not the exact same one but they turned out the same.)
You can even read the parts numbers now.
That's all for now, not that anyone but me reads this.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 8,908
Likes: 1
From: Algona, Washington
I'm sure plenty of people read this. I'm keeping up with it, however I don't know enough to help much. I fixed my tailgate handle on my 78. Pretty much it had a similar issue, what happened was someone tried to force the tailgate open with the window up a little. It bent part of the handle mech and caused the tailgate to not only stop latching, it also made it so the PO had to put some latches on the outside to keep it shut.
I've since fixed it a little. I got both sides to latch but one side the latch doesn't close fully. I left the exterior latches on.
I've since fixed it a little. I got both sides to latch but one side the latch doesn't close fully. I left the exterior latches on.
Don't say much because I'm not a mechanic. I try to fix things that break on my Bronco, however it's been pretty solid since I've had it 
Biggest issue I had was a bad alt and battery.
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,019
Likes: 2
Another small update: Since those liars on TV said it's going to rain all next week I didn't want to do any body work. Although exterior wise I only really have to focus on the hood/doors since the fenders/quarters are going to be replaced (even though they are pretty much brand new.)
I spent a few hours after work Saturday looking for some new doors since mine are starting to show some signs of rust and near the fenders they are bent inward from an accident a few years back. (Pics to come.)
As for the progress today I got the steering knuckles for the D44 painted.
I spent a few hours after work Saturday looking for some new doors since mine are starting to show some signs of rust and near the fenders they are bent inward from an accident a few years back. (Pics to come.)
As for the progress today I got the steering knuckles for the D44 painted.
