My next project is servicing the distributor.

I bought an extra distributor at the junkyard to play with and with the help of the following publication I've gotten pretty good at taking it apart and putting it back together again. The hardest part for me is getting the wire retainer for the sleeve assembly back onto the shaft...

http://jeep.lex-con.com/tech/Crane_V...dvance_Kit.pdf

The first time I took the junkyard dizzy apart I was surprised how stiff everything was. The sleeve and plate assembly didn't turn very easily and the weights were also pretty gummy.

As for the vacuum advance, fuggetaboutit. It was seized.

Now, after cleaning everything up, applying some WD40 to the base of the vacuum advance, and motor oil to the sleeve assembly shaft and weights, I can see how smooth it's all supposed to work.

It also demonstrated how easily a dirty dizzy can retard mechanical and vacuum advance, robbing precious power and mileage!

So as soon as I have the opportunity I plan to service the dizzy in the truck. I've had the thing 10 years and have only done caps and rotors, It's time to check it out...

Question for the gang:

Is WD40 and motor oil an acceptable lube for the purpose or should I look for something else? Opinions please!

Thanks.

 

Motor oil = yes. WD40 = no as it evaps easily. So I use motor oil or 3N1 oil on things like the shaft & bushing, the weights, and the pivot points for the advance plate and vacuum advance.

 

I have never lubed my distributor, but if I did I would probably use a light lubricating oil intended for firearms or sewing machines.
You might also try something like Teflon Dry Lube from the makers of PB Blaster.

You want to stay away from anything that is going to gum up or attract too much dust.

 

Yes, as the junkyard dizzy clearly showed.

I'll just have to get in there and see what I've got and what I can do with it on the vehicle.

I'm going to make a confession. I DREAD the idea of pulling the dizzy. Didn't used to be that way until one of my sergeants in the Army pulled his and wound up the the oil pump drive shaft deep-sixed in the bottom of his oil pan. Ever since then I've been skeered.

That was a long time ago and I don't recall exactly what he had, only that it was a used and abused Ford V8. Should I be concerned about pulling the dizzy on my bone stock 460?

 

There is supposed to be a collar below the block boss to prevent it coming free of the oil pump.
Hopefully the shaft is not stuck too tight in the distributor.

I have heard that horror story too.
Never seen it, but I imagine it does happen.

 

Yes, there should be a collar on there to prevent that problem. There has been on all the engines I've worked on, even the rebuilt ones, but it would be easy to put one in without the collar.

But, you really wouldn't have to pull the dizzy if you can get to it from above. (There's the beauty of a Chevy engine in a van or a motor home - the dizzy is right there when you pull the dog house.) if you can get to it you can service it on the vehicle.

 

As mentioned, there should be a collar on the pump drive to prevent it coming out.

I've seen the shaft fall before, and in every case, it was an engine that had been "rebuilt" by someone that failed to put the shaft in *before* installing the pump, and they took off the collar rather than pull the pump (and usually the pan) back off.......
Though, some replacement shafts don't come with the collar.

 

Thanks for the comments guys. Since it's stock the collar should be there and as usual I'm concerned about something most unlikely.

I never gave much thought to spray on lubricants and always assumed WD40 was as good as anything else. But looking into it good old WD40 is more of a penetrant, cleaner, and fish attractant than a lube. That explains why it only helps my door hinges for a little while before they start squeaking again...

So I went to the store the other day to look at lubricant candidates and what a variety. It's enough to give a guy paralysis of analysis!



In addition to regular petroleum based lubricants they gots yer Teflon, silicone, and lithium, along with a bunch of other stuff. Of course reading the labels they're all perfect for every application, including pancakes (okay, I made the pancakes thing up, but you get my point).

In the end I bought some 3 in 1 oil (thanks Gary) and some petroleum based CRC "Power Lube", mainly because it had a picture of a distributor right on the can!

But I'm curious to know what y'all might think about these fancy new lubes and if you've had any good or bad experiences with them?

 

The Teflon (must be capitalized as I worked for DuPont, which is where I finally understood the meaning of "paralysis by analysis") based lubes work well for things like our hood hinges as they coat the whole surface and don't attract dirt. But they don't work all that well for higher pressure bearings, like door hinges. Might be good in a dizzy on things like the weights as Teflon doesn't bake off - hence its use on pancake pans.

 

Teflon is good, silicone is good, white lithium is good... WD 40 (Water Dispersant formula #40) was never intended as a lubricant...