I will definitely be running good filters. I have heard some of the guys running modified diesels out here having issues with some filters being inadequate and letting dust eat their compressor blades. This is often noticed as low boost by these guys. The air filters most highly recommended out here is S&B. The only turbo setup I can figure would be a set of twins with headers made to locate the turbos at the front of the engine. I will have to relocate my battery and water reservoir, and would easily have $3500 into it in parts with Garrett 55mm's. I would like to go this route but it will depend on how much time I will have between jobs. Honestly I have seen used procharger systems for around $2000, and that is very tempting for that price. A 12psi pulley waste gated to 10psi with lightning MAF and 42 lb/hr injectors, and proper fuel delivery system should provide impressive results.

 

And sorry I'm not a fan of the v10. I don't like the way it drives. The uneven firing order bothers me along with the increase in moving parts. It's just that much more that can go wrong, and the minor performance increase is not worth it. Not to mention that for the cost of a v10 and stuff for the swap I can have a built long block 5.4 and it doesn't take much boost to make up for the lack of displacement.

 

After reading all of these posts, my recommendation goes as follows.

Since you want to have boost, get the motor built with forged components, consider an overbore .020, or .030. That increase in displacement will add power.

Don't lower the compression lower than 9.0-1, as this will make the motor a dog (if turbo or cintrifical supercharged). Sure you could go to 8.0, 8.5-1 for huge boost, but that will kill fuel mileage and response.

If you are going to cram boost down the engine, forget about cams. Port matching the heads to manifolds will help, but unless you are going for 700+hp, cams are unnecessary. Besides, big cams hurt the low down torque you are looking for.

A converter might help, but what about the rest of the trans? If it's got 200+k miles, it might be time for a rebuild, especially if it's a 4R100. If you don't rebuild it, consider a TransGo Tugger kit.

I have no recommendations on supercharges or turbos, only that make sure you get the best you can afford, and have it TUNED SAFE. If this truck is gonna be a hot DD, then don't even think about running as much boost as you can, or having hot, lean air-fuel ratios. That will toast your new motor faster than running it out of oil.

 

Maybe they key here, is to go grab an old 5.4 engine from a scrap yard, and do a full rebuild with all the high performance parts you want, working on it in your spare time.

With a project like this, theres bound to be some design issues, maybe even parts sourcing issues, so it would be nice to have the engine in running condition before pulling the truck off the road.

Whats a junkyard 5.4 worth? 500$?

 

That is funny... junkyards are basically steelerships of used parts. Might find one on craigslist or a entire truck but cheap rebuildable engines are not cheap anymore

 

I know what your saying, some junkyards sure charge lots, it's true.

Anyways, buy and sell, internet, kijiji, you should be able to find a miled out engine to use for a core to build the engine.

Then when the swaps done, sell your original to get your money back.

 

I received my build estimate from Houston Performance and they are planning an awesome build for a car lol. I think they misunderstood me or missed the part where I was talking about finding a happy medium. On my sheet the cost is $6500 which isn't bad for a maxed out build (short of trick flow heads). The build included full port and polish heads, fully studded engine scat rod, forged crank (mine should be forged), JE pistons, oversized valves, blower springs etc... The scat rods are not bad at $500 but a good bit of the rest seems way overkill for a truck that will probably only have 420fhp, and will rarely see it. I definitely do not want the ported heads. I think I have decided to go with the procharger and make some equal length headers for it, Along with the new gears and custom tune I should be happy with the low rpm performance. Then I will use the procharger to make up for lack of flow on the top end. The motor will not be spun above 5500 rpms and will probably only see that on the dyno. I have seen the f150 guys run 12psi on stock compression. I will keep it tuned safe as reliability is very important, and I'm sure my maximum safe limit will be able to be determined on the dyno. The centrifugal supercharger will allow for more boost where I want it, but less in my daily driving range, which will help with reliability. Would manley pistons suffice? I have seen them for $550 versus the $800-$900 for the JE's.

 

I thought the idea of high performance pistons was that they're lighter to allow higher RPM's, if thats not what you're after, why not just stock?

 

6500 is a good price, but way outta league for a truck.

I think your factory crank should be good for 450-500 hp.

Pistons and rods are a necessity. What brand is up to you.

Rebuilt stock heads will be fine, no need for hours of porting or huge valves and double springs.

 

Don't forget the custom tuning you'll need too, good tuning will be the difference between great feeling performance, and a pile of useless expensive parts.

 

The aftermarket pistons are lighter for higher rpms, but are also stronger to handle greater stress. If a condition occurres that causes pre-ignition, it would likely destroy a stock piston, but the forged piston should be able to hold together at least long enough to shut it down. I have heard of some mustang and f-150 guys running 12psi on factory components with the stock 9.75:1 CR, but if knock did occur I don't see it lasting long. Also that is a good bit of stress on factory rods. From what I understand, every rod will flex at least a minor amount at the stress points. How much it flexes depends on the quality of the rod. The more flex the sooner it will snap. These modular motors are lasting 200,000+ miles from the factory, impressive. The reason why though seems to be that they are overbuilt from the factory compared to the old engines. I remember the old chevy 350's would start smoking at 100,000 miles. A rebuilt longblock could be had for $900 though vs. $2000-$2500 on the mod motors. Well it should be fun I'm going to run it with the new gears, wheels, tires, and suspension for a little bit at first, and see where I would like to set the powerband at. Also will get a spare longblock if I can find one for a decent price.

 

Houston Performance will be doing the tuning on their dyno.

 

I know this is a GM,

Stock GM LS Engine - Big Bang Theory - Hot Rod Magazine

But none the less, amazing for stock parts.

 

Why not start with the gears and tires. See where your at. I dont think a overbuilt bottom end is dumb. Id prefer it. If for some reason you skimp on the bottom end it will cost you 2x to replace it. Better to have it and never reach its potential then be on the edge and have a anomaly that destroys it.

 

Yes that is my plan. With the gears and tires on I can see where I want my powerband. I need to clean my IAC valve and replace my exhaust studs when I go home too, along with fixing the knock sensor. I will do a build thread when it is completed and probably order my lift kit tomorrow, and see what other parts I need for the front end. That way all my parts will be there when I get home. I am just getting my gears replaced for now. When Auburn decides to make its ECTED electronic locking limited slip differential for the ford 10.5 then I will run that front and rear.