It is my understanding that the rotors in these new superchargers are not very heavy, and do not take much power to spin when not under boost. I looked into turbochargers but would have to fab my own intake if I wanted a strong truck style intake. Otherwise I am stuck with the plastic one or the HPS intake the latter being better suited for a car as it was designed with clearance issues in mind. I am tempted though to build an intake with larger ports to match ported heads, and longer runners to help with power down low then blow in it with a set of twins, but when I tried to read up on good turbos for this truck (as I would be building a custom twin system as plumbing issues would arise otherwise and would be easier on keeping exhaust runners equal length), however people are quickly pointed to superchargers. This truck will not be towing any more. I just purchased my wife a 2014 f250 to pull the fifth wheel with, and haul the baby around in. I have a book by Hugh McInnes at home that teaches how to size turbos, but won't be back home for another month or 2. When I spoke of the supercharger applying boost to help on a grade what I actually meant was any hill. This thing can't hold 70 pulling its own weight up a hill without turning close to 3000 rpms. I would like less downshifting. I do have an exhaust system installed by a shop with a high flow cat and flowmaster 40, because my old exhaust was ripped off on the right of way. I was impressed with the results after the T-pipe was gone but figured it would be better I got less downshifting from that mod. I will be using an sct tuner and Houston performance does dyno tunes. Also the cams will be custom by them and I am worried about this as well because they want the 2500 rpm stall converter so the motor will not be fighting the cams.

 

Sorry for the long posts. I have been reading for years on these trucks and there are some questions I have never seen answered.

 

Also remote mount will not work it will be destroyed quickly. The terrain I frequent is the reason I run dual side exit exhaust now.

 

OK well if your not towing anymore, that simplifies things. You'll still be heavier than a lightning, but not a crazy amount.

What about going the simple route?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Lightning-Crate-Engine-/291107630248?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43c75deca8&vxp=mtr

 

I think a Vortech centrifugal kit would be cheaper and easier to do than fitting the heaton blower. That Eaton isn't terribly efficient.

 

But not the same low end power.

 

When I go home this time I plan on
1. Rebuilding the front end.
2. Replacing the suspension.
3. Installing new wheels and tires.
4. Replacing gearing.
5. Doing a compression test

If it passes the compression test then I will try to make one more job with the engine. If not then I will get the long block built and after break in go FI. I wish auburn gear made the ECTED for the ford 10.5. I do not want ARB as I have bad luck with air fittings. Does anyone have any luck with trutrac? I have heard of them locking up at stop signs.

 

Most of the guys I work with are only getting around the upper 300's to lower 400's to the rear tires so with around 10 psi no matter what the setup I will be able to give them a run for their money. I looked into the procharger setup as I have found a few f150 2v kits for around $2k. The eaton setup is doable for about the same price if you shop around for parts. For instance, the m122 with intake is only $510. Used of course. The centri superchargers do offer an advantage over the roots though and that is how rpms decrease octane requirement (for obvious reasons). I will only be running 91 as 93 gets hard to find where I love in east Texas, and I want to keep my CR as high as possible so I don't loose my low end with this heavy truck.

 

I think if you build this to beat diesel powered super duty trucks, you're wasting your time and money.
There are lots of diesel powered trucks beating ford lightnings in races, and you propose basically the same power, but in a larger heavier truck.
If you want more power, I say do it, but do it to make yourself happy, not to race it against diesel trucks.

Running 91 or 93 octane gas is probably getting to around the same price as diesel, why not sell your truck, and buy a diesel, and tune it up? More power, and better mileage as well?

Buy a reg cab 6.4 diesel with 4x4. The 6.4's can put down almost 600 hp rear wheel power, with just the tuner exhaust and air.
And because of the twin turbo setup, insane low end TQ.
Maybe some parts to make it hold together.
You need the 4x4 because 2WD will just burn the tires off.

I realize this isn't what you asked about, but maybe consider this if you really want the power to whip some hopped up trucks

If you want to race diesels, I see you upgrading the 5.4 a bunch of times, and spending a pile of money. It might cost more in the long run.

Like always though, I could be wrong. haha.

 

Don't want a diesel I pull those guys out then drive through while they have to walk or catch a ride. I'm not wanting to blow their doors off just not be laughed at and add some fun to my ride. I believe I shouldn't have a problem with leavin 70% of these guys in the dust and keeping up with the rest. The 6.4's I've seen out here pushing that kind of power are either built to take it or they don't last so their owners repair and run a softer tune. Still, back to my original question. Will the ported heads kill my bottom end torque or just a minor drop over stock. What is a good stall with 35's and 4:56's?

 

I would think that skilled porting would improve torque across the power band (low, mid and high). Messing with the valve size could, depending on various factors I guess, change the power band up in the RPM range. But I'm no expert and don't claim to know what I'm talking about.

 

Building 4.6/5.4L Ford Horsepower on the Dyno - Richard Holdener - Google Books

This might be a good book for you. Preview pages will give you the information you need to decide on porting. - Go for it!

 

With forced induction, your TQ should be higher the whole band compared to stock. Thats with a roots style blower.
It is a positive displacement air pump, thus you should have a pretty steady gain over stock.
I think porting will not get in the way of low end, but will really help on the high end.

I've never run a supercharger, you might get better luck getting a moderator to move this entire thread to the f150/lightning section, where some of those guys might actually know these answers from experience.

 

Well 70mph with 35's and 4:56's will put me at 2130 rpms approx I don't remember the exact number but this should be good for this engine it is not much over stock but will definitely help. A light port and a little more cam will help move the rpm band up into this range and either turbos or a procharger will work well with this setup. I'm thinking a powerband from 1800 or 2000 rpms to 5000. As far as the intake goes it is my understanding that a larger port with runners the length of stock will slightly bump up its powerband but significantly increase airflow across that range. Correct? I was posting here as I figured the f150 guys and their light trucks would say to spin it to the moon and screw the low end.

 

I found what I was after except for the stall on the converter. So if anyone has any info there it would be appreciated I will do a build thread if y'all are interested when I get done.