Question about transfer case repairs
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 177
Likes: 20
From: Belpre, OH
Question about transfer case repairs
OK, here's what I've got:
91 Eddie Bauer Bronco, 351, E40D, BW1356
Transfer case is leaking oil at both the rear extension housing and the casing seam--not real bad, but I'd like to fix it before it reaches that point, along with inspecting the oil pump.
My big question is:
Can I split the case without removing the transfer case from the truck? do I have to be concerned with small parts falling out, or is it going to be fairly straightforward?
Just trying to avoid pulling it if I really dont have to--my back will thank me later
(sorry about crossposting in the forums, just trying to increase visibility)
Thanks,
Jim
91 Eddie Bauer Bronco, 351, E40D, BW1356
Transfer case is leaking oil at both the rear extension housing and the casing seam--not real bad, but I'd like to fix it before it reaches that point, along with inspecting the oil pump.
My big question is:
Can I split the case without removing the transfer case from the truck? do I have to be concerned with small parts falling out, or is it going to be fairly straightforward?
Just trying to avoid pulling it if I really dont have to--my back will thank me later
(sorry about crossposting in the forums, just trying to increase visibility)
Thanks,
Jim
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
Question about transfer case repairs
It's not very heavy (~90lb), and I doubt your back would appreciate fighting the t-case in such cramped quarters. You can get a cheap floor jack for ~$30 if you think it's too heavy to lower by hand.
I've never seen a Ford t-case opened up, but the BW t-cases used on Land Rovers come apart pretty cleanly.
I've never seen a Ford t-case opened up, but the BW t-cases used on Land Rovers come apart pretty cleanly.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 177
Likes: 20
From: Belpre, OH
Question about transfer case repairs
Thanks Steve--
The jack isn't the issue--got a nice 3 ton--just trying to get an idea for scope of work--i.e., do I need to break all the bolts loose while still in vehicle vs. out of vehicle--etc
I was just wanting to make sure there were no surprises in the transfer before I open it up
Jim
The jack isn't the issue--got a nice 3 ton--just trying to get an idea for scope of work--i.e., do I need to break all the bolts loose while still in vehicle vs. out of vehicle--etc
I was just wanting to make sure there were no surprises in the transfer before I open it up
Jim
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
Question about transfer case repairs
I think it would be best to drain it on the truck while you're unbolting the d'shafts, shifter, & t-case. Then pull it down and disassemble it on the bench. I pulled mine twice last month (to swap the transmission) and it was easy.
Here's the first part of the disassembly procedure from the '92-93 service CD. I highly recommend picking one up.
1. Remove transfer case from vehicle as outlined in this section.
2. Remove front output shaft yoke nuts, washers, and rubber seals and remove the front output yoke from the transfer case. On Bronco, repeat procedure for rear output circular flange.
3. Remove the four-wheel drive indicator switch and aluminum washer from the transfer case. Do not lose this washer as it is required for the proper operation of this switch.
4. Remove the front and rear output shaft yoke seals using Oil Seal Remover T74P-77248-A and Slide Hammer T50T-100-A.
NOTE:
A screwdriver may be used to remove the seal. Discard seal once removed.
5. Remove the input shaft seal using same tools.
6. Remove the four No. 50 Torx® head bolts securing the rear bearing retainer to the cover. Pry the rear bearing retainer from the cover using a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar between the pry bosses and separate and remove the bearing retainer from the cover. Remove all traces of silicone rubber from the mating surfaces of the cover and the bearing retainer.
CAUTION:
When removing the RTV sealant, use care not to damage the mating surfaces of the magnesium cases.
7. Remove the snap ring on the rear output shaft retaining the upper rear ball bearing using snap ring pliers.
8. Remove the 12 No. 50 Torx® head bolts that retain the front case to the rear cover. Insert a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar between the pry bosses and separate. Lift the front case from the rear cover. Remove all traces of RTV Gasket Sealant from the mating surfaces of the front case and the rear cover.
CAUTION:
When removing the silicone rubber, use care not to damage the mating surfaces of the magnesium housings.
9. Remove front output shaft inner needle bearing from the rear cover with Slide Hammer T50T-100-A and Collet D80L-100-T from Blind Hole Puller Set D80L-100-A or equivalents.
10. Drive out the rear output shaft bearing from the inside of the case using a brass drift tapping it lightly with a small hammer so as not to cause any damage to the case.
11. Remove the snap ring from the output shaft securing the shift collar hub. Slide the 4WD hub off of the output shaft.
Here's the first part of the disassembly procedure from the '92-93 service CD. I highly recommend picking one up.
1. Remove transfer case from vehicle as outlined in this section.
2. Remove front output shaft yoke nuts, washers, and rubber seals and remove the front output yoke from the transfer case. On Bronco, repeat procedure for rear output circular flange.
3. Remove the four-wheel drive indicator switch and aluminum washer from the transfer case. Do not lose this washer as it is required for the proper operation of this switch.
4. Remove the front and rear output shaft yoke seals using Oil Seal Remover T74P-77248-A and Slide Hammer T50T-100-A.
NOTE:
A screwdriver may be used to remove the seal. Discard seal once removed.
5. Remove the input shaft seal using same tools.
6. Remove the four No. 50 Torx® head bolts securing the rear bearing retainer to the cover. Pry the rear bearing retainer from the cover using a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar between the pry bosses and separate and remove the bearing retainer from the cover. Remove all traces of silicone rubber from the mating surfaces of the cover and the bearing retainer.
CAUTION:
When removing the RTV sealant, use care not to damage the mating surfaces of the magnesium cases.
7. Remove the snap ring on the rear output shaft retaining the upper rear ball bearing using snap ring pliers.
8. Remove the 12 No. 50 Torx® head bolts that retain the front case to the rear cover. Insert a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar between the pry bosses and separate. Lift the front case from the rear cover. Remove all traces of RTV Gasket Sealant from the mating surfaces of the front case and the rear cover.
CAUTION:
When removing the silicone rubber, use care not to damage the mating surfaces of the magnesium housings.
9. Remove front output shaft inner needle bearing from the rear cover with Slide Hammer T50T-100-A and Collet D80L-100-T from Blind Hole Puller Set D80L-100-A or equivalents.
10. Drive out the rear output shaft bearing from the inside of the case using a brass drift tapping it lightly with a small hammer so as not to cause any damage to the case.
11. Remove the snap ring from the output shaft securing the shift collar hub. Slide the 4WD hub off of the output shaft.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 177
Likes: 20
From: Belpre, OH
Question about transfer case repairs
Excellent!
Thanks very much
About the CD--is my 91 close enough to the 92 and up that it will still be relevant?
Are these the same CDs you see on ebay?
Thanks for your help,
Jim
Thanks very much
About the CD--is my 91 close enough to the 92 and up that it will still be relevant?
Are these the same CDs you see on ebay?
Thanks for your help,
Jim
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
Question about transfer case repairs
Yes, they're the ones you can get for ~$10 delivered to your door, and there are so few differences between '91 & '92 that you probably won't notice. I've never seen a CD for pre-'92, so I think you'll have to take a '92/93 (those years are combined on one CD - all others have a single year). Just make sure you get the truck & van CD - not the car one.
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