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Ohming out the 42-pin connector and the glow plugs, and properly testing the GPR. There are way too many threads going into great depth for such simple and common tasks. Everybody would just link to that instead, and you'd get a lot of hits.
thats weird, i was just reading Tugly's recent post on the 42 pin connector and which ones to ohm and thought it would be cool if there was a video of it.
Ohming out the 42-pin connector and the glow plugs, and properly testing the GPR. There are way too many threads going into great depth for such simple and common tasks. Everybody would just link to that instead, and you'd get a lot of hits.
Those are great ideas. Simple yet effective. Added to list.
This might be hard, but show replacing the seals inside our 4x4 hubs. The expensive one, that needs to be pressed onto the outer axle, to repair leaking air issues. Guzzles showing the hub work doesn't detail the seal replacement. It is hard to know where to position it.
This might be hard, but show replacing the seals inside our 4x4 hubs. The expensive one, that needs to be pressed onto the outer axle, to repair leaking air issues. Guzzles showing the hub work doesn't detail the seal replacement. It is hard to know where to position it.
Man, I just did this Thursday, wish this was brought up last week. It was pretty straight forward though...
Man, I just did this Thursday, wish this was brought up last week. It was pretty straight forward though...
Yeah, but I fear I didn't get the seal/axle relationship perfect. I had problems getting the snap ring and thrust washers on, too tight. Hard for me to know where to position the seal exactly.
Yeah, but I fear I didn't get the seal/axle relationship perfect. I had problems getting the snap ring and thrust washers on, too tight. Hard for me to know where to position the seal exactly.
The factory seals on mine were in two different places. One seal was flush with the axle the other was about a 1/16" from being flush. When I I put the new seals on both ended up about a 1/16" from being flush.
Once that was done I put the thrust walker on and unit bearing back in placed and used the unit bear to seat the axle. No problems at all, you just have to tighten the unit bearing down in equal increments with the four nuts.
The factory seals on mine were in two different places. One seal was flush with the axle the other was about a 1/16" from being flush. When I I put the new seals on both ended up about a 1/16" from being flush.
Once that was done I put the thrust walker on and unit bearing back in placed and used the unit bear to seat the axle. No problems at all, you just have to tighten the unit bearing down in equal increments with the four nuts.
Sorry for the hijack Trey.
Me to Trey. Back to the regular scheduled programming.
Yeah, I'd really like to see a turbo removal/rebuild/reinstall. Could make an opportunity for a short series or one long episode.
And Tugly's idea is very nice as well. Such simple things I haven't seen covered in videos, with the clarity of yours at least.
I like the idea of the turbo removal video(s). I just don't want to pull mine off for no reason. If someone near me wants to theirs I will have an opportunity to make one, but until that time it will have to wait. I've got 3 7.3Ls near me that I use for videos including mine.
I'm trying to find a 6.0 near me to branch into those as well.
I like the idea of the turbo removal video(s). I just don't want to pull mine off for no reason. If someone near me wants to theirs I will have an opportunity to make one, but until that time it will have to wait. I've got 3 7.3Ls near me that I use for videos including mine.
I'm trying to find a 6.0 near me to branch into those as well.
Trey, I have a set of dorman up pipes to go on soon.
I also am going to do a turbo rebuild kit, new wheel, boots and plenum inserts..