All dash lights off finally... had to tape the new ABS connector into the socket on the driver's side. It kept losing signal. Now I am noticing that it is shifting a little hard, definitely not smooth, between 2nd and 3rd. It is not a hard jerk... more like a hesitation. could this be a solenoid? Should I look and feel for additional symptoms?

Would it be risky to change out the transmission fluid? or use a cleaning additive?

 

What's the condition of the tranny fluid now? Is it real dark and burnt smelling?

Personally, I would stay away from cleaning additives.

 

Changing the transmission fluid and filter should not be a concern. Since you don't know the history/schedule of prior fluid changes though, the general consensus seems to be you wouldn't want to flush the transmission and lines. If the fluid is pretty worn when doing the change, plan to change the fluid and filter again in 20k miles or so.

-Rod

 

I drained a little fluid when I had to cut the lines to the transmission cooler... the quick connects were rusted together. That fluid was a nice red, a little darker than fresh atf but not much. did not smell burnt. It is a real pain to add transmission fluid to this tranny. You have to pump it through the bottom... not a good system. Probably designed to discourage people from doing it themselves. lol does not stop those of us too stubborn to give up.
So you suggest just draining the pan and replacing what drains? Not to have it flushed? What if it is not the fluid? AAMCO said the tranny was fine. What else could be causing this?

 

Fluid and filter is the least expensive of the options. Other common issues that could cause your symptoms are a faulty shift solenoid pack and/or worn bores a bit higher in the transmission. If you're pretty sure the fluid and filter is fine, you might want to save up around $700 and have a transmission shop replace the valve body and inspect the bores for wear. It's about 30 minutes extra labor to inspect the bores for wear. If wear is found, there's a sleeving kit available. I had this done a couple years ago to my 2004 Aviator. My recall is the bill would have been $435 for the shift solenoids, fluid, and filter. Since the bores were worn (which the shop said was unusual for only 85k on the odometer) it cost me around $650 out the door. I had harsh reverse engagement and some pretty odd shifting under low load at low speeds (such as when driving through state parks).

-Rod

 

Well just because it did not look too bad does not mean a change wouldn't improve its performance. I may try that soon. Odd shifting should not be caused by anything else but the transmission right. It would not come from the transfer case? I know the transfer case power from the transmission to the differentials... does it shift when the tranny shifts?

 

The transfer case does not shift when the transmission shifts. The transfer case really only has 1 ratio (unless it also includes a 4 LO mode, some Explorers did) and shifts between 2WD and 4WD. Some cases also have a Neutral setting.

Odd shifting could however be caused by other sensors and inputs to the PCM such as the throttle position sensor and vehicle speed sensor.

-Rod

 

First drain the oil from the transmission then put the new additive Recommended by Ford in and fill the transmission that should correct several minor problems. Also check the old oil closely for metal it would not be a bad idea to drop the pan & change the filter you need to do it at some point. You should not need a new pan gasket. These transmissions are well known for Overdrive Planet wrecks in most cases caused from running it about 1/2" low or greater over time in most cases the oil will not smell until very near the wreck.

Sorry for too much talk!

 

I just replaced the wheel speed sensor in the rear diff. I thought this would fix my ABS issues and cruise control as well. Which it did for a while. I had 2 codes, one indicating wheel speed sensor and the other indicating a lack of input from the drivers ABS sensor. This sensor is brand new, it comes with the wheel hub assembly, which I just replaced. After cleaning the connectors and reconnecting them the light went out; but, now it intermittently comes back on and off. I even taped the connectors together. I checked the cruise control and it is not working again, even when the ABS light is off.

If I can completely resolve the ABS issue but still have poor shifting, what additive is recommended? Is there a ATF with the additive included that I should use?

 

Here is a good selection you can also get it from your Ford Dealer.
The Ford TSB is # 04B22S3
All Ford A/T Need this fix if it has not been done most oil change centers do this no questions ASK. If I paid the price I would insist!

Lucas Oil/Transmission fluid fix
Part Number: 10009

Bar's / Automatic transmission repair
Part Number: 1400

K&W Products / Trans-X stop leak and tune up
Part Number: 2015
Alternate Part Number: 2015S

K&W Products/Trans-X high mileage automatic transmission treatment
Part Number: 402916

 

Ok, Finally decided I am going to drop the pan on the tranny and change the filter while I am at it. How much fluid should I expect to drain? the entire system holds 12.7 quarts, I think. Should I expect 8 or 10? Just trying to figure out how much to have on hand. Should it be Dex/Merc? or Dex VI or Merc 5? Now, when I drop the pan... is there anything specific, other than floating debris and freely moving valve I might want to look for? Thanks again for your assistance.

 

YAY! NO METAL CHUNKS IN THE PAN! only micro sludge around the magnet. We listened to it with a stethoscope and still hear noise near the bell housing, since there are no metal bits in the transmission pan I am thinking maybe the torque converter? I only had about 6 quarts drain from the tranny so only about 1/2 the fluid got replaced... but new transmission filter and the additive recommended should keep it happy for a while. Would like any feedback on Torque Converter possibly making the clanking noise.

 

Update on 2003 Explorer XLT. Since this is really my son's truck I do not drive it very much... unless I need to tow something or fix it lol. Seems to have been driving fine for months till today. Seems like it does not want to shift...I have not had it on the main roads yet to test but my son is reporting that it will not go over 35 MPH. It revs fine taking RPMs to over 4k in park; however, NO POWER when in gear! RPMs seem to stay about 2k or so.


I put my code reader on it, but there are no codes. Oil is at correct level and actually kinda clean.
I did a transmission fluid change almost a year ago dropped the pan and replaced filter too. Checked tranny pan bolts and drain plug... no leaks.

Checked the front differential (looked like it was leaking) and found fluid low, added appropriate fluid.
Seems to engage 4x4 Low, 4x4 HI and out again.


The weather did just get cold...not sure if this is a coincidence or contributing factor.
We have historically had a clanking from somewhere near (or in ) the transfer case...this is next on my list to check the fluid in. Used a stethoscope on it when I changed the trans fluid and could not really pin point where it is coming from.


I did check the transfer case fluid and it was a little low, filled it again. this was checked in February.


I have a sinking feeling I am rebuilding a transmission next month.
Or could it be the torque converter??

Any ideas, thoughts or comments are very much appreciated.
Thanks