Hi everyone,
got a 94 fault code, does it means converter clutch control failure? if yes where do i begin?
thanks

 

it means: Transmission TCC circuit/solenoid problem.
start by investigating the solenoid pack plug.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14071748

 

thanks FORDF250HDXLT ! one of the wire is cut in half. it's kind of hard working on in it. are the wires going all the way up to the front or there is a way to disconnect them?

 

oh so you just need a repair harness,or repair it yourself (at least until a plug arrives.) right.it is very short.to get more wire out and bring this harness down where it can be replaced/repaired,simply unplug the connector (remember press in towards the trans on the clip,at the very bottom while pulling up) reach up around the trans and you'll feel/see the clips on the harness.pull the wiring harness out of these clips and bring the whole works down around on the drivers side.then you can work on repairing/replacing it with ease.
if some of the clips break (likely as their old and brittle) don't worry.just wire tie it back up good when you put it back is all.
if/when you replace the plug,the lines are nice and long on the repair plug.don't be afraid to cut the lines back a few inches to insure you get back into nice clean,bright copper.don't forget to use a mirror and look down into the s-pack on the trans side too to make sure all those pins are spotless.

 

after repair the broken wire did the test again. now i have fault code 26. MAF sensor or circuit fault? or transmission oil temperature sensor?

 

then it sounds like you still have issues with the plug.did you use electrical cleaner on both sides and insure it was all cleaned? the importance of a perfectly clean and sealed tight connection here can't be understated.
when you put the plug back into the s-pack,did you hear an audible "click" ? if you didn't hear this,you may not have pressed down hard enough.if the clip is broken,then it'll never be right and leave it open to corrosion down the road and will eventually shake loose and lift up and out of the pins.

26 would only mean for our trucks: Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) sensor out of range

since you didn't get that code first,im just guessing the plug still isn't clean or fully inserted,as it's kinda rare the s-packs solenoids (or trans temp sensor) fails.....possible of course,but it's not likely.
is the light still flashing on the shift lever? if not,just drive it.it might just be the trans fluid is too cold and during a scan when so sold out,it might toss out of range on ya.i don't know right off how warm the fluid needs to be,to make sure it doesn't toss the tot code.just guessing there on that one though.if the od light is blinking still though,then disregard and double check the connector.
so if no od light blinking,drive to warm it up for a few miles.read codes again,then hopefully all ya get is 11 = Huston we do not have a problem.

 

i didn't hear the click. it was very dirty. i just repaired quickly the wires, cleaned a bit around. looking with the mirror inside the s-plug i saw that was wet. tried to dry it a bit but didn't do a good job. like you say it must be spotless.. i think it got wet inside because the old plastic plug doesn't lock properly. i'll try to clean it very good if still doesn't click i'll buy the replacement part with new wires.
just want to see the nice code 11 or 111 !!

 

best to buy it as soon as you can.otherwise the solenoid/tot/converter slip codes will just keep coming back.
once you replace that side,flush the s-pack pins out really good with electrical cleaner.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-E4OD-Transmission-Solenoid-Wire-Harness-Repair-Kit-1989-94-99608-/190820576057?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6dcaeb39&vxp=mtr
once all dried out good (must be 100%) closely inspect the pins using your mirror.scrape them up and make each brightly shine again if need be.can even drop the pan and just pull it and take your time with the pins if needed.
if you want this issue resolved for the rest of the trucks life with no more hassles,this hour or two job will do the trick.you can't make sure this connection is flawless enough.when you think it's perfect,double your efforts again x2 lol.
she'll run like brand new with perfect connection here.


this is the main line of communication between the trans controller and your transmission.these pins can't be over clean.take your time and make them shine.
upon reasonably,just before plugging it in,apply a nice dose of Permatex 22058 dielectric tune-up grease.






remember now.......anything short of perfect will = failure.flashing od light.limp mode.hassles.removal of plug all the time,spraying of plug.etc.etc.etc......been there done that,got the t-shirt.it wasn't worth it.
spend the 40-45 bucks,two hours worth of time and be done with it for years and years.

oh.though it may be overkill.those crimp connectors are heat shrink style.go ahead and shrink them with heat once crimped but first,slide on some universal heat shrink tubing too so you can shrink them again.then wrap them all with e-tape like a half the roll.then wire loom,and wire tie.you want no hassles.overkill here is ok.



hmm.know what,i think this might be the most detailed thread about insuring this bulkhead connector is 100% flawless,that im going to save it and reference others to it,as it's such a common issue.save me some future typing.
so then,i might add for better search results the common codes a bad plug can cause:

possible related codes due to a bad s-pack or connector (either side)



26
Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) sensor out of range

39
Transmission Torque Converter clutch not engaging (guessing on this one.seems likely though if a connection can't be made.)

62
E4OD excessive converter clutch slippage

66
Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) signal low (possibly grounded)

91
Transmission SS 1 circuit/solenoid problem

92
Transmission SS 2 circuit/solenoid problem

93
Transmission TCC circuit/solenoid problem

94
Transmission TCC circuit/solenoid problem

98
Transmission EPC circuit/solenoid failure

99
Transmission EPC circuit/solenoid failure

so basically as you can see,any of the type of codes that would be related to a faulty connection between trans control unit/TCM and the solenoids.makes sense right?
oh,that statement reminds me of a pic.then let me help you get the idea of what this is with this pic:


(s-pack = short for solenoid pack.pretty obvious but it's a made up abbreviation by me to save typing,so i shouldn't assume all will know what im talking about lol.)

 

thanks for the detailed reply. i guess it's everyhting i need to know. i'm learning it now but like you said it's better to do the job properly one time!
only one more question: are these two connectors the same?
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...272&cc=1124660

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-E4OD-Transmission-Solenoid-Wire-Harness-Repair-Kit-1989-94-99608-/190820576057?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6dcaeb39&vxp=mtr

 

it appears it is according to rock auto.they have it listed to fit a 92 diesel truck via a quick google search.they have it listed as a downshift solenoid connector.oddly named but according to them it's the pre-95 s-plug.so id guess it would be the same as the one listed on ebay.i know the one on ebay is correct cus i installed it on chip truck.

 

You'll have to bare with me because what little knowledge I have of repairing vehicles I have learned on my own and with my family size I cant afford to pay people to work on mine and my truck has me going places I have never been before lol! I have a 93 F250 7.3 IDI. I am replacing more stuff on it then I have time to mention on here. One thing I have been planning to do in the next week or so is install a new transmission oil cooler and replace the rubber lines as well as change fluid filter and gasket. I have been told that the transmission on my truck will do better with Type F. Is the true or false or does it matter? What's the best way to get all the old out including from the torque converter and are the transmission flush bottles I've seen advertised good or bad? I also wanted to ask because this forum caught my eye, because since the day we bought the truck the O/D light on the shifter has flashed almost always. I read something in this forum about that issue. I was not aware that this truck was a way to get repair codes. Could someone please give me some guidance for my questions and how I start to figure out the flashing O/D light? Any help or guidance would be truly appreciated!!!!

 

FORDF250HDXLT I hope you can help me. I have an F350 with E4OD tranny. ran trouble and got 536, 111. I know 536 says BOO low signal. But the problem I;m having is the speedometer needle bounces above 35mph, and the TCC locks up all the time.I've replaced the speed sencer in the rear dif. to no avale. I can't find the one on the tranny? Am I looking for the rong thing?

 

new threads would be best guys.there are a great deal of many reasons why the OD light will flash and it may not have anything to do with why giorgio.fo's does.

Bunger,
you need a code scanner.OBD1 ford scanner.it plugs in under the hood up by the drivers side hinge.
without the codes,it's all guessing.unless you see something obvious going on like an inop,dim cancel od button,inop tach or speedo or the like.otherwise,the codes will tell you where to go.

Alfred,
if your getting 3 digit codes,your probably in the wrong section of the forum.what year is your truck and what engine does it have?

 

I am most likly in the wrong tread, but I tryed to find the right and can't. I think it's lack of computure skills.I just found you and you made the most sense to me. I've got a 1995 F350 7.5 gas with E4OD box truck. If you can point me to the wright tread,or help me find the wright place to look.

 

this is the place you want to be.

1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

find the "new thread" button there,and you can title and ask with your codes and get help.good luck.