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Yeah I had to level out my motor a little to get the headers in there so they wouldn't rub the frame, but that wasn't too bad. I have some pics in my gallery of my project right now! Take a look and let me know what you think!
No problem stephenk! There is a couple more of the left and right side!
tellico, thanks! I am going to try and get the cab back on today and get the brake line issue figured out. Those are headman headers on there, new ones that I bought for $169 from summit racing.
I like those headers, but my only question is do the tires rub while the wheel is locked? It looks really close to me. Should the body be lifted for those to fit or do they work on a stock truck.
Originally posted by stangman67 I like those headers, but my only question is do the tires rub while the wheel is locked? It looks really close to me. Should the body be lifted for those to fit or do they work on a stock truck.
A body lift isn't needed if you trim the inner fenders. I took out about 3" on the passenger side and about 1" on the drivers side. I suppose if you had a body lift trimming wouldn't be necessary. But don't get me started on body lifts. L&L does say you need at least 4" of suspension lift and possibly radius arm drop brackets. Without the lift the radius arms would hit the headers at full compression.
As far as tire clearance goes, I don't have a problem. But I'm also running on worn out crappy Dunlops. On the street I would clear the headers even with a new set of 37X13 Boggers. I'd hit the radius arms first. Keep in mind I have 6" of suspension lift and 4" radius arm drop brackets. Having less lift may make more of an issue. The radius arm drop brackets wouldn't affect tire rub but the radius arm is more likely to smack the bottom of the header without them. That being said, the Boggers (or any other tire) would probably hit my headers if I stuffed a tire hard at full lock in an off road situation. I'm not too worried about it though. A few other guys here on FTE have said they rubbed their L&Ls and it didn't hurt them at all. The coating on these things is TOUGH!
Originally posted by 77'F-150Mudder Without the lift the radius arms would hit the headers at full compression.
I have only about 2" of suspension lift and the headers clear the radius arms no problem, I dont think they would hit even without a lift because the radius arms are under the frame and the headers on the outside.
Take a look at this pic of the radius arm in relation to the header.
The frame is tough to make out but you can see how one primary in particular runs over the radius arm. Since the arms are angled out and the frame tapers together toward the front, they mount to the diff outside of the frame. The header tube hanging down the most actually tucks under the frame slightly. It may never become an issue. I think I'd bottom out my shocks before the R/A could travel that high.
tellico, maybe this is unique to my set of headers. You mentioned that yours were a little bit older. Perhaps they revised the jigs to make these somewhere along the line.
Like I said, it may never become an issue. I thought I'd mention it to get any possible problems thrown out there. I know I hate it when I inquire about any issues with a particular product only to be surprised when the parts arrive and I have issues that were never mentioned. I don't want to scare anyone off these headers. They are truly the nicest I've ever seen or installed. They fit like a glove.
edit: BTW, that pic is a little deceptive. There is alot more room between the header and R/A than the pic appears to show.
I also used the L+L headers on my 429 conversion, I bent the brake line's back and also pushed the fuel line up a little bit as well. I have no problem's with it vapor locking or having a spongy pedal from header heat.
You might have to do some modification to the shock mount's. I have a pic of the driver's side header by the frame in the gallery. There was a real good post with alot of picture's by a couple other guy's. I will try to find it.