Another NO START
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2006
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The buzzing is only when the code reader tries to connect. WTS light is flashing when clicking sound is heard. It doesn't go off. Have disconnected both batts for the night and will charge them both and try in the morning with the boost charger assisting in the crank. Also going to check fuel pump for power with the key on. Will update then. Thank you all.
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Freshman User
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Ok here it is. After 4 days $500 in parts and a lot of hair pulling I got her started but then she would stall again. Taking a shot I moved the main computer under the dash. The previous owner had a piece of wire holding it to the mount. By moving it back and forth I could bring on all the original problems. A little Cajun tech and she's fixed for now....
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 492
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From: Jenkintown, PA
Ok here it is. After 4 days $500 in parts and a lot of hair pulling I got her started but then she would stall again. Taking a shot I moved the main computer under the dash. The previous owner had a piece of wire holding it to the mount. By moving it back and forth I could bring on all the original problems. A little Cajun tech and she's fixed for now....
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 6
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Like landmobile said, it's a 10 mm bolt holding the harness on inside the engine bay . But I would remove the PCM and check the pins to make sure none if them are bent. 1st remove the 10 mm bolt that secures the wire harness on, then the two 7 mm bolts securing the PCM to the bracket (if they are even there) just behind the emerg brake. Push the PCM to the right as you pull it out. Easy job, 20-30 minutes.
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It wad the previous owner who used the wire. With the truck running now I am a little gun shy about pulling the PCM. I am also not confident about a long trip. Bolt is tight on the wireing harness but the PCM moves with a touch. Should it be mounted to the bracket through the holes on the rear of the PCM?
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 6
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Here are my thoughts - take it for what it's worth.
If the truck stalled/stopped previously because the PCM is loose I would be concerned it would do it again especially if you hit a bump or tapped it with your foot. As you said, I wouldn't feel to confident on a trip. IMO you are actually very lucky that you didn't fry your PCM if the connection is loose. Heck - this might or might not be your problem, I would want to make sure.
Was the PCM harness loose when you checked it?
Here are a couple of pics......I just removed my PCM last night for the 3rd time this week to update my chip - it's really not a difficult thing to do and if you follow the instructions in the link below the pictures you won't have any problems. I'm no mechanic - if I can do it, anyone can.
The first pic shows the wiring harness connected to the PCM from inside the engine bay.
the second is the PCM installed. You can see the two screws and the metal clip that mount the PCM to the bracket......
Removal instructions from Total Diesel Performance.......
https://www.totaldieselperformance.c...pinstall99.pdf
Excellent point & reminder Chris - reps to ya.
If the truck stalled/stopped previously because the PCM is loose I would be concerned it would do it again especially if you hit a bump or tapped it with your foot. As you said, I wouldn't feel to confident on a trip. IMO you are actually very lucky that you didn't fry your PCM if the connection is loose. Heck - this might or might not be your problem, I would want to make sure.
Was the PCM harness loose when you checked it?
Here are a couple of pics......I just removed my PCM last night for the 3rd time this week to update my chip - it's really not a difficult thing to do and if you follow the instructions in the link below the pictures you won't have any problems. I'm no mechanic - if I can do it, anyone can.
The first pic shows the wiring harness connected to the PCM from inside the engine bay.
the second is the PCM installed. You can see the two screws and the metal clip that mount the PCM to the bracket......
Removal instructions from Total Diesel Performance.......
https://www.totaldieselperformance.c...pinstall99.pdf
Excellent point & reminder Chris - reps to ya.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 6
From: Sioux Falls, SD
These are the pins that I refferred to. My concern is that the previous owner removed the PCM to remove a chip possibly and threw the PCM back in and might have bent a pin or installed it in a way that resulted in a bad connection.
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Those two mounting bolts that hold the PCM to the mounting plate are not there. I flushed up the PCM to the plate with tie raps no start. Moved the PCM a 1/4" to the right she runs fine. Also the bolt on the harness was tight.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,910
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From: Hat Creek Ca
I am not sure on this one, but there are what appear to be "grounding clips" that go between the plastic bracket and the body of the PCM for the 7 mm bolts. They were there on mine when I installed my DP tuner. Don't know why else they would be there unless it is just support for the plastic bracket.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,426
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From: Sioux Falls, SD
If you do remove the PCM,
Out of curiosity - Does it still have the black plug in it like the photo below? I ask because the only reason I can think of why it is loose or having a connection problem is because someone previously removed it to add or remove a chip. In order to install a chip the black plug is removed.
Out of curiosity - Does it still have the black plug in it like the photo below? I ask because the only reason I can think of why it is loose or having a connection problem is because someone previously removed it to add or remove a chip. In order to install a chip the black plug is removed.
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Havent removed it yet. Wifes car, which of course, I was using is stuck in park at a local convience store. Shifter moves but it no go. When it rains it pours. As soon as I get her AVAITOR home I will pull the PCM. Thanks