I have a 1978 f250 camper special with a auto 460 that I'm going to put on a 1979 f250 4x4 frame and running gear. Cleaning up the 4x4 and getting ready for the body/engine swap and the question came up about headers. Some say the headers don't really improve performance that much...is this true for a 460 that will be a weekend driver/tow a camper once in a while? I'm on a budget and I'm already going to buy a new dual exhaust for it. Should I just use my stock headers and buy some?

 

Or should I try to get new exhaust manifolds?

 

Headers will run you $300+, and thats not including any piping after that.
If you are on a budget, maybe manifolds will be your best choice

 

I've also heard the headers can ruin the starter and the starter is a pain to change with the headers in the way?

 

It depends on the headers. The L&L's I had on my highboy were no where near the starter. They also never leaked, and tucked nice and tight into the block.

 

So a 2wd 460 into a 4x4 running gear...the 2wd 460 has a front sump oil pan right? It will go in there, but be aware if it is a stock front suspension set up truck you can hit the front pumpkin on the oil pan if you off road it hard.
Instead of $ on headers, maybe look into a oil pan swap, L&L (rear sump and pick up tube) unless you are running a 4" or 6" lift, then no worries.
Do you have a C-6 already hooked up to a NP-205 transfer case?
The 2wd C-6 will need a tail shaft changed out, pretty sure on that.

 

Yup I'm looking for a rear sump oil pan and I'm going to change the tailshaft out of the donor 4x4 and put it in my camper special tranny.

 

Sounds like you have a plan, you know about the different pick up tube stud and nut change over right? See the bottom part #....

Ford 460 front to rear sum conversion
Just an FYI for anyone looking to do a pan conversion.

I purchased a Ford Racing Engine Swap Oil Pan and a set of Milodon pan bolts for my truck, which has a big dent in the side of it where the front differential hit it. (Previous owner doing jumps). It didn't go exactly to plan.
When I pulled the pan, I soon realized that you need a new oil pump. The old siphon tube presses in on the bottom; you need the type with the two bolt flange on the side. So I ordered a Ford racing oil pump as well. (Priority shipping was expensive). I found that the new main bearing stub doesn't have a nut or lock washer (3/8" flange nut), also the kit doesn't come with a gasket for the siphon tube or bolts for that matter.
During installation I had to remove a broken bolt, I used a set of Irwin screw extractors which worked great.
About an hour into trying to figure out why I couldn't get the four larger(5/16) bolts into the ends of the pan, I pulled it down and found that the new one piece gasket will only accommodate the 1/4" bolts like on the sides, but not the 5/16". I ended up drilling the inserts out with a 5/16 drill bit.

Parts needed for conversion:
Oil Pan: Ford Racing M-6675-A460 (Summit or Jegs)
Oil Pump: Ford Racing M-6600-A460 (Summit or Jegs)
Oil Pump to Engine Gasket (Included with Oil Pump)
Siphon Tube Gasket: Fel Pro 11792 (Summit, Jegs, any Auto Parts Store)
1 of each - Grade 8 (3/8" - 18 Thread) Black Flange Nut for Main cap bolt
2 of each - Grade 8 Black (5/16" - 18 Thread) Flange nut & Lock washers.
Oil pan bolts: Milodon 85010 (Summit or Jegs)

Additional Steps:
If your 460 has the 4 larger bolts, 2 at the timing cover, 2 at the rear main cap, You will need to drill the holes in the gasket using a 5/16 drill bit.
You have to man handle the new dip stick tube to get it to fit.

Review:
Although I ran into problems, the overall product is outstanding! The Milodon bolts are a little bit shorter than factory, but they look great against the black Ford racing oil pan. The pump pressure using the Ford High volume oil pump is also great, it is reading on the high side of normal on the gauge. The clearance is outstanding, and I will never attempt to use a four piece gasket with RTV again on an oil pan.
You can perform this conversion for around $250, well worth the time and money.Don't forget to buy oil and new filter.
You will also need a reverse sump oil pickup tube/screen and the special stud (1/2" -13 x 3/8" -16 x 4 11/16") used to mount it to the main bearing cap.

Trans and motor mount info:
If you have an auto trans and a complete donor car, its pretty easy. To do it on the cheap, get the 460 Lincoln engine AND the torque convertor from the car. Or buy a new convertor that fits that car. Get a pair of 360/390 motor mounts, oblong the two holes on the motor mounts with a chainsaw file or whatever works for you and they bolt on to the 460 block diagonally You will notice that the stud on the 360 mount is not centered so you want that stud toward the back of the 460. If you flip the 360 mount upside down it puts the stud toward the front you want it toward the back. Now you notice the top corner of the 360 mounts are in the way of the exhaust manifolds. You need to put them on a band saw and cut off about an inch or so from the top corner of the 360 mount so it clears the manifold. Cut one mount at a time so you cut the right corner off. Remember the stud needs to be toward the back of the 460 block. If you set your band saw up to cut a 45 degrees and you cut one and than the other the same way, one will work and the other won't because you cut the wrong corner off. If you hold them up to the 460 block you will see what I'm talking about.
So with the 351M removed, pull the 351m convertor out of the trans and put the 460 convertor into the front of the trans. and put the 460 in the truck. The studs on the 360 mount will drop into the frame perches in the truck and the trans will bolt to the back of the block and the convertor will bolt to the 460 flex plate.

Do you have this?..Stud-Attaches pickup tube to #3 main bearing cap / 3/8" -16 &1/2" -13 x 4.60" long.

 

Founds some sanderson headers for my 460 and I was curious if they were a decent product or not. The price is good $345 and they are shorties.

 

I have never heard a bad word about them....