howdy! i am helping a friend trying to fix tailgate so it will open via the inner handle and it looks like remote mechanism is bad. can anyone direct me to the purchase of a replacement unit? this is ford pn. D8TZ-9843170-B thanks!

 

any vendors that deal in this stuff?

 

What remote mechanism are you talking about? The only release for the latches is the handle inside the gate. There is no lock mechanism because you can't open the gate with the rear window up.

 

Heres where you need to look.

1980-96 Ford Bronco Tailgate Bronco & Parts - Hood & Tailgate

This is the part you need....
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...ase-assy-.html


99% of the time its the latch mechanism that broke. This is caused by the tailgate interlock lever being bent.



It is a safety feature in the latch mechanism that prevents you from attempting to open the tailgate when the rear window is not all the way down. If you pull on it anyway, it will bend the arm on the latch and it wont open no matter what you do with the window. To open a tailgate with this condition, remove the access cover and pull inward simultaneously on the metal rods (5 and 7 on drawing below) that go out to the actual latch. this will open the gate so you can replace the latch mechanism.

To prevent this from ever happening again, you can cut off the interlock arm from the latch. Thats what I did. Now I never have to worry about breaking it.

 

95 percent of the time my key will not operate my back window , I wiglgle and wiggle it and it many work any suggestions. TR

 

Those key switches are prone to failure. Mine has never worked since I have had the vehicle. npd parts used to have some replacements but they dont list them anymore. One of these days I am going to have to fix it some how. The switches themselves are rivited in to the metal housing. It should be easy enough to drill them out. Finding some similar switches might be challenging, but I am sure there is something somewhere that could be made to work and fit.

I may have to dive in to this soon and at least do some digging on the web to find some switches. I definitely hate not being able to open the window from the rear to load things thru the window. I will keep my eye out for a junk yard bronco to pull one from to tear apart.

 

Yes it gets aggravating ,but am glad my dash switch works , I keep a replacement dash switch just in case TR

 

I've thought about digging into a switch and seeing why they stop working. Just imagine how well it would sell these days if someone could repair them. Customer sends faulty one in, someone repairs what's broken, ensures that it works, then send it back. Maybe for a little extra the person fixing them could do some kind of siliconing to keep water out or whatever. I don't know enough to do something like this though, I can instal a stereo in my vehicles but that's about as far as that goes.

 

I'm having issuses with my tailgate window too. I have yet to find a thread that can point me in the right direction. Originally my window didn't move and because of a lack of time I never messed with it till 2 weeks ago. I found the connector between the rear bumper and fuel tank to be corroded and fixed that. Right now though I have 12volts to the connector just before the motor and if I hook a battery directly to the motor the window moves....but if I connect the wires I get nothing at all. Can anyone point me in the right direction cause I'm at a loss.

 

What do you mean the connector just before the window? Is that the key switch? If it's after the key switch there should only be 2 wires. Check both for corrosion, bare wires causing a short, cuts, and the like. Also, maybe you could provide pictures of what you are talking about?

 

There is a two wire connector at the lower middle of the tailgate there is a red/yellow and yellow / red wire that comes off the key switch goes to this connector then the wires are solid red and yellow. If I jump a battery directly to the rex and yellow the window will go up or down depending on the polarity. I've I hook my multimeter to the red/yellow and yellow/red while some pushes the switch in either direction I get 12 volts. But when everything is together the window will not move. I'll take some pics in the morning.

 

I should also mention that the PO had bypassed the latch safety switch. I tested the dash switch and that is good as well.

 

Well, from my professional polish opinion (joke?), it sounds like that connector might be the issue. Have you pulled that apart and checked it for corrosion or damage?

 

I cut it off and spliced the wires directly thinking the same thing. Still no movement from the window :-( . I don't know how I could get 12v and no movement.

 

That is quite interesting... can you disconnect the wires from the motor and teat them there? Maybe we are overlooking something.