Ignition Wiring ??

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Mar 15, 2014 | 05:59 PM

#16

bruno2

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From: Broken Arrow , OK

I will look for it Chris.

Jim, I cant test it right now because I have the cables off of the battery and starter solenoid. I need to run out to the shop to get a piece of hose to put over the starter cable where it touches the frame to prevent from a hole being rubbed in it. So that has been slowing down the power installation process. Once I get the battery stuff back together I can test the wire to see if it stays 12 volts right by the module or if it drops after run. I was sorting all of the mess out with the DSII wires and was going to address that while I was at it. So I was hoping somebody knew right off of the top of their head what the wires did and what voltage was present so I could put that to bed right now.

Mar 15, 2014 | 06:02 PM

#17

bruno2

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From: Broken Arrow , OK

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctubutis

Exactly... I forget exactly, but, on the module, one gets 12V in RUN and the other in START. The coil should get full voltage in START but then reduced voltage in RUN (via the ballast resistor).

Bruno - I used a red/yellow-hash wire under the hood that feeds various solenoids and engine controls on the carb, not sure if your 1987 has such a wire. It came through the firewall kinda center, it's not part of the main cluster of wires near the steering column.

I would think it should be there. Mine had the AIR system on it, but not anymore. It did have the DSII from the factory though.

Mar 15, 2014 | 06:25 PM

#18

ctubutis

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From: Denver Metro Area, CO

From my 1981 EVTM, it looks like the white gets power in START and the Red in RUN (isn't this what Jim said?):

Mar 15, 2014 | 06:39 PM

#19

Gary Lewis

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From: Northeast, OK

That Depends on which side of the connector you are speaking of. I assume Bruno is going to break into the wiring on the truck side of the connector see he can change modules, and in that case it is the White/Light Blue hash wire that has battery voltage in Run. (Like was said some time ago.

)

Mar 15, 2014 | 07:39 PM

#20

ctubutis

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Yes, I was talking about the wires going into the module, didn't feel like typing out dashes or hashes or whatever.

Mar 15, 2014 | 08:16 PM

#21

bruno2

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From: Broken Arrow , OK

The red on the truck side goes to the coil I believe. It originates as white coming from the module. Then by Ford engineering switches colors on the truck side. That should be the hot in run I believe, but I thought as Chris and I were talking about the voltage doesn't stay constant because of the resistor. I will have to test it when I get it all back together. Also I am thinking the truck has to run to see the voltage drop. SO I should just check it at the choke to see what it is doing.

Mar 15, 2014 | 08:26 PM

#22

Gary Lewis

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From: Northeast, OK

The hot lead to the module does not go through the resistor. The coil's power goes through the resistor, but not the power for the module.

Mar 15, 2014 | 10:08 PM

#23

bruno2

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From: Broken Arrow , OK

OK, let me type this out again so I am sure we are on the same page. The new female plug for the module that handles the two wires (red and white) is really a 3 pin plug, but the third pin isn't used and has a wire that goes nowhere. There are 4 wires total coming out of this female plug. The module white wire that turns into the truck side red wire actually has 2 wires coming out for the one pin. This one should be the same one going to the coil for power. The choke works now, but may be coming off slow. If I check continuity from the extra wire coming from the pin with 2 wires it should be common with the choke power? Also if I use the lead that far back right by the module it should not have the resistor on it yet?