The #4 cylinder passenger side plug blew out yesterday. I'm looking at the Timesert kit. My only question is how do you aline the reamer and tap. Since the the reach will be a bit awkward my only concern is getting everything lined up and straight, I's assuming they are self alining?

thanks

 

I know there are you tube videos of the tooling being used. Or you can search here in the forums.

 

It is self aligning just take your time and watch the timesert video. I disagree with the grease method, I made up a vacuum setup and used wd40 seemed much easier to vac out the aluminum chips without the grease gumming up the works, the wd40 catches more chips than I would have thought. I also fabricated a rubber plug with a hole drilled in it and a hose and valve to pressurize the cylinder with my compressor. This makes it easy to tell when the valves were closed, plug pops when you turn the engine over and valves close.

 

The kit I bought was the 5553 I made the mistake of buying the cheaper kit and returning after talking to a timesert rep.

 

If you're still around...

I know you were asking about a 6.8L, but I'm in the process of doing a #4 on a friend's '99 5.4. I'd expect a #4 on a 6.8L would be easier but a #5 on the 6.8L would have the same difficulties as I'm having. I've about 4 hours into the job and it's been slow going so far. I finished tapping it as the dinner bell rang, so I'll begin today with cleanup, then installing the insert. I should have it finished in another half hour or so.

That thing is *almost* inaccessible, but, with patience, I'm getting it done. Difficulties include:

1. Buried under the cowling area (step stool and long arms needed)
2. Slanted towards rear of vehicle (@#&!!!!)
3. Heater hose interference (removed one, working around the other)
4. Heater outlet tube in the way (PITA,!!!)
5. Proximity to evaporator core connectors causes interference with ratchets (removed clip, helped some)

Because of interference from the 90° heater outlet tube, it's been necessary to assemble the reamer and the tap to the holding tool after getting the cutting tool into place above the hole, hold it with pliers, manipulate the holding tool into place, get them together, and tighten the set setscrew. Once the tool is assembled, drop it down into the hole for the operation. Reverse operation for removal and then repeat for each iteration. Starting the reamer required using a standard open end wrench to turn it as there isn't enough clearance for a standard ratchet yet. I used a pickle fork between the underside of the cowling and the top of the tool to pry it downwards while turning it so that the reamer could cut enough to finally get a ratchet on it. There is constant interference from that aluminum heater tube such that, as the depth of the cutting increased, I had to use a various combination of shallow and deep sockets, short extensions, and a U-joint to accomplish the task. After about 1/3 of the depth was reached, I was able to use the air ratchet to speed things up.

Prep work included draining the radiator, removal of the heater hose, removed PCV hose and valve (put just the valve back in the hole to keep debris out), remove the brackets for the big connectors under the starter relay, removed the connectors for the starter relay, and moved a few vacuum lines. Pulling #3 COP helps to give a bit better view of the work area. Set to TDC on compression stroke, then rotated crank another 120° to prevent valve damage. Had to remove a skid plate under radiator to get the ratchet on the crank bolt. Rigged a visual indicator consisting of a COP boot, a 2' section of rubber hose, and a nitrile glove (a balloon would also work) to show when #4 was on the compression stroke and was at TDC.

Should have it fixed and buttoned back up later today.