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Time-sert question - plug blow out

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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 08:00 AM
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Time-sert question - plug blow out

I had a plug blowout amd strip the threads on my 2001 f250 XLT 6.8L V10. My battle is with the toughest plug (of course). It's the plug farthest back on the passenger side. I am ashamed to say I don't know what # plug it is.

I've done quite a bit of research on this forum about this problem, and it seems the best, permanent solution is the time-sert kit. The kit claims you don't have to take the head off, which is great.

Question 1: Does anybody know (or has tried) if this kit will work on the plug location I'm referring to? It seems like it was a real tight squeeze just to change the plug.
Question 2: There are two kits available from time sert, a 2/4 valve kit and the 3 valve. I am pretty sure I have the 2 valve because its a 2001, but I'm not sure.

Any suggestions/responses about this kit would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 08:10 AM
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From: laporte in
You have the 2 valve truck. Time sert is your best option
 
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 09:53 AM
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Thanks mikeismadness.

Have you ever used the kit with the plug location I'm referring to?
 
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 07:49 PM
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you got #5 cylinder blown out . Time-sert kit should work on every and each of the cylinder .
Suggestions;
1-Go to V-10 forum , search and find out how-to Timesert , by photos step-by step procedure .(Posted by TMehrkam ?)

2- Go to ++ TIME-SERT Threaded inserts for stripped threads, threaded inserts, thread repair stripped sparkplug's, Ford sparkplug blowouts, threaded inserts threaded, repair stripped threads, stripped threads, inserts threaded inserts, Ford spark plug repair, and read their recommended procedure and tools for the job ( compressor , air-tools ect.)

take your time ,do it right the first time.

Good luck,
 
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Old Apr 6, 2013 | 08:02 AM
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Time-serts are a good product. I had #4 blow out and mechanic used a heli coil to repair. Truck ran bad and when removing plug, that coil came out and made a bigger mess. I found that Time-sert has a Big-sert kit which is oversized. We installed and plug is still good. The bad part was somewhere along the line, the valve got bent. Had to have head taken off anyways. I got to see the insert from the bottom too. That was 3-4 years ago and truck is fine. Knock on wood. Good luck, I know how frustrated you are.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 09:18 AM
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Beyond Frustrated

I took the dive and completed the repair. It was interesting to work on plug #5.

I started the truck to see how it would run, and to my demise, it ran rough. I ran it at 1500 rpms to try and get metal chips, brake cleaner, etc, out of the cylinder. One I did that, it began to run better.

However, when I let it idle, it runs rough for a few seconds and stalls. I took it for a ride, and it runs good when accelerating... just not when at an idle. It likes to be over 1000 rpms.

Does it sound like I clipped a valve when boring, reaming, etc?
 
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Old May 5, 2013 | 07:35 AM
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When I had my blow out somewhere along the line a valve got bent. I blew air in the plug hole while turning engine over slowly and listened to tail pipe. Air never quit so figured valve was bad. I had head pulled off and valve was bent. Replaced valve and runs great. This is when I had a chance to see the Time-Sert from bottom too. Do an air leak down test to confirm. Good Luck
 
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Old May 5, 2013 | 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by libnsvt
I took the dive and completed the repair. It was interesting to work on plug #5.

I started the truck to see how it would run, and to my demise, it ran rough. I ran it at 1500 rpms to try and get metal chips, brake cleaner, etc, out of the cylinder. One I did that, it began to run better.

However, when I let it idle, it runs rough for a few seconds and stalls. I took it for a ride, and it runs good when accelerating... just not when at an idle. It likes to be over 1000 rpms.

Does it sound like I clipped a valve when boring, reaming, etc?
Nope. If you damaged a valve you'd have low compression and the cylinder likely wouldn't fire. You most likely have a vaccum leak from messing around with the #5 cylinders and the maze of cables and vacuum lines back there. Go back over and see what needs to be reconnected, I'm confident that's where your problem lies.

Originally Posted by dzdiggin'dude
When I had my blow out somewhere along the line a valve got bent. I blew air in the plug hole while turning engine over slowly and listened to tail pipe. Air never quit so figured valve was bad. I had head pulled off and valve was bent.
How the heck does THAT happen?
 
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