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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 04:06 PM
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From: west coast canadafishing
bleeding brakes

!995 f350 power stroke diesel srw 4x4 . What is the proper way to flush all the brake fluid from my truck? I do have a Mity vac. brake bleeding system. It uses my air compressor to make vacuum to pull out the old fluid tru the bleeder screws. I know to start bleeding the fluid & air from the farthest [r rear ] then the L rear what i,m not sure of is the next one to bleed [ the anti lock valve] & then the R front & then the L front? I guess I could go to a brake repair place & ask the questions But I thought other folks on this site could benefit from my questions. Thanking you friskyjake
 
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 05:08 PM
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RR,LR,RABS,RF,LF.

Good luck!
 
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 06:07 PM
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i gravity bleed starting at the passenger rear. when all the old fluid is out of the system i close the pass rear and then do the driver rear. then pass front, and lastly driver front.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 10:51 PM
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Finally, after all these years of saying gravity bleed, someone else says it too!! Thanks Tom
 
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 06:24 AM
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it is kind of hard to have someone step on the brake pedal when you are by yourself!!

i have been gravity bleeding brakes for many many years.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 07:57 AM
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I have one of these Ford Three Tab Brake Bleeder 0107 and it works awesome. I have to try gravity bleeding, too. I never had a good experience with a vacuum setup.

Rusty
 
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 10:41 AM
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brake bleeding

Ok so if I have let all the fluid out of the system with all the bleed screws now tight I then fill the master cly. & start the bleeding all over again in the proper order. My concern is if the rabs [anti lock]. if it has internally moved how do you get back to center or where ever it has to be. If it is out of whack won,t it also cause a lite to be active on the dash. Thanks again every one. friskyjake
 
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
it is kind of hard to have someone step on the brake pedal when you are by yourself!!
Isn't that what a snow brush (wedged between the seat and the pedal) is for?.... (Works for testing the brake lights, anyway.)
 
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 01:32 PM
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i use the vehicle behind me to test the brake lights.
if they don't hit me, the lights are working.




























actually, i usually park close enough to something when i back in that i can see the brake light lit when parking, and also in the am when leaving.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by friskyjake
Ok so if I have let all the fluid out of the system with all the bleed screws now tight I then fill the master cly. & start the bleeding all over again in the proper order. My concern is if the rabs [anti lock]. if it has internally moved how do you get back to center or where ever it has to be. If it is out of whack won,t it also cause a lite to be active on the dash. Thanks again every one. friskyjake
I've never heard of emptying it all first. I always added new on top to keep the system from sucking in any air. Seems a little scary to me to let all that air in first and then try to push it back out. I'd be interested in whether others have let it all bleed out before adding new to the master.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 03:26 PM
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same as if you blow a line. the master will gravity bleed out on the ground. it just takes a bit longer to get fluid back through all the lines
 
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 04:45 PM
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I'm with you Dan, I let the new stuff follow the old stuff out.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 05:32 PM
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Are we talking about a brake bleeding on a truck with rabs or a non rabs. [anti rear brake lock]. up? No one answers about that extra valve. I,m sure it will shuttle inside the valve. If not ok but my concern is if it does move how do you make it rite again Thank you again for your ideas. Friskyjake
 
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 06:43 PM
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my 02 still has abs in it, i don't know if it works though. same with the 04.
both of them blew rear lines and bled out. i replaced the lines, cracked open the bleeders and filled the master up with no lights on the dash
 
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