Hello,

I know there is a lot posted in these forums about the Radius Arm in these old beasts, but I could not yet find an answer.

I have a 74 F100, 2WD, 8' Bed vehicle. Are the braces or brackets for the Radius Arms rivited or bolted?

Thanks...Joe

 

Some were bolted some riveted, It seems the later ones were bolted on. OR.... You could just stick your head under the truck and look

 

Gearhead - mine (http://www.beedzncomputers.com/truck/truck.html) are riveted. You CAN cut them out with an air chisel and find replacements on eBay for less than $15.00....

 

Blow the rivets out with a torch and then just replace them with good bolts. From there on out your radius arm bushings will be a SNAP to replace.

 

Well first I'll look under the truck. I also have to fuss with the darn steering unit which leaks to no end. However the leak appears like it is at the top instead of the bottom of the gearbox. I know there is a replacement seal for the top, does that just require disconnecting the steering column, or do I have to yank the whole pump? I'll do that after the Radius Arm Bushings.

So if I have rivets, I can chisel them out with an air chisel. or "blow them them out with a torch?" Well I don't know how to do that without burning my lips or getting my nose all greasy... I am considering buying a decent cutting torch kit, but you have to let me know how to go about "blowing" the rivets out. I do know how to use torches, btw, except on a much smaller scale with electronics and plumbing. I don't have a compressor, so doing the air chisel will be difficult. But they want an awful lot at the shop for that job...too much.

So if I cut or chisel, am I going to have to replace the brackets too? or just the bushings, and most likely the big old nut and key? I'm guessing a pipe wrench will work on the nut if I'm replacing them. I'll spary 'em down the night before.

Just so I don't blow anything up, does the gas line hang around that area too?

Thanks again good people, I appreciate the help.

 

An alterenative to torching or chiseling is to use a 4" grinder. Grind off the heads of the rivets on one side and use a punch to drive them out. It takes quite a bit of "persuasion".

 

Counter to most of the experience indicated in this forum, I had a terrible time trying to chisel those &+@*&% brackets off. Mine were all riveted and one of those rivets is REAL HARD to get to. If you don't have a heavy duty air compressor and you don't know how to use an oxy-acetylene, don't try either of these methods or you will cause yourself a lot of grief. Better to loosen the suspension and pull the arms out of the brackets/bushings. There are a lot of threads here on how to do that. Or... if you really don't want to get that shiny nose all dirty, take it someplace and have it done. It shouldn't be more that $150 or so for both sides. Let us know what you do. Good luck.
jor

 

To get the big nuts off use the "Candle Trick" discussed in the Garage Forum and they will come off easy.

You can drill a rivet out also.

 

Thanks for all the tips and comments. I was underneath tonight repairing a monkey job trans line that was a temporary fix about three months back. Yes the darn things are rivited, and while conversing with my pipe cutter and flaring tool, I noticed that those rivets look REAL stubborn. If I had a lift, I would try the grinding and "gentle persuasion" technique spoken about above. But since there are (8) rivets and I don't have enough of the right kind of gear, I think I will shop for a good price. Unfortunately, the first price I was quoted was about $130 per side. If I can get them both done for $150 or less, it might be worth it to have them done at the shop. But I will also give some thought about drilling them out which could be workable. Otherwise, my last resort will probably be puilling the front end forward.

 

I would use a torch to cut or "blow" the heads off the rivets and then drive them through with a punch and hammer.

I have done this several times and it really isnt too hard.......but a torch is a necessity.

 

From what I am gathering from this thread, I will have to replace the brackets too? Or do we just use the same bracket we cut, blown, grinded, and otherwise beat the ***** out of to remove the rivets?

Thanks for clearing up the torch question. It is true that I want to pick up a good cutting kit. But I'm thinking because I don't have a lift, manuevering a torch while the truck is on stands coud pose a problem in getting it high enough to work comfortably.

 

I'm with Torque on this one.

I changed my bushings on my 79 by removing the nut (NOT easy), and pushing the axle forward. You should remove the top shock nut at the vary least and possibly loosen the coil spring retainer. I jacked up the front of the truck and lowered the wheel onto a car ramp, which helped push the axle forward.

If I were going to remove my brackets (which I might do), I'd grind the heads off the rivets and drill out the rest.

Good luck.

Kevin K.

 

If you grind the heads off you will be able to just punch them through....no drilling necessary. The key is getting the head off the rivet, whether you grind it or use a torch, it doesnt matter.

If you are careful you wont harm the brackets at all.

 

If you choose to move the suspension remember to remove your brake calipers so the hose does not get damaged.

 

i have to agree with torque on this one too.... you can change them without removing the bracket.... that's how i do mine