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Radius Arm Bushing Bracket Question

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Old Jul 2, 2003 | 06:10 PM
  #16  
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From: rocky mt. nc
Radius Arm Bushing Bracket Question

i also opted to leave the brackets in place. when i started to drop the suspension, a little voice said " why don't you replace the axle pivot bushings too ". i'm glad i listened b/c i found out that's where most of my steering problems were coming from.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2003 | 08:39 AM
  #17  
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From: missouri
Radius Arm Bushing Bracket Question

Originally posted by Native Gearhead

So if I cut or chisel, am I going to have to replace the brackets too? or just the bushings, and most likely the big old nut and key? I'm guessing a pipe wrench will work on the nut if I'm replacing them. I'll spary 'em down the night before.

no if you don't hurt the bracket It doesn't have to be replaced, unless the truck has ran so long with the rubber wore out that the arn itself has rubbed a GROOVE in the bracket if so you will need to replace the bracket , my 93 explorer did this I tried just replacing the bushing 3 months later it was out again this time I fixed the bracket it been 2 years now!
 
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Old Jun 12, 2022 | 06:25 PM
  #18  
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Hello y'all I got a 94 f150 5.0 extended cab 2wd. My question is how do you know when the radius arm bracket's are bad ? I had new bushings put on it but I still hear and feel the clunk. Any help greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2022 | 06:28 PM
  #19  
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Mine are bolted, but it's a 4x4.
Originally Posted by tellico racing
Some were bolted some riveted, It seems the later ones were bolted on. OR.... You could just stick your head under the truck and look
That would be the one sure way of knowing.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2022 | 02:04 AM
  #20  
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The brackets themselves don't often wear out. But they can loosen up now and then.
But with so much more going on under the front of a truck like that, the only way I can think of to verify something is to test it and do a look-see like was mentioned.

One test we use in 4wd trucks often is to have a helper turn the steering wheel back and forth continuously while you watch every component in the front and rear to see if it's moving where it should not.
Firmer and more solid is better than loose and floppy in any part related to suspension or steering. And using this test you can really see things that are just borderline and hard to see otherwise.

Leave the full weight of the truck on the tires for the moment, and keep the helper turning the wheel until you say stop.
They don't have to turn it all the way either, as just enough to wiggle the tires is usually enough to see just about anything loose up front or in the rear. Usually about a half-turn in both directions.
So engine can be on or off, but engine running gives the helper a little break from hard labor.

With any luck the noise will be repeatable and easy to narrow down during the test procedure.

Paul
 
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