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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 05:21 PM
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cutlersrepairshop's Avatar
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Hello all, and what a great forum you guys have here!!!
I have been looking for almost an hour now and learned tons about the truck I recently purchased. Being a mechanic at a golf course I work mostly on tractors and golf carts. I have done motor swaps and trans swaps on cars as well, and have the tools to do whatever. A friend of mine had a 86 F150 XLT Lariat for sale for 1400. He was in the process of replacing the head gasket and said it would be ready in 2 days. So I bought it, and now I'm over my head. He didn't put it back together properly, and I've had nothing but trouble. (I did get it for 200 less because of this)

The truck will start, however it will not idle. Also, the truck wont go in gear without stalling. I know it has an Edelbrock 600 Carburetor, 351 W motor, and a C6 automatic transmission. I was told the C6's were only manual, but according to the bolt counting method it has 17 and its in that shape!

Here is what I know I don't have:
No vacuum lines are hooked up
No PCV valve
No Smog Pump
Wont Idle
No Kick down Bar/Cable (Don't know which its supposed to have)

So here are my questions:
1) Vacuum diagram anywhere? I looked and couldn't find what I needed exactly
2) Does the PCV need to be installed?
3) Is the smog pump necessary?
4) Where does the kick down bar/cable bolt up on the trans and carburetor.

Any pointers, tips, or direction would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advanced!!
 
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 05:22 PM
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Well right after I found this like... Should fix my vacuum issues! Thanks FTE
Any help with the others would be appreciated


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...vac-lines.html
 
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 05:57 PM
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You can see the C6 kickdown rod there too!

Look for your vacuum diagram on the radiator support or on the drivers side valve cover for the emissions calibration code.

2) YES
3) No. If you do not have emissions inspections, the A.I.R. pump is not a necessity for the engine to run.

Welcome to the forum!
 
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 06:08 PM
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Yes, welcome to FTE. The C6 will get along just fine w/o the kick down rod. I'm running Rusty that way at the moment, and just pull it into 2nd if I need it to downshift.

For vacuum, all you need is:
  • Brake booster
  • HVAC
  • PCV valve
  • Vacuum modulator to C6
  • Vacuum advance
The brake, HVAC, and modulator usually come off of the vacuum tree that screws into the intake manifold. And frequently the HVAC and modulator come off of a plastic manifold on the firewall with one hose to the vacuum tree.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 01:07 PM
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Thank you guys!! I'll be getting to work on it momentarily.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 01:29 PM
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Generally speaking, If you fix all the things that you can SEE are wrong, often the mysterious symptoms tend to disappear. That is the value of keeping things stock,
It gives you a "home base" to return to when things get a little odd.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 03:06 PM
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Well the guy had the throttle cable attached where the kick down bar is supposed to be lol. Can anyone tell me where the trans vacuum line goes. I have three trees
 
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 03:09 PM
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"And frequently the HVAC and modulator come off of a plastic manifold on the firewall with one hose to the vacuum tree."
 
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 04:03 PM
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Does it have an EGR?

If so it needs to be hooked to PORTED vacuum, meaning the EGR should not have any vacuum at idle, have vacuum at partial throttle cruising down the freeway, and no vacuum again under heavy throttle.

If the EGR is receiving vacuum at idle it's open and will cause idle problems.

Oh yeah, also be sure to double check the firing order. If plug wires are crossed it will definitely effect the idle!
 
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