Help removing ignition barrel
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Help removing ignition barrel
As I know all I have todo turn barrel to ON, and insert pin punch into the hole below the barrel. There doesn't seem to be a hole inside the key barrel itself for the pin punch to follow. What am I doing wrong?
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
One, it looks like a R/D Australian made rig right? And your profile says 79, so is it a 79 you are working on right?
On US made trucks have the ignition assembly in the dash and is does NOT look anything like that, see the pic? Your ignition looks like a newer 80's truck?
Are you asking about the "key tumblers" the inner part of the ignition switch?
If that is what we are talking about you will need the actual key and a paper clip or similar diameter pin.
Insert the key, turn to the left (the accessory setting), insert the pin below the key in the small hole, with the pin pushed in you should be able to turn is a little bit more 1/8" and then pull the key and tumblers assembly out.
Install in reverse order. Let me know if I am way off base.
On US made trucks have the ignition assembly in the dash and is does NOT look anything like that, see the pic? Your ignition looks like a newer 80's truck?
Are you asking about the "key tumblers" the inner part of the ignition switch?
If that is what we are talking about you will need the actual key and a paper clip or similar diameter pin.
Insert the key, turn to the left (the accessory setting), insert the pin below the key in the small hole, with the pin pushed in you should be able to turn is a little bit more 1/8" and then pull the key and tumblers assembly out.
Install in reverse order. Let me know if I am way off base.
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This is a Australia based 1980 f100 4x4 custom, not '79. Confused why I'm posted this in pre-80' section, well australia got the dentsides right up to '82. I've never been quite sure which side the decade I should post in but this section seem more appropriated.
Anyway back to the topic. Yes I'm trying to just remove the tumbler, as to match it to a kit to get it all keyed the same. There is no such small pin hole on the tumbler face, only the hole on the bottom of the assembly. The key only turns clockwise (off->acc>on>start).
I've tryed turning the bezel, but it seems to be locked in place. Shining a light into the hole doesn't show any movement when I'm turning the key, but does when I jiggle the bezel. Thoughts?
Anyway back to the topic. Yes I'm trying to just remove the tumbler, as to match it to a kit to get it all keyed the same. There is no such small pin hole on the tumbler face, only the hole on the bottom of the assembly. The key only turns clockwise (off->acc>on>start).
I've tryed turning the bezel, but it seems to be locked in place. Shining a light into the hole doesn't show any movement when I'm turning the key, but does when I jiggle the bezel. Thoughts?
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2014
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From: Chillicothe, IA
Ok, I can probably help, but I need more info. From what I can see in your picture, your ignition switch assembly is similar to what is found on Japanese imports, so it is something that is not seen on ford trucks here in the usa. But more of what might be seen here on a ford probe. easiest way would be to show pics of new tumbler (ie. cylinder). Or give me a part number.
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Welcome to this side of the fence. After some google-ing research it looks like its either a locksmith or the chance of breaking something in the column.
I read that you can drill the locking device out and or flat tip screwdriver the tumblers out, but great way to mess up the insides, anti theft design.
Can't you get a match for the doors cut on the other side of the ignition key? maybe if that key is flat/ no cuts on one side ? Or is it a 5, 6 to 10 pin cut key?
On a 79 I hear we can get a door key cut on one side and the ignition on the other, I think that is how my truck came, one key works both door locks and ignition.
Safe bet is to get the pro lock smith guys to cut you one, most all the suggestions from forums in the newer years, is to do that versus the drill method.
I read that you can drill the locking device out and or flat tip screwdriver the tumblers out, but great way to mess up the insides, anti theft design.
Can't you get a match for the doors cut on the other side of the ignition key? maybe if that key is flat/ no cuts on one side ? Or is it a 5, 6 to 10 pin cut key?
On a 79 I hear we can get a door key cut on one side and the ignition on the other, I think that is how my truck came, one key works both door locks and ignition.
Safe bet is to get the pro lock smith guys to cut you one, most all the suggestions from forums in the newer years, is to do that versus the drill method.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2014
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From: Chillicothe, IA
from the looks of the locking mechanism, it is not the same as the US counterpart. I was a locksmith for 16 years. Might be simpler or might be harder than it is for us. So far, I haven't found squat for australian F100 info. That is why I want pictures.
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I don't have a new tumbler assembly yet, I'm trying to get this one out to work out which tumbler set I needed. Only part numbers I can find is what's pictured. I'll however leave a picture of the whole interior, might help clarify whats located where.
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2014
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From: Chillicothe, IA
Well I figured out how to search google in Aussie. You need to turn key to ACC or position 1. On is the second postion. Another way to do it is to place punch in hole on side of housing or locking mechanism and apply light pressure, turn key and you will feel it depress slightly. Now pull on key and wiggle, barrel should come out. So yes you will want to put punch in hole in your first picture.
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I assume (in your picture) what I'm trying to depress inside the hole is that black strip near the rear of the tumbler? I don't think its there from looking inside it with a light.
As for using that hole, nothing in their depresses. I'm using alot of bloody force on each point tumblers turn just to be sure. Followed with afew light taps of a hammer just to make sure it wasn't stuck. Still wont budge.
As for using that hole, nothing in their depresses. I'm using alot of bloody force on each point tumblers turn just to be sure. Followed with afew light taps of a hammer just to make sure it wasn't stuck. Still wont budge.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2014
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From: Chillicothe, IA
Well, don't be too forceful. Turn key to acc, try pushing in on key, then putting pressure on punch in hole, tap if need be, then pull on key, might need to pry on key a little bit, one thing you dont want to do is break anything, as there are hardened steel pins in face of lock, and you don't want to be drilling it out.
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Well I got the tumbler out, wasn't easy to say the lease. I took the whole assembly off and took to afew locksmith shops, they couldn't get it off either.
Somehow in the process of wiggling and jiggling, it clocked itself 360 from lock right around back to lock, Jamming it
Ended up having to drill it out, several small holes around the end and breaking it down in small pieces. Still can't work out what was holding it in, as the black spring strip was where it was meant to be, just abit flat, I guess from my attempts.
Somehow in the process of wiggling and jiggling, it clocked itself 360 from lock right around back to lock, Jamming it
Ended up having to drill it out, several small holes around the end and breaking it down in small pieces. Still can't work out what was holding it in, as the black spring strip was where it was meant to be, just abit flat, I guess from my attempts.
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Pic: Column shift, A/T or M/T with/without tilt wheel would be the same inre to ignition cylinder. U150 = Bronco.