Heater Core Removal
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New User
Joined: Jul 2013
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Heater Core Removal
Hello all,
I have a heater core leaking in my 1978 F100 and I have no clue how to get at the culprit. Under the hood I can see where the blower motor bolts on and where the heater hoses connect but not much else.
Under the dash I can see the big box and where all the wires and stuff, but no screws or bolts or anything.
Does the whole dashboard need to be removed?
Any help would be greatly appreciated,
Thanks!
I have a heater core leaking in my 1978 F100 and I have no clue how to get at the culprit. Under the hood I can see where the blower motor bolts on and where the heater hoses connect but not much else.
Under the dash I can see the big box and where all the wires and stuff, but no screws or bolts or anything.
Does the whole dashboard need to be removed?
Any help would be greatly appreciated,
Thanks!
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 3,512
Likes: 3
From: Panama City
If you have no AC there are 3 bolts under the hood to remove that will let you drop the whole plenum box, 2 hoses to disconnect, 2electrical connections, and 2 cables to undo under the dash. Theres a thread on here that was started in the last 2-3 days that shows a schematic of everything. Not a big job really.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...wer-motor.html
Thanks to Rich and Mike
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...wer-motor.html
Thanks to Rich and Mike
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 10
I did mine a couple of years ago. Not a huge job but it has its moments. A service manual helps - a lot. As posted, remove the coolant lines, disconnect the blower, remove the cables and drop the heater box. The box is a tight fit, especially the heater hose nipples and firewall. A trick I saw after doing mine is to remove the mounting screws for the lower dash so you can pull it out a little to gain clearance.
Once the box is out its pretty easy to pull the core. The core itself has foam like insulating material around it to seal it in the box. Needless to say, mine was in bad shape after 35+ years. Some 1/4" x 1" (or so) self stick foam from ACE hardware took care of that.
As far as the cores, common replacements are aluminum which should be fine as long as anti-freeze is kept up. I spent a few dollars extra at Rock Auto and got a copper core which should be more durable.
Before I wiggled my heater box out, I did have to take a walk around the shop a couple of times. Patience pays off and I got it done in one evening.
Once the box is out its pretty easy to pull the core. The core itself has foam like insulating material around it to seal it in the box. Needless to say, mine was in bad shape after 35+ years. Some 1/4" x 1" (or so) self stick foam from ACE hardware took care of that.
As far as the cores, common replacements are aluminum which should be fine as long as anti-freeze is kept up. I spent a few dollars extra at Rock Auto and got a copper core which should be more durable.
Before I wiggled my heater box out, I did have to take a walk around the shop a couple of times. Patience pays off and I got it done in one evening.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,267
Likes: 5,822
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Remove the glove box to help a little, spend the money and get the copper heater core.
Might as well replace the blower motor since you have it all apart.....other wise it will quite on you next week. At least that is my luck.
Might as well replace the blower motor since you have it all apart.....other wise it will quite on you next week. At least that is my luck.
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