Hey guys, how hard is it to pull a cab, how long should it take on a good day? I'd like to find a good youtube video on it

 

It can be done in under an hour but half a day is reasonable.

 

Tim, I'll assume your not talking about me and possibly you?? on the 1 hour quote. LOL

 

No, but I've helped do 3 in under an hour. Usually one man takes about 1.25 hours depending on cab configuration.

 

nothing hard about it take lots of pics and write down stuff and mark things. If its your first then half a day to a day maybe two if you are very cautious about it. Time wise will also depend on the tools you have available and where you live. Up here in the north the rusty stuff takes a bit longer. The hardest part if you never have done it is just finding all the darn things to unhook. Once you do you'll look back and say hmm that wasn't bad. Better to double and tripple check as you are lifting to make sure you aren't pulling wires or tearing anything up. After you have done a few esp. the same kind of vehicle as stated I've heard of guys pulling replacing heads gaskets and studs and having it back on in 4-6 hours. its unbelieveable to watch some guys work. When you know extactly where everything is to unhook it goes fast. I can't comment on the quality of the work as none have ever been my truck. If mine ever needs major work on the engine the cab is coming off. I did one for my boss and it is so nice to not have to stand on a platform and stretch all over to reach bolts. The head bolts alone torqing tem down alone will give you a workout I can't image doing that with the cab on

 

Guess I'm getting old. Takes me that long to figure out how many beers it's going to take.

 

OP, why are you pulling the cab? Unless you have access to a lift and feel the need to have the access, most things can be done with the engine in frame and the cab on.

 

 

And just to throw this in .....

 

Mark's two Youtube video posts above, paint a very colourful picture of why I refuse to do any major engine work on these trucks with the cab bolted to the frame.

 

Do these instructions look famliar Mike?

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 641pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=854 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 641pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 30378" width=854><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 114pt" height=152><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow; WIDTH: 641pt; HEIGHT: 114pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl25 height=152 width=854 align=left>Begin by positioning the vehicle onto the hoist where it can be lifted. Roll the vehicle straight backwards just until you can open all four doors without hitting the posts of the hoist. Remove the rear seat (18mm nuts and TX-50 bolts I think). Remove all four door opening scuff plates by simply prying on them gently. Once the rear seat is removed, lift up on the carpet to expose the rear cab mount bolts. You will need a 24mm or 15/16" socket for the bolt on the driver side, and a 21mm or 13/16" socket for the bolt on the passenger side. Once removed, lift up on the carpet until access can be gained to the middle row bolts, just behind the front seats. You will see a rubber grommet plug to remove before you have access to the bolts. Again driver side bolt is 24mm or 15/16" and passenger side is 21mm or 13/16". Remove both the driver and passenger side kick panels. Remove the 10mm bolt securing the steering coupler to the steering column, and once removed, telescope the lower shaft all the way through the firewall. Roll up the carpet on both driver and passenger sides to expose the grommets covering the front cab mount bolts.
Again driver side bolt is 24mm or 15/16" and passenger side is 21mm or 13/16".
Once removed, this concludes everything needed to remove from inside the vehicle. Roll the vehicle forward to position it onto the lift.

</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 13.2pt" height=18><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow; WIDTH: 641pt; HEIGHT: 13.2pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=18 width=854></TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 121.65pt; mso-height-source: userset" height=162><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow; WIDTH: 641pt; HEIGHT: 121.65pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl25 height=162 width=854 align=left>Raise the vehicle in the air to disconnect everything needed underneath. Begin by draining the cooling system (don't forget to remove the coolant degas bottle cap first). Loosen the plastic 19mm or 3/4" radiator drain pet****. Disconnect both front ABS wheel speed sensors at the rearward sides of both front inner fenderwells. Disconnect the ground strap located underneath the vehicle, just behind the passenger side inner fender well (8mm bolt). Disconnect the parking brake cable at the junction just under the driver side framerail. Once done, fish the front cable through the body mount bracket and leave hanging. Disconnect the shifter cable at the transmission manual lever, and the cable mounting bracket and leave hanging. Disconnect the lower rad hose from the radiator. Disconnect the two transmission fluid cooler lines at the radiator (you will need to remove the safety lock plastic clips first, and you'll need the special spring lock coupler tool to disconnect the lines). Remove the two 8mm bolts that secure the power steering fluid cooler to the lower rad support facing the front of the vehicle, and leave the cooler hanging.
Disconnect the transmission fluid cooler lines from the external fluid filter housing on the passenger side of the vehicle.
Remove all plastic pushpins that secure the rubber air deflector to the lower rad support.

</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 13.2pt" height=18><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow; WIDTH: 641pt; HEIGHT: 13.2pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=18 width=854></TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 124.35pt; mso-height-source: userset" height=166><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow; WIDTH: 641pt; HEIGHT: 124.35pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl25 height=166 width=854 align=left>Evacuate the A/C. Remove all the plastic pushpins at the upper rad support, and disconnect the main battery positive cable retaining push clips as well. Working on the passenger side of the vehicle in the engine compartment, disconnect the A/C line at the suction accumulator (one 13mm nut). Remove the one 8mm bolt securing the engine ground strap to the firewall, just behind the MAP sensor. Disconnect the vacuum line for your pulse vacuum hubs. Remove the passenger side battery. Disconnect the main wiring connected to passenger side battery positive cable. Disconnect the ground strap that's connected to the negative battery cable on the passenger side of the vehicle you now have access to, with the battery removed. Disconnect the "squeeze and pull" type connection by the vacuum (yellow with light blue stripe coloured wire). Disconnect the MAP sensor hose from the intake manifold, and move out of the way. Disconnect the heater hose at the passenger side, just below the alternator, where it connects to the metal tube going into the front cover. Disconnect the upper of the two A/C lines at the top of the A/C condensor (one 13mm nut). Remove both hot and cold side charge air cooler tubes (11mm or 7/16" to loosen the clamps). Disconnect the upper rad hose. Remove the two upper rad support brackets (four 8mm bolts in total).</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 13.2pt" height=18><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow; WIDTH: 641pt; HEIGHT: 13.2pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=18 width=854></TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 124.35pt; mso-height-source: userset" height=166><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow; WIDTH: 641pt; HEIGHT: 124.35pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=166 width=854 align=left>Remove the two 8mm bolts that secure the fan shroud to the rad and remove the shroud. Remove the coolant degas bottle (two 8mm bolts). Remove the entire air cleaner assembly (don't forget to remove the airflow restrictor gauge and disconnect the MAF sensor first). Disconnect the main central junction box feed to the driver side battery positive cable. Remove the driver side battery. Remove the battery tray (four 13mm bolts). Disconnect two of the three PCM main connectors (it will be pretty obvious which two). Disconnect the hose at the bottom of the power steering fluid reservoir (make sure you have a drain bucket below before doing this because it will be messy). Disconnect all lines (two I think both 18mm) to the to brake hydroboost, except the rubber hose going to power steering fluid reservoir. Disconnect the one of the two power steering fluid lines to the steering box, the one that connects to the power steering fluid cooler (20mm crow's foot or short line wrench needed). Disconnect the heater hose on the driver side, where it junctions into where it connects to the degas bottle. Disconnect all the electrical connectors on the driver side inner fender well. Position all wiring out of the way, in preparation for cab lifting. Disconnect the three ABS HCU lines at the HCU and fold over (you will know which three I'm talking about by looking at them).
Last, but not least, Remove the front two cab mount nuts on either side of the charge air cooler (18mm).


</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 13.2pt" height=18><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow; WIDTH: 641pt; HEIGHT: 13.2pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=18 width=854></TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 38.4pt" height=51><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow; WIDTH: 641pt; HEIGHT: 38.4pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl25 height=51 width=854 align=left>Reposition hoist arms to the four corners of the cab, and have an assistant operate the lift SLOWLY, while someone else keeps watch on the progress of the lift. As the cab is raised, you will be able to address any forgotten disconnects at this point.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 641pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=854 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 641pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 30378" width=854><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 13.2pt" height=18><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffff99; WIDTH: 641pt; HEIGHT: 13.2pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=18 width=854 align=left>Also:</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 38.4pt" height=51><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffff99; WIDTH: 641pt; HEIGHT: 38.4pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl25 height=51 width=854 align=left>Of course the amount of cab bolts differ depending on cab config. Crew cabs have 8 bolts and the rear seat DO need to be removed. Reg and ext cabs have 6 bolts and the reg cab can be accessed by tilting the seat forward, and the extended cabs just lift the backrest to the rear seat out.</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 52.8pt" height=70><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffff99; WIDTH: 641pt; HEIGHT: 52.8pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=70 width=854 align=left>Update to the method on trucks with crew cab body configurations:
Instead of removing the rear seat (which can be awkward and heavy, especially the ones equipped with a utility tray underneath), unbolt both front seats so that the carpet can be flexed just enough to access the grommet and the middle row cab bolts.

</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

Now, just who's instructions might those be Mark?

 

Amen, brother, Amen.

How long does it take you to pull a cab, Mike......if you're really motivated?

 

I haven't needed to pull a cab on a Super Duty F-Series trucks in AGES. But assuming you are referring to a 6.0L F-Series CCSB 4X4 ESOF truck, I will say between one and a half, to two hours, moving at a turtle's pace.