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I have the stock rods, but I accidentally got the rods and caps, and directions they go mixed up, and don't know if this can be fixed by machining the rods or would I have to buy new connecting rods?
Are they not marked? The engine I just scrapped had identifying letters stamped on the flat edge of the rod and cap to help you keep them matched up and oriented correctly... but that was a '94 factory turbo engine. I guess the NA rods must not have that.
Honestly I haven't checked, engine and truck are at a buddy's house. I know some engines (gas) have arrows pointing which direction to face rods towards front of block, would having a machine shop weaken/take away power capablilties of rods? I found some rods on summits racing but not sure if those will or won't hold up as good as the factory rods.
I don't know what Summit is selling, but I would stick with stock rods. They are tried and true and are ~not a weak point of our engines. Check your parts. They might very well be marked. One thing not yet mentioned here is that IDI's benefit greatly from balancing. If you are building your engine for power, be sure to have that done before final assembly.
Stop worrying about rods, unless you have found a p pump to use for fuel. The stock rods are very stout, and are not known to be a weakness. My motor bounces off of it's rev limiter constantly, and I have stock rods that are lightened and balanced(less material than stock, ground down) and also the n/a caps and rods have letters that match them together.
I don't know what Summit is selling, but I would stick with stock rods. They are tried and true and are ~not a weak point of our engines. Check your parts. They might very well be marked. One thing not yet mentioned here is that IDI's benefit greatly from balancing. If you are building your engine for power, be sure to have that done before final assembly.
Good point. Mine is a bit shaky after reassembly. The only reason I didn't do it is because I would have had to have it shipped to the mainland to get it balanced. I rode in NMB2's and it was balanced it was pretty nice how smooth it was.
The rods and caps should have numbers stamped on them indicating where and how they go. Not to sound overly condecending... but why would you tear an engine apart if you didnt know what you were doing? Stock rods should be fine to 500-600whp / 5000rpm.
You can get them back together no problem...They all should have marks on them like the ones in my build thread Flickr Page...Flickr: racer30sprint's Photostream.....
check out my pictures of my 7.3 build or look at this one pic of a NA rod http://www.flickr.com/photos/racer30/8573150441/