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1997 F-250 powerstroke 4x4 with a E4OD trans. The truck has 208,000 miles but the trans only has about 80,000 on a rebuild. I just pulled it out of the weeds where it's been sitting for about 5yrs. The only issue I'm having is the transmission gears itself down when I'm slowing down or coming to a stop. It doesn't do it all the time but when it does, it does it real abruptly. It also holds the gears longer than it should on occasion too. Sometimes I really have to wind it out before it'll shift out but, other times it shifts out perfect. The fluid is full and clean. Any ideas what could cause this and what can I do to remedy it? I'm thinking of putting some Lucas in there to see if that helps. Any other suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Yeah this is a common issue, this trans is 100% computer controlled and the computer is increasing line pressure and holding gears longer because it's getting inconsistent or no input from one or more of the critical sensors.. TPS, VSS, MLPS. Pull codes to see what's up.
I've already hooked up a code reader to it when I first got it out of the weeds and running to see if it could tell me why the ABS was on. It showed no codes at all.
Physically inspect your PCM with a flashlight and a magnifying glass make sure there is no obvious damage. Check the connections for the same. Lube all your linkages, TV arm etc. (TV arm controls kick down, if it is sticky....) If it was in the tall grass for 5 years you could have a bunch of stuff in the linkages. Hell, after 5 years you might have a dead squirrel in your air intake or some such nonsense that would certainly mess up your MAF sensor! did you try the code reader at both inspection points? I had a kick down issue on my 96, it would be slow to kick down going up hill in 3rd gear, then kick down hard enough that i thought I had a tranny issue. Lubing the heck out of my linkages and replacing the air filter more regularly took care of it, not sure why but it did.
I've already hooked up a code reader to it when I first got it out of the weeds and running to see if it could tell me why the ABS was on. It showed no codes at all.
Well, something is up right there, you should get a 111 code. No code at all indicates a lack of connection or a computer problem (could be bad computer or bad connections to the computer).
Physically inspect your PCM with a flashlight and a magnifying glass make sure there is no obvious damage. Check the connections for the same. Lube all your linkages, TV arm etc. (TV arm controls kick down, if it is sticky....) If it was in the tall grass for 5 years you could have a bunch of stuff in the linkages. Hell, after 5 years you might have a dead squirrel in your air intake or some such nonsense that would certainly mess up your MAF sensor! did you try the code reader at both inspection points? I had a kick down issue on my 96, it would be slow to kick down going up hill in 3rd gear, then kick down hard enough that i thought I had a tranny issue. Lubing the heck out of my linkages and replacing the air filter more regularly took care of it, not sure why but it did.
The OP's E4OD transmission is 100% electronic controlled, there is no TV cable/arm/linkage.
I've already hooked up a code reader to it when I first got it out of the weeds and running to see if it could tell me why the ABS was on. It showed no codes at all.
You can't read ABS codes thru the EEC Test connector. There should be a separate ABS Test connector somewhere.
And yeah you should've gotten the 111 code from the EEC (NOT the ABS, you ARE referring to the EEC test codes, right?) which indicates System Pass. I read on here that certain computers (I think with the A9L code) have a problem with leaking capacitors. Actually ANY capacitor, especially the electrolytic type, will go bad with age, so it wouldn't hurt to crack that biatch open and eyeball the board and components anyway.
Hey guys, sorry it's been so long since I posted. I had some things come up.
Anyway, I haven't done anything to the truck as of yet. I only drive it about a mile a day for work. I just wanted to add a couple of other things that I have noticed about it.
It does still gear itself really hard when I'm slowing down and sometimes it shifts out really hard too, but not all the time. The ABS light is on. I checked the sensor on top of the rear diff and it was clean as a button and the connectors looked good, so I put it back in. But the main thing now is,,,,I drove it the other day for about 40-50 miles to meet someone. I didn't turn the truck off when I got there because I wasn't going to be there but for just a second. When I went to leave, the truck right into reverse like it should but when I dropped into drive, it did nothing. I revved it up and still nothing. I then pulled it down into 1st and gassed on it and it barely tried to move. I put it back in reverse and it went right in like it should. So I put it back in drive and nothing. I finally just put it in 1st and gassed on it pretty hard and it started to move slowly. It finally got to moving fast enough to put it up into 2nd and then into drive. Once it got into drive, it was fine. I made the whole trip back without incident, but I never took it out of drive either. However I did stop at a few stop signs and redlights, but it shifted out like it should, without slipping or anything. Once I got it back home and parked, just for s**ts and giggles, I put it back in drive and nothing. It would go right into reverse but not into any forward gear. I cut the truck off and restarted, still nothing but reverse. I went back out a couple of hours later and cranked it back up and it worked like it should, forward and reverse. The fluid is full and clean. I'm just thinking it's getting hot or something. The trip I made was 95% interstate and I was wasn't pulling or hauling anything. Not sure why it would've gotten hot. I did find out recently that prior to the truck sitting, it spent a few years working in a gravel pit. I washed the radiator and coolers and all out with a water hose but I don't know if the cooler lines could possibly be clogged. My scanner still isn't showing any codes, so the only step I know to take now is blow out the trans cooler lines. I sure don't want to mess this trans up if I can keep from it.
So I put it back in drive and nothing. I finally just put it in 1st and gassed on it pretty hard and it started to move slowly.
Don't do that. If you didn't have damage to the transmission itself before, you will soon if you keep doing that. Slipping means the clutches ain't engaging 100%, which will burn them up. Clutches are applied using hydraulic pressure from the pump, which is known as line pressure, and on this trans line pressure is controlled by the computer using a regulator valve.
I still say you check for codes again. If you don't get at least a 111 then you might have a problem with the computer. Which means the transmission problems could damn well be caused by the computer itself and there's really nothing wrong with the actual transmission.
Of course it could also just be that you have crud on the connector pins where the code reader connects, so try cleaning them first and look over the wiring real good.
Yeah, I was well aware of it not being a good idea to be gassing on it while it's slipping. But giving the circumstances I was in, I didn't have a choice. I checked the codes again this morning and nothing. I got a light and looked at the connectors and everything looks good. The code reader does "beep" when I plug it in and it lights up, so I know it's getting power. However I am aware that it could be the computer. How do I check that?
Guys...7.3 PSDs cannot have their transmission codes pulled like the gas jobs. All 7.3 PSDs are EEC-V OBD-II systems. Only a Ford scan tool, or other high end tool is capable of retrieving transmission codes.
They also use an integrated TPS pedal assembly. If the pedal/TPS were bad, the engine wouldn't run correctly.
When you put it in drive and it won't move, does the engine free rev like it was in neutral, or does it load up like the truck is tied to a 30,000 pound anchor? If it's the latter, I suspect you have a wiring issue to your transmission. If an E4OD has a wiring fault, it will default to 4th gear in drive, or 2nd gear in manual 1st.